I tried that using my other vehicle, and then also using my 800A jump box. Still same issue.Have you tried starting it with jumper wires and the car of your friendly neighbour ?
I know you stated the battery is good but maybe it doesn't have enough cranking power left.
Don't know how old it is.
How would a bad cable cause circuit breaker type symptoms? The power always comes back, but it just never seems to be able to start, and then it always temporarily loses all electrical power. I'm still learning electrical diag, so an explanation would be appreciated.Put a jumper cable from the battery negative to engine block but not where the factory cable attaches. If it starts then check the cable for voltage drop.
Loose connection at the block with oil, corrosion, etc causes the pop then the connection cools off and suddenly it’s ready to go till you hit the key.How would a bad cable cause circuit breaker type symptoms? The power always comes back, but it just never seems to be able to start, and then it always temporarily loses all electrical power. I'm still learning electrical diag, so an explanation would be appreciated.
Okay. I will give that a try. I'll keep this thread updated.Loose connection at the block with oil, corrosion, etc causes the pop then the connection cools off and suddenly it’s ready to go till you hit the key.
It’s an expansion then contraction thing. Aside from that, a seized motor could cause the ASD relay to pop open. Anti-theft or radio hooked up wrong can even trigger it.
The most common one is corrosion between the clamp and battery post. Lead oxide (lead rust) is one of the worst things to pass power through. It’s better at insulation when heated up than allowing power out. It sometimes turns into a giant diode or circuit breaker-like connection. It will sometimes work when dry for a couple days.
The best test is remove the battery clamps and buff up the contact surfaces. 9 out of ten times it will be the positive terminal to post. I used to have a video on it posted but they all disappeared in 2016.
I am at a loss because I cannot seem to find the right info. Alternator correct and good. Battery charged and good. Starter correct and good. Every single time I try to start this 1996 ZJ 5.2, it clicks once, sometimes twice, and then all power is cut. I let it rest for sometimes 2 minutes, and then sometimes 45, and power will come back. Point is power goes away when I try to start it, and then it eventually comes back. Where is this breaker that keeps popping? It doesn't seem like wiring connections would be causing this problem. I'm at a loss, and I'm just trying to drive this out to work on someone else's car....
When you check with a good meter, there is almost no load, it's in the megohms, to drag the voltage down. so it's roughly equivalent to checking right across the battery terminals.I'll add that I checked the resistance between the outside of the battery terminals and the battery posts, and there is no electrical resistance. I checked that there is 12.5 volts being supplied to the fuse box as well.