I'd go ahead and replace the crank sensor while you have the intake off. Also the valve cover gaskets.
Here is the Fel-Pro ES-72169 Intake Manifold bolt set.Pick up a fresh set of bolts, because the TSB 09-05-00 sequence stretches the bolts. I got my bolts from Rock Auto and the quality is great.
You can pull the whole assembly as is and set it on the passenger's side fender - no need to remove the A/C compressor or alternator from the bracket at allthe generator should be removed, the A/C compressor should be flopped to the passenger's side and the generator / compressor bracket should be removed.
This. I if you don't want to risk having to do it twice, use the RTV like Right Stuff.Btw., when re-installing the intake manifold:
Do NOT (!!!) use the cross-over gaskets from the intake manifold gasket kit.
Instead use 1/4" bead of black RTV on the engine block "valley" on the front and back. Even though you can make the cross-over gaskets to somewhat work, it's much easier with RTV and it actually seals better.
No need to buy extra bolts.Thanks everyone for the responses and advice.
My plan is to buy this kit: http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?partid=30712 which includes all bolts, should I buy another bolt set to use instead of the included one?
I was going to use the cross-over gaskets provided and use black RTV in the four corners as it says in the FSM. Should I just use RTV instead of the gaskets then?
I'm ordering a new PCV (and grommet) and will put an aluminium catch can like Candyman said.
If after all this I have some money left to spend, I'll throw in a new CPS and the valve cover gaskets, and I'll keep and eye on the cat.
Thank you all!
I tried them as well, but couldn't get them to seal. Tried twice :shhh:If you get the fel pro kit with the rubber gaskets they have guide pins that match the block and won't move. I did both of my engines that way and they are fine.
That was not an issue with mine and I did use a thicker laser cut aluminum plate. Something to watch out for though.I've done two (three if you count the one I re-did because the plenum gasket itself didn't seal) using the FelPro kit with rubber end gaskets and had zero problems with the end gaskets.
What I did find was using the FelPro plenum gasket, with the aluminum plenum, required RTV to seal the plenum itself. (I used the Ultra Grey.) The FelPro gasket is metal with rubber impregnated in-between the bolt circles. The steel plenum deflects at the bolt locations, but the rubber portions (in theory) take up the "space" created between the bolt circles by the deflections. Because the aluminum plenum is so much thicker, it doesn't deflect at all. While the rubber portions sealed up perfectly, I ended up with a few leaks at the actual bolt locations.