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USER OF PARTS CATALOGS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gotta do this on the weekend, so I figured I'd ask if one would be useful. If not, just throwing the damn thing in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! If it wasn't the jeep it would be something else,like 245 to get a molar pulled today. That had me ready to punch someone. I'm just doing the lockmotor/latch assembly,no keys involved. Panel, motor plug, 4rods, 3 screws. Just thoughtit would be humorous pics of chewed up hands working in a small place. Did one at the jy the other day so I could get at the alarm disarm switch on the back of the lock cylinder. In case I want to alarm it one day.

Was troubleshooting it last weekend and the next morning window wouldn't work. Did the Fonz fix on that and has worked since then. Yeah,"popcorn dude" served its purpose well.
 

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2012 WK2 Overland
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Wait to you get some $800-$900 crowns coralman and we'll be looking for your empty wallet selling on ebay! :D

Sure I'd like to see a pictorial/write-up on the door lock/actuator replacement! I already know how to do it but I'm sure it would be helpful. I need to replace the one on my passenger rear door which is driving me nuts!

I've also heard you can test one with a 12V drill battery at the jy to see if it's good/bad before you remove it. That's something I'd like to see if it works or not since will have to go after one at the price the dealers charge.

:popCorn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm past the crown mentality,lol. Yeah you could test it that way. There are only two wires and the switch just reverses polarity to the motor. Its a shaded pole motor I guess. I half and half most parts I get for the jeep. This time it fell on the dealer half. Gave me a chance to talk to my kansas bud and see how his new kid was doing. Most times he is cheaper than ebay. He knows I'm gonna use him for OE so he treats me well. Its cyclic, run em up, pay em down. Still way cheaper than a new vehicle payment though!
 

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I'm past the crown mentality,lol. Yeah you could test it that way. There are only two wires and the switch just reverses polarity to the motor. Its a shaded pole motor I guess. I half and half most parts I get for the jeep. This time it fell on the dealer half. Gave me a chance to talk to my kansas bud and see how his new kid was doing. Most times he is cheaper than ebay. He knows I'm gonna use him for OE so he treats me well. Its cyclic, run em up, pay em down. Still way cheaper than a new vehicle payment though!
We can never have too many write-ups on the forum. And that's definitely one I haven't seen.

Repairs > Payments :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Write up coming next weekend, part should be here by then. Thanks for reminding me xcaliber about the chrome handles, I also have 4 that need to go in. I'll also show what pins to use on the door module to hook up puddle lights if you don't have them in the door panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
X, remember that I have a 98 so I'm not sure that the wiring is the same. Korea would know if the diagrams are similar but haven't seen him in awhile. Verify before you go to rewiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Got it done this weekend .
Font Material property Packaging and labeling Electric blue Magenta
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Product Font Petal Party supply Sweetness

Mopar latch assy. Got a bag of these off ebay. Knew it wouldn't be the last time I had a door panel off.

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Take the 4 attaching screws out of the panel. Make sure your window is all the way up. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Starting at the bottom or sides pry the panel out to release the plastic panel clips. Disconnect the two plugs from the driver door module. Be careful when doing this as the release tabs on the plugs break without much effort.

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Now to removing the latch. The three screws are T30 torx. The oblong slot is the location of the latch adjustment screw. You can barely see it in the pic. I marked the edges of the screw on the door with blue tape just as a reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Disconnect the lock motor plug again being careful with release catch. If you don't see this plug look for the tag that says "lock motor" ,lol. If you were having problems and wanted to verify you had power to the plug you would backprobe the plug before any of this proceedure with a testlight and work the lock switch both directions. It should light. Mine did so I assumed it was a bad motor or jammed lock mechanism.

Jewellery Font Electric blue Metal Fashion accessory
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You can see in the pic previously posted that the latch/lock has 4 rods attached to it. The next pic shows the clip style that attaches the rods. To disconnect the rods push the two snap arms off the rod then pull the rod out of the clip. To install put the rod in the hole in the clip then snap the arms portion back onto the rod. Sounds easy right? Well yes and no. The two arm clips at the top of the first pic are easy peasy. The bottom two in the pic, green and orange, not so much. If you got big hands, may the gods be with you. They come off fairly quickly. To get them back on you will have to tilt the assy. back and forth, cocking it around the window channel{ for the green one especially} until get the rods back in the holes. Do the two closest to the outside of the door first when assembling.

With all the rods attached, you have to adjust the latch. The fsm doesn't mention this but an insert packaged with the new latch does. Remember the oblong slot at the beginning? The adjustment screw is visable in that slot. Operate the door handle push button several times. Insert a 5/32 allen wrench in the screw and tighten. Latch is adjusted. The screw head was pretty close to the blue tape indicators I had put on earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Now to the puddle lights. If you have a Laredo, on the front doors you have a red reflector. On the Limiteds they have a light housing that energizes when the door is opened. Snag a couple of housings or panels from a limited.This is how you hook them up. First lets look at the DDM plug. If I run across a gutted ZJ I'll always cut a few plugs off at a time,usually off limiteds.

Font Screenshot Number Pattern Document


Looking at the pinout the two cavities we need to use are #7 black ground, and cavity#11 pink muxcourtesy lamp driver. I didn't want to swap out the whole harness so I'll pull the pink wire out of the limited plug and later on when I get some mopar crimps and crimping tool cut the insulation back on the black wire and crimp and solder a tap off to run to the light. Same for the pink.

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On my cutoff plug there is a yellow retaining clip that needs to be removed so we can get the pink wire out. Just pry the locks at the ends and middle up a little and it will come off. Move the other wires out of the way of the solid pink one.

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Next to release the pink wire from the connector we have to disable the lock inside the connector. I have a set of pick tools but a small flat watchmakers screwdriver will work. Insert the pick tool from the front. You'll see an open portion to the cavity, not the terminal itself. Thats where the tool goes. Insert it untill you feel it stop. Position the tool aginst the flat of the connector and with alittle forward pressure pry up. The wire should pull out from the rear. It may take you a couple of tries but it will release.

Circuit component Finger Electrical wiring Thumb Nail
Automotive tire Hood Bumper Finger Automotive exterior


Insert the pink wire into your connector in the same orientation and cavity and you have established the power wire to the light. Crimp and solder,heatshrink the pink and black wires to the light and you now have puddle lights. If you want to check before soldering put one end of your testlight to ground and the other end to the pink wire . If it lights with the door open you are good to go.
 

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2012 WK2 Overland
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Real nice write-up coralman, with great photos, and thanks for taking the time to do this!

If I might offer a suggestion you may want to link your write-up threads directly in your signature. With this one you could just link it to where your instructions/photos start on 8/3. The search function, even an advanced search, on this forum has a lot to be desired where I have a difficult time finding most things. I've been frequently referring to your real good suspension write-up and the easiest way to find it is through a link in somebody else's thread.

Just a suggestion and thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Uni you know I'm a watermelon when it comes to computers.lol! Tell me how and i will. Did you get the hub off?
 

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No problem coralman.

- Go to post 13 in this thread and click on #13 itself on the top/right which will bring that post to the top of the page. Then click the URL in the slot/box at the top of the page which highlights it and copy.
- Click on "My Account" at the top of the page then "Edit Signature" on the left under "Settings and Options".
- Type the text you want in the white signature box, such as "Pictorial write-up of door lock motor replacement & puddle lights", or whatever you want. Drag the curser across the text to highlight it.
- Then click the insert link icon (world w/chain link) at the top and paste in the URL you copied at the start. (know you know what the link icon is and just posting for others)
- Once your link is posted in the text you can click on "Preview Signature" to make sure it's the way you want & can make changes.
- Finally be sure and click on the "Save Signature" button on the bottom before exiting.

Note: others viewing your write-up can always go back and read the beginning posts if they want to.

Hope this helps and yep, heat works wonders for getting the hub out! ;)
 

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YW coralman and I was busy writing some instructions. Believe I'd write separate text to paste those URL's into since you can't really tell what they are since the topic is at the end of the URL/link and isn't seen on the screen.

edit, duh should have seen you did write what they are at the beginning. I'm bad. Still may look a little neater if the URL's were pasted were directly into text.
 
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