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Power steering leak wk

569 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  keetonf
Hey so my wife's Jeep is oozing ps fluid from the line that goes from the reservoir to the pump.

Started thinking I might need to replace the pump, but figured I'd take it apart where it's leaking. I'm a YouTube mechanic so I'm not a super mechanic but can usually figure most issues out on my own, albeit sometimes the hard way.

So I took off the nipple or whatever for the inlet and the red o ring looks like it's in good shape, not cracked or brittle or anything, so I cleaned it all up, put it back together, still leaks. Figure if I can replace the o ring and save $200 I'll try that, but I'm not sure the material or where to get a special o ring, saw online might be polyacrylate or some such. Haven't put this on yet as I'm waiting to pick up the kid from school, but wondering if anyone has any input on whether a regular black nitrile o ring will hold up. It is a bit thicker so I'm not sure if it'll seat properly. Seems kinda silly there's only one bolt holding it on too, seems like two bolts would hold it down better.

Anyway besides that I'm wondering the best way to flush the ps fluid, the wife bought some regular ps fluid and put it in, and from what I've read online it needs this special $20/qt stuff.

Also if there are any air bleed fittings or anything to get the air out of the system.

Also if it's normal for the reservoir to be pressurized. Seen conflicting info on other forums, some say vented caps get plugged others say they've owned every Jeep and never had pressure, others still say yeah it's normal.

I'll try to pop this back together when I get home and see if it still leaks. If it does, I figure I'll try some rtv as a temp fix. Just broke af right after replacing the damn radiator and Xmas shopping and all that.

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Hey so my wife's Jeep is oozing ps fluid from the line that goes from the reservoir to the pump.

Started thinking I might need to replace the pump, but figured I'd take it apart where it's leaking. I'm a YouTube mechanic so I'm not a super mechanic but can usually figure most issues out on my own, albeit sometimes the hard way.

So I took off the nipple or whatever for the inlet and the red o ring looks like it's in good shape, not cracked or brittle or anything, so I cleaned it all up, put it back together, still leaks. Figure if I can replace the o ring and save $200 I'll try that, but I'm not sure the material or where to get a special o ring, saw online might be polyacrylate or some such. Haven't put this on yet as I'm waiting to pick up the kid from school, but wondering if anyone has any input on whether a regular black nitrile o ring will hold up. It is a bit thicker so I'm not sure if it'll seat properly. Seems kinda silly there's only one bolt holding it on too, seems like two bolts would hold it down better.

Anyway besides that I'm wondering the best way to flush the ps fluid, the wife bought some regular ps fluid and put it in, and from what I've read online it needs this special $20/qt stuff.

Also if there are any air bleed fittings or anything to get the air out of the system.

Also if it's normal for the reservoir to be pressurized. Seen conflicting info on other forums, some say vented caps get plugged others say they've owned every Jeep and never had pressure, others still say yeah it's normal.

I'll try to pop this back together when I get home and see if it still leaks. If it does, I figure I'll try some rtv as a temp fix. Just broke af right after replacing the damn radiator and Xmas shopping and all that.
The reason for Most of the conflicting information is because it depends on what engine you have .. the 5.7 and CRD have a hydraulic engine cooling fan that runs off the ps pump..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Gotcha, I have the 5.7.

And the black o ring is too thick and doesn't seat.

Also scratch my rtv idea because Alaska is cold and apparently rtv won't set right in the cold.

So how the hell do I even go about finding the special o ring?

I typically stay away from dealerships but I suppose I'll see if they happen to have one or know more about how to find one.
 

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Yeah. This one’s dealer only as is the power steering pump that you will need real soon if you drive around with PS fluid mix.
if the fan goes this gets even more expensive. I’d hurry and bleed that system quickly and refill it with the Mopar stuff. There was some recent thread saying you can’t get the Mopar any longer. In any case you can’t mix the Mopar with just ATF or whatever they sell you at the Pep Boys. That’s gonna kill the pump. Ask me how I know.

Best of luck
—Roland
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah. This one’s dealer only as is the power steering pump that you will need real soon if you drive around with PS fluid mix.
if the fan goes this gets even more expensive. I’d hurry and bleed that system quickly and refill it with the Mopar stuff. There was some recent thread saying you can’t get the Mopar any longer. In any case you can’t mix the Mopar with just ATF or whatever they sell you at the Pep Boys. That’s gonna kill the pump. Ask me how I know.

Best of luck
—Roland
Luckily it hasn't run long with the other ps fluid. Radiator blew like a day later so it's pretty much been sitting since.

Plus the ps fluid connection to the fan on the bottom was loose af, so it was just pissing out, I'm assuming most of the old fluid is gone, haven't looked up the actual capacity yet.

Probably went through about 2qts of the good ps fluid while figuring everything out and the wife said she only put a little of the other stuff in. But to be safe I'll flush it all anyway, assuming I don't end up having to buy a pump.

I found pumps at local parts stores although none in stock locally. Also available at rock auto for half the price, but shipping sucks to AK. Really hoping I can just get an o ring and that fixes it. I'd happily pay $20 for an o ring at this point. Working on the car out in 0-10 degree weather sucks lol
 

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Something amiss here , the line from reservoir is under no pressure apart from the weight of the oil in the reservoir which is about a litre give or take .
The pump is pulling oil from reservoir under suction so there should at least be no leak with engine running.
The oil you require is CHF which is central hydraulic fluid , search online on Jeep forums and you will find mention of it.
Used it in my UK 06 3.0crd GC when I changed my pump.
 

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Gotcha, I have the 5.7.

And the black o ring is too thick and doesn't seat.

Also scratch my rtv idea because Alaska is cold and apparently rtv won't set right in the cold.

So how the hell do I even go about finding the special o ring?

I typically stay away from dealerships but I suppose I'll see if they happen to have one or know more about how to find one.
Though I don't know if it will actually help in this situation, use Permatex "the right stuff" if you want RTV to cure in the cold. They have a 90min and a 1 min return to service. Just warm the parts up a little with a hairdryer and dry any humidity off first.

I agree with Dougdarri , but for a second PS fluid option, i use https://www.amazon.com/Triax-POWERF...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Here is the factory PS bleed procedure as well for when you're ready.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Something amiss here , the line from reservoir is under no pressure apart from the weight of the oil in the reservoir which is about a litre give or take .
The pump is pulling oil from reservoir under suction so there should at least be no leak with engine running.
The oil you require is CHF which is central hydraulic fluid , search online on Jeep forums and you will find mention of it.
Used it in my UK 06 3.0crd GC when I changed my pump.
I was kind of wondering that at one point actually. So maybe the pump is bad? I don't know mechanically how it what breaks inside the pump, but for it to be oozing out of the "in" side struck me as not right, because it should be sucking or pulling... Then that plus the pressure in the reservoir when I pop it open. I did notice I definitely have to crack the seal at the lid, otherwise the pressure is enough to keep pushing fluid through the intake at the pump which made I big mess the first time I tried to take it off.

Though I don't know if it will actually help in this situation, use Permatex "the right stuff" if you want RTV to cure in the cold. They have a 90min and a 1 min return to service. Just warm the parts up a little with a hairdryer and dry any humidity off first.

I agree with Dougdarri , but for a second PS fluid option, i use https://www.amazon.com/Triax-POWERFLUID-450-SPEC-Hydro-Pneumatic/dp/B07WHTFN7F/ref=sr_1_19_sspa?crid=3OWOJ4HTXU1T2&keywords=triax&qid=1669728697&sprefix=triax,aps,201&sr=8-19-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzT1I4RVdFSUhHNk9RJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTA5MTY0NlA2REtIOFlYR0MxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NTkyNTQyMjA5VVRaVko2NzJaJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Here is the factory PS bleed procedure as well for when you're ready.

Well I might try that while I'm waiting for a new pump. Sounds like I'll probably have to order one if I've got pressure where it shouldn't be...

And this is the stuff I've been using, I found on another forum that it matches the part number for the original fluid that isn't sold anymore. Without looking at details, the cost is the same as that Amazon link, $20/ quart.
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I was kind of wondering that at one point actually. So maybe the pump is bad? I don't know mechanically how it what breaks inside the pump, but for it to be oozing out of the "in" side struck me as not right, because it should be sucking or pulling... Then that plus the pressure in the reservoir when I pop it open. I did notice I definitely have to crack the seal at the lid, otherwise the pressure is enough to keep pushing fluid through the intake at the pump which made I big mess the first time I tried to take it off.




Well I might try that while I'm waiting for a new pump. Sounds like I'll probably have to order one if I've got pressure where it shouldn't be...

And this is the stuff I've been using, I found on another forum that it matches the part number for the original fluid that isn't sold anymore. Without looking at details, the cost is the same as that Amazon link, $20/ quart.
There will always be pressure in the reservoir.. At least mine has always been like that for the for the 12-13 yrs I've owned it and it makes sense since it's a "hydraulic" system and not just a PS pump. Generally when these pumps go they start making a lot of noise and your PS will be noticeably poor and the cooling fan will also suffer., so I would say get it all back together and bled and see if the cooling fan turns a little and the PS works. If the fan is turning then the pump is pumping.., but don't expect too much fan action in winter. Mine barely moves in winter .

I've seen people using that Lubegaurd around here. It does spec MS10838 so you're probably good.
 

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There will always be pressure in the reservoir.. At least mine has always been like that for the for the 12-13 yrs I've owned it and it makes sense since it's a "hydraulic" system and not just a PS pump. Generally when these pumps go they start making a lot of noise and your PS will be noticeably poor and the cooling fan will also suffer., so I would say get it all back together and bled and see if the cooling fan turns a little and the PS works. If the fan is turning then the pump is pumping.., but don't expect too much fan action in winter. Mine barely moves in winter .

I've seen people using that Lubegaurd around here. It does spec MS10838 so you're probably good.

Cool, I mean in the sense that I'm a frugal miserly bastard I'll make damn sure to try everything before unnecessarily replacing something, but the wife also said no problems with power steering at all when it was last driven. The only thing, is in the mornings it is a bit noisy, but I searched that and found that it is generally normal because the pump or something in the system restricts flow when it's cold, and then the noise goes away after it's warmed up.

So I'll check with the dealership for the special o ring, and ask about price for a replacement pump anyway while I'm there. Then if they don't have/can't get the o ring I'll probably try the quick cure rtv with a hair dryer. We have a specialty rubber place here in town too, maybe they'll have orings, not sure who else would have anything other than the regular black nitrile.

Unless anyone has experience with one, I'm hesitant to order a power steering seal replacement kit, pictures are unclear and items included are not listed or named. I figure it's probably seals for stuff down the line.
 

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Cool, I mean in the sense that I'm a frugal miserly bastard I'll make damn sure to try everything before unnecessarily replacing something, but the wife also said no problems with power steering at all when it was last driven. The only thing, is in the mornings it is a bit noisy, but I searched that and found that it is generally normal because the pump or something in the system restricts flow when it's cold, and then the noise goes away after it's warmed up.

So I'll check with the dealership for the special o ring, and ask about price for a replacement pump anyway while I'm there. Then if they don't have/can't get the o ring I'll probably try the quick cure rtv with a hair dryer. We have a specialty rubber place here in town too, maybe they'll have orings, not sure who else would have anything other than the regular black nitrile.

Unless anyone has experience with one, I'm hesitant to order a power steering seal replacement kit, pictures are unclear and items included are not listed or named. I figure it's probably seals for stuff down the line.
I would avoid stealerships at all accounts, did you have a look at this o-ring kit, they have al kind of assortments and sizes and it's pretty cheap:
boeray 24 Size 740 pcs Nitrile Rubber NBR O-Ring Gasket Ring Assortment Kits Thickness 1.5mm 2.4mm 3.1mm : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

cheers :)
 

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There is pressure in the reservoir on my 06 3.0crd GC but it’s just a pop noise when the cap is taken off to check level with engine stopped and the engine hot . I think its just expansion as the oil is hot , it does not do it when engines cold or part warm.
On the 3.0crd if you unplug the engine temp sensor the fan will run at full speed , I do not know if this trick works on the 5.7 though.
If you change the pump be aware there is some float on the shaft in and out of about 3mm and this is normal , when refitting pulley on new pump if you put pulley on shaft to far do not be tempted to hold pump pulley in one hand and try to hit shaft with hammer to get pulley back where it should be as doing this will break the pump casting on rear of pump …. a lump the size of your thumbnail will break off as the shaft float allows the shaft to move and break it off.
When I changed my pump on my diesel I had removed reservoir so had about just over a litre of oil to replace , I did not drain system just topped it back up and then put a vacuum on it with a round rubber door stop that had a screw hole through it and use my engine oil suction pump to draw vacuum on the system with the fan running flat out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would avoid stealerships at all accounts, did you have a look at this o-ring kit, they have al kind of assortments and sizes and it's pretty cheap:
boeray 24 Size 740 pcs Nitrile Rubber NBR O-Ring Gasket Ring Assortment Kits Thickness 1.5mm 2.4mm 3.1mm : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

cheers :)
Yeah I avoid them usually. Managed to avoid them today by calling our Rubber specialty warehouse, who referred me to a hydraulic shop and although it wasn't a red silicone or whatever o ring, they did have a regular black one that fit about perfect and I got it to seat.

Let it run for about 30 mins and no leaks, drive it up to the gas station and looks like it's holding. I'll guess I'll just have to hope the nitrile o ring holds up for a while. Hopefully at least till summer when it's warmer and easier to work on things.

There is pressure in the reservoir on my 06 3.0crd GC but it’s just a pop noise when the cap is taken off to check level with engine stopped and the engine hot . I think its just expansion as the oil is hot , it does not do it when engines cold or part warm.
On the 3.0crd if you unplug the engine temp sensor the fan will run at full speed , I do not know if this trick works on the 5.7 though.
If you change the pump be aware there is some float on the shaft in and out of about 3mm and this is normal , when refitting pulley on new pump if you put pulley on shaft to far do not be tempted to hold pump pulley in one hand and try to hit shaft with hammer to get pulley back where it should be as doing this will break the pump casting on rear of pump …. a lump the size of your thumbnail will break off as the shaft float allows the shaft to move and break it off.
When I changed my pump on my diesel I had removed reservoir so had about just over a litre of oil to replace , I did not drain system just topped it back up and then put a vacuum on it with a round rubber door stop that had a screw hole through it and use my engine oil suction pump to draw vacuum on the system with the fan running flat out.
Good info I'll keep in mind if I do end up having to replace the pump. The fan was at least working, I didn't play with the temp sensor but at least it's moving for now.


Thanks for the help guys, problem solved for now.
 
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