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Plenum repair torque wrench question

2016 Views 27 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  brewcity1
Hey guys...I will be doing the plenum repair over Memorial day weekend, and am looking for the correct wrench.
What type of Torque wrench will I need for this? I know it needs to be in inch lbs and not foot lbs...but I am not sure what type of Torque wrench I need?
Is it 1/4 or 3/8...and how far up do I need the Torque to go for the repair? Will 0-150 be fine?
Does anyone have a recommendation on the type? These things are wicked expensive!
Thanks for the help with this...I really appreciate it.
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Get a harbor freight inch lbs torque wrench for $20.. And make sure you get a 3/8 adapter for it.. I didnt realize it had one of those small tip and i had to run to the store to get an adapter to fit my sockets AFTER i put my plenum back on and the rtv was drying. Max torque you need to go too is 144 inch lbs

Mine torqued fine, and hasnt leaked and its been 2 weeks now, only thing is it low end is 20 inch lbs.. you are suppose to start at 12 inch lbs.. i just started at 20 and it was fine.. It doesnt really "CLICK" at low torques but when the arm moves thats when it clicks

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html
Get a harbor freight inch lbs torque wrench for $20.. And make sure you get a 3/8 adapter for it.. I didnt realize it had one of those small tip and i had to run to the store to get an adapter to fit my sockets AFTER i put my plenum back on and the rtv was drying. Max torque you need to go too is 144 inch lbs

Mine torqued fine, and hasnt leaked and its been 2 weeks now, only thing is it low end is 20 inch lbs.. you are suppose to start at 12 inch lbs.. i just started at 20 and it was fine.. It doesnt really "CLICK" at low torques but when the arm moves thats when it clicks

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html
Thanks SO much for this info...I really appreciate it! :thumbsup:
Cant I just get a 3/8 torque wrench instead of the 1/4 and forget the adapter?
2
No the 3/8 on their website is the ft lbs one.. The inch lbs one is the smaller 1/4 one sadly.. Just get an adapter from advance auto parts for $3, and youll need a 6 inch extension as well obviously. As i said about the clicking it doesnt really click until your at like 100 inch lbs + so just go slowely when tightening and use your fingers to tighten it not your hand/arm strength and watch the arm when it clicks inward thats the "click".. Just start at 20 inch lbs, then go to 24, then 36-48 and so forth..

You do have the torque sequences right ? Get a sharpie and mark your pan like the TSB shows you for each bolt so you know which one is bolts 1 -2 -3 -4 ect.. Or just print out the papers and do it. Also when you torque down the main intake bolts use some black rtv on the threads because supposedly oil can get through the threads and go up and on your engine. And toss those rubber gaskets that you put on the front and back of the manifold.. Use A TON of rtv in their place.. well thats what i did anyway some people use the rubber gaskets and rtv together.. I also put a very thin amount like paper thin amount of rtv on both sides of the intake gasket where the water jackets are.. I read pretty much everywhere online for any car that this is a good thing to do... Ratmonkey disagree's.. but i did it anyway.. Dont use RTV on the exhaust and intake holes, and dont use any rtv on the pan gasket.. rtv is bad for the engine and 02 sensors. You also might want to purchase a cheap shop vaccume from kmart or sears for $30.. Trust me eve tho you put rags in the lifter gally you will get dirt, old gasket, and **** inside there so you need to vaccume it up.. and also get 5 quarts of cheapo walmart oil because coolant will get into the engine.. so drain it when your done and fill it with the cheap oil and drive it around for a bit then drain it again and fill with your normal oil.

Oh and dont use any kind of paper in the coolant jackets (to keep dirt from getting in them) use an old rag.. I use news paper not thinking it would turn to pulp and i couldnt get it out and while trying i pushed it into my heads.. I had to block the holes and put my mouth on one and blow hard to push the pulp blob out.. lol MMM what else... oh and when your done i would make a oil catch can for the pcv valve.. Go to lowes.. go to the tool section and purchase one of those air compressor filters for $25 or was it $35 i forgot.. Remove the 5 micron filter from it, and go to the dollar store and get some of those metal scrub pad things and stuff the plastic tube with them.. and use rtv on the hole on the bottom of the tube to block it up so air doesnt get sucked through it.. Then get like 3 feet of fuel line tubing and some zip ties and hook it up to your pcv system... This is how much oil my catch can caught after only 4 days thats like 1-2 teespoons right there.. I did this because i noticed after i fixed my intake i looked inside and it was getting oily getting.. youd be amazed hwo much oil gets in there from the pcv..





Oh and I suggest you get a try and lable the bolts you remove like alternator, a/c compressor ect and also i would take a picture of each bolt you remove and its hole because some are long some are short and i garuntee you will forget which long bolt goes where and which short goes where.. Get felpro intake gaskets, and i suggest you get a new thermostat, new thermostat housing, new thermostat gasket, and new throttlebody gasket as well.. and a new upper radiator hose and the small 3 inch hose between the waterpump and intake manifold.. Trust me on this. They dont sell 5.9 upper radiator hoses just get the 5.2 and cut the hose for your low speed fan sensor thingy
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No the 3/8 on their website is the ft lbs one.. The inch lbs one is the smaller 1/4 one sadly.. Just get an adapter from advance auto parts for $3, and youll need a 6 inch extension as well obviously. As i said about the clicking it doesnt really click until your at like 100 inch lbs + so just go slowely when tightening and use your fingers to tighten it not your hand/arm strength and watch the arm when it clicks inward thats the "click".. Just start at 20 inch lbs, then go to 24, then 36-48 and so forth..

You do have the torque sequences right ? Get a sharpie and mark your pan like the TSB shows you for each bolt so you know which one is bolts 1 -2 -3 -4 ect.. Or just print out the papers and do it. Also when you torque down the main intake bolts use some black rtv on the threads because supposedly oil can get through the threads and go up and on your engine. And toss those rubber gaskets that you put on the front and back of the manifold.. Use A TON of rtv in their place.. well thats what i did anyway some people use the rubber gaskets and rtv together.. I also put a very thin amount like paper thin amount of rtv on both sides of the intake gasket where the water jackets are.. I read pretty much everywhere online for any car that this is a good thing to do... Ratmonkey disagree's.. but i did it anyway.. Dont use RTV on the exhaust and intake holes, and dont use any rtv on the pan gasket.. rtv is bad for the engine and 02 sensors. You also might want to purchase a cheap shop vaccume from kmart or sears for $30.. Trust me eve tho you put rags in the lifter gally you will get dirt, old gasket, and **** inside there so you need to vaccume it up.. and also get 5 quarts of cheapo walmart oil because coolant will get into the engine.. so drain it when your done and fill it with the cheap oil and drive it around for a bit then drain it again and fill with your normal oil.

Oh and dont use any kind of paper in the coolant jackets (to keep dirt from getting in them) use an old rag.. I use news paper not thinking it would turn to pulp and i couldnt get it out and while trying i pushed it into my heads.. I had to block the holes and put my mouth on one and blow hard to push the pulp blob out.. lol MMM what else... oh and when your done i would make a oil catch can for the pcv valve.. Go to lowes.. go to the tool section and purchase one of those air compressor filters for $25 or was it $35 i forgot.. Remove the 5 micron filter from it, and go to the dollar store and get some of those metal scrub pad things and stuff the plastic tube with them.. and use rtv on the hole on the bottom of the tube to block it up so air doesnt get sucked through it.. Then get like 3 feet of fuel line tubing and some zip ties and hook it up to your pcv system... This is how much oil my catch can caught after only 4 days thats like 1-2 teespoons right there.. I did this because i noticed after i fixed my intake i looked inside and it was getting oily getting.. youd be amazed hwo much oil gets in there from the pcv..





Oh and I suggest you get a try and lable the bolts you remove like alternator, a/c compressor ect and also i would take a picture of each bolt you remove and its hole because some are long some are short and i garuntee you will forget which long bolt goes where and which short goes where.. Get felpro intake gaskets, and i suggest you get a new thermostat, new thermostat housing, new thermostat gasket, and new throttlebody gasket as well.. and a new upper radiator hose and the small 3 inch hose between the waterpump and intake manifold.. Trust me on this. They dont sell 5.9 upper radiator hoses just get the 5.2 and cut the hose for your low speed fan sensor thingy
WOW...thank you SOOOOOOOO much for all of that! I truly appreciate it! :thumbsup:
I will follow all the advice, and report back.
Thanks again! :cheers2:
You can make a catch can from almost anything. They have them for sale on Amazon and Ebay too.

Here is a really nice one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmocc-rb/media/images

Here is one made out of a soup can http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Catch_can.html

It will help keep the intake clean for sure.

Heres the video i used when i installed my manifold back on.. Worked good.. However for the front gasket.. use a lot more rtv then he says.. I noticed there is a bigger gap in the front the back.. and you can even use some in the gap once its all torqued down i just smeard it in the crack to make sure. Make sure you have a gasket scraper your gonna need it to scrap that old manifold gasket off the heads
Let the RTV set up about 30 minutes before you reinstall for a good seal too.
well i used "the right stuff" that stuff is good for a seal a few minutes after, but mine was waiting for like a good 30 min because i had to run to the store not knowing i needed a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter for my wrench lol
I think I used Permatex ultra black in the squirt can. Get a squirt can what ever you do. Don't hand squeeze that crap. It will make your life miserable.

Heres the video i used when i installed my manifold back on.. Worked good.. However for the front gasket.. use a lot more rtv then he says.. I noticed there is a bigger gap in the front the back.. and you can even use some in the gap once its all torqued down i just smeard it in the crack to make sure. Make sure you have a gasket scraper your gonna need it to scrap that old manifold gasket off the heads
Let the RTV set up about 30 minutes before you reinstall for a good seal too.
I think I used Permatex ultra black in the squirt can. Get a squirt can what ever you do. Don't hand squeeze that crap. It will make your life miserable.
Thanks guys...I really appreciate the guidance.
One last question with all of this....since the engine is going to be apart...should I get a new timing chain set (with gears) and timing cover gasket as well? The Niner has 139,000 miles on it now....or should I start a new thread for this question?
Thanks guys...I really appreciate the guidance.
One last question with all of this....since the engine is going to be apart...should I get a new timing chain set (with gears) and timing cover gasket as well? The Niner has 139,000 miles on it now.
That would be good preventative maintenance. Think about doing the valve cover gaskets too.
That would be good preventative maintenance. Think about doing the valve cover gaskets too.
I figured that as well....any advice on the timing chain set? I found a Mopar Performance Double Roller Timing Set for $63.00. Should I go with that one?
Do I need a new front main seal as well while the timing cover is off?
Just thinking preventative maintenance like you said. I do have about 5 days off to do all of this.
I don't know about the timing stuff I have not done that yet. Candyman can tell you. He had a great time replacing the timing cover gasket. I think he did it on his recreational vehicle too. Here is a pic.

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I don't know about the timing stuff I have not done that yet. Candyman can tell you. He had a great time replacing the timing cover gasket. I think he did it on his recreational vehicle too. Here is a pic.
LOL...love it! :laugh:
What about an aftermarket water pump? Or should I go with a Mopar replacement?
I don't know about the timing stuff I have not done that yet. Candyman can tell you. He had a great time replacing the timing cover gasket. I think he did it on his recreational vehicle too. Here is a pic.
Just wow... :rofl:

I've done my waterpump and timing cover gasket and timing chain yes.. I did it only because my timing cover started to leak awhile back its up to you if you want to do that.. the timing cover gaskets tend to go bad on these v8's alot ive noticed
Just wow... :rofl:

I've done my waterpump and timing cover gasket and timing chain yes.. I did it only because my timing cover started to leak awhile back its up to you if you want to do that.. the timing cover gaskets tend to go bad on these v8's alot ive noticed
Thanks a lot....I guess I'll do it since the engine is going to be torn apart. I am going with a Mopar Performance Double Roller Timing Set.
Can I just do get a water pump from Napa or Advance, or stick with Mopar?
Also...so I need to take the oil pan off to replace the timing cover gasket?
No you dont have to remove the oil pan.. You have to remove the front bolts on the lip of the oil pan as they bolt into the timing cover but no. When you replace the timing cover just use some rtv on the oil pan gasket and youll be fine..

n fact here look at my threads when i did my timing cover and chain, and my intake manifold

This is my timing cover/waterpump/timing chain thread.. The first part is where i noticed a leak in my timing cover.. then last page has pics of the work i did.. I really dont think its needed to get Mopar stuff for everything unless you have the money for it and trust them more.. I used a GMB NEW brand pump from advance auto its been about 2 years now almost it leaked very very slightely out the weep hole for awhile but hasnt since and its hasnt caused me any problem.. Only problem i did have was it leaked using just the felpro gasket i had to take it off and use another gasket but i put rtv on both side of it and its been fine since.. I also used a normal cloyes timing chain from advance auto.. works fine.. no issues with that either..

If you do this i suggest you have a buddy to help.. Your going to need something to pry on the transmission flex plate to hold the trans/engine from turning when you unbolt the timing chain and harmonic balencer and to torque it back down.. Also when you remove the chain... be very carefull not to move the camshaft or youll mess your timing up the new chain the sprockets have circles on them that need to be facing eachother as well.. Make sure you get the torques for the camshaft and crankshaft bolts.. Thats very important.. The waterpump and so forth i just torqued them down by feel what i felt was tight... But i believe they need to be at 30ft lbs but it isnt that important as the crank and cam bolt and the intake bolts.

You'll need to buy or rent a special harmonic balencer puller/installer.. youll see the pic on page 3 of the proper one to use go watch a youtube video on how to use it

http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthrea...RD-spot...&highlight=candymancan+timing+cover

This is my intake manifold thread

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/got-my-intake-manifold-off-but-i-have-questions-1510014/
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No you dont have to remove the oil pan.. You have to remove the front bolts on the lip of the oil pan as they bolt into the timing cover but no. When you replace the timing cover just use some rtv on the oil pan gasket and youll be fine..

n fact here look at my threads when i did my timing cover and chain, and my intake manifold

This is my timing cover/waterpump/timing chain thread.. The first part is where i noticed a leak in my timing cover.. then last page has pics of the work i did.. I really dont think its needed to get Mopar stuff for everything unless you have the money for it and trust them more.. I used a GMB NEW brand pump from advance auto its been about 2 years now almost it leaked very very slightely out the weep hole for awhile but hasnt since and its hasnt caused me any problem.. Only problem i did have was it leaked using just the felpro gasket i had to take it off and use another gasket but i put rtv on both side of it and its been fine since.. I also used a normal cloyes timing chain from advance auto.. works fine.. no issues with that either..

If you do this i suggest you have a buddy to help.. Your going to need something to pry on the transmission flex plate to hold the trans/engine from turning when you unbolt the timing chain and harmonic balencer and to torque it back down.. Also when you remove the chain... be very carefull not to move the camshaft or youll mess your timing up the new chain the sprockets have circles on them that need to be facing eachother as well.. Make sure you get the torques for the camshaft and crankshaft bolts.. Thats very important.. The waterpump and so forth i just torqued them down by feel what i felt was tight... But i believe they need to be at 30ft lbs but it isnt that important as the crank and cam bolt and the intake bolts.

You'll need to buy or rent a special harmonic balencer puller/installer.. youll see the pic on page 3 of the proper one to use go watch a youtube video on how to use it

http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthrea...RD-spot...&highlight=candymancan+timing+cover

This is my intake manifold thread

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/got-my-intake-manifold-off-but-i-have-questions-1510014/
Well....I just read through your timing chain thread...and I am now scared s**tless, thank you!! :laugh:
I am pretty mechanical...but have never attempted anything like the timing chain replacement. Had NO idea about the whole harmonic balancer thing. I am just really afraid of messing up the timing, and putting everything back together, and having it run like crap! Plus...I don't think I will have anyone to help me with this. Maybe i should just leave it alone...but i really wanted to replace the chain and timing cover gasket when i replaced the water pump...just for peace of mind, and preventative maintenance.
Yea to get the timing cover off you need to remove the harmonic balencer.. You'll need 2 big wrenchs for that i forgot the size.. and the crank/cam shaft bolts are big too i think they are like 22mm or something i forgot its been too long since i did it.. My chain actually was in good shape like new actually.. I only replaced it because i had to take my timing cover off to replace that bad gasket, it was more of a might as well thing.. So honestly i bet your chain is perfectly fine.... The thing is my Jeep wasnt leaking prior to me replacing the radiator cap.. when i replaced my old cap it started leaking.. Reason is my old cap i didnt have to push down and twist to take it off.. You just twist and it comes off.. That means the spring was weak so pressure in the system wasnt what it was suppose to be.. So new cap more pressure and it started leaking like a faucet out of the timing cover.

So for all you know your gasket could be bad but it isnt leaking due to an old radiator cap.. Thats why i tell people to be carefull replacing the cap because of my own experience.

Honestly I understand your fear on the timing cover and chain ect.. I had a friend helping me.. I got lucky i was in advance auto parts i met a guy and we started talking about cars.. I mentioned my Jeep and the problems i was having with it and he offerd to help me.. Said to follow him to his house he had $30k in tools in his garage and he was a mechanic for 11 years.. Told him i had no money to pay him i was broke.. he said he wasnt money motivated so yea... he had snap on tools and everything and he helped big time with all the work... I paid him $75 from the money i g ot back from renting the harmonic balencer puller.. It was all i had.

I would say between me replacing my viscous coupler, to the timing chain/water pump ect. and the intake manifold.. The timing chain thing was the hardest one to do. But honestly if you take your time like we did took like 8-9 hours and go slow and take breaks on a difficulty scale its probly a 6 out of 10.. The intake is probly a 5, the viscous coupler was probly a 5 as well. The only thing you need to be carefull of like i said is marking where the bolts came out of.. Take pictures of every bolt you pull and put them together with lables.. I garuntee you will forget.. As for the timing being messed up, that was my friends biggest worry as well.. And he is a mechanic the most ive ever done was change oil prior to this.... lol... He was worried right before we fired it up that it would run like crapp.. So we turned it on and let it run without coolant for a second or two to listen to the engine.. Turned out it was fine..

The crankshaft you dont have to worry about moving its the camshaft.. pull the gear out slightly then get a sharpie and mark the block/shaft so when you do pull the gears off if it does move you can move it back.. Just pull it out slowely and youll be fine.. Lots of people have done this on these forums.
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