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Omelet's Build Thread (aka The Bison)!

1418932 Views 2559 Replies 325 Participants Last post by  DarkSideofWill
That's right, I am FINALLY making my build thread! I have been modding this Jeep for three years now so I have a lot of catching up to do. Just bare with me, because this is going to take some time to get through. I will start from the beginning and try not to miss anything. :2thumbsup:

It all started in 2004 when I saw the beast that AEV and SuperLift made.



Not only did it look awesome, but it boasted some incredible performance. A Jeep Grand Cherokee with QDII coupled to a HEMI! I had to have it! Unfortunately, being a lowly military man also trying to support a family I could not afford a $45K vehicle, let along the $5K+ for the lift tires and other goodies.

Finally after the market took a crap in late 08 the time had come! I started looking around and pricing the different models and option. By then the CRD had also come out which I wanted more than the Hemi, but I could not find one in Cali :thumbdown: I found a few in other states, but they were too far away and more than I could afford. So I ended up scoring a 2005 Limited with every option available that year and 40K miles for $16K! It seemed no one wanted to buy a big Hemi powered vehicle at that time, so local dealers were pricing them very low. Even a year after I bought it I couldn't find a better deal :thumbsup:

This was the day I brought it home!





Yes it is dirty because I insisted on swinging by a trail on the way home to test out 4lo! I wanted to make sure the t-case and ELSDs were working properly. :D In fact the first mod I made was to remove the front air dam before I hit the trail.



***************************************************************************
Below is a list of mods I have performed. Click on the mod and it will take you straight to it. This should help with the confusion of trying to find what you are looking for :2thumbsup:

-Volant CAI
-MBRP Exhaust
-LED Taillights
-Aries Taillight Guards
-OME MD Lift with 255/75/17 BFG MT tires on Moabs
-HIDs in the Lows and Fogs
-4xGuard Front Skid
-4xGuard Matrix
-Chrome Grill Slats
-Rear Hitch Mod to clear a New 255/75/17 MT
-4xGuard Rear Skid
-Midland CB in the Cubby
-HM Engineering Chromoly UCAs
-Stillen Rotors
-ARB High Output Compressor and Tank Plumbing Pics
-285/70/17 BFG KM2 Tires
-Rear Fender Mod
-JKS Quicker Disconnects (Front)
-4xGuard 12 Bolt Diff Cover
-Grooved the KM2s
-Painted Side View Mirror Covers
-Taylor Shorties
-BT Catch Can
-Fastman Trottle Body
-1.5" Rear Coil Spacers
-Rusty's Extended Rear Sway Bar Links
-Rusty's Strut Spacers (Stacking Two of Them)
-Firestik 3' CB Antenna on a Saguaro Mount Installed a Stainless Spring
-4xGuard Belly Skid
-4xGuard Sliders
-295/70/17 Nitto Trail Grapplers
-OME HD Coils
-Bump Stop Extensions (Front)
-Painted the Matrix and Front Skid
-SuperLift Rear Shocks
-Rear Brake Line Extensions and Fuel Tank Notch
-JKS Quicker Disconnects (Rear)
-Rusty's Adjustable Track Bar
-Bumpstop Extensions (Rear)
-Rigid Industries D2s
-Refurbished My Hi-Lift Jack
-Fox 2.0 11" Remote Reservoir Shocks
-Saguaro Switch Panel
-Gobi Stealth Roof Rack
-Hidden Winch
-Painted My Moabs (Set #1)
-LED Switchbacks
-LED Rock Lights
-MOPAR Badge
-Limiting Straps (Front)
-Rigid Industries 20" E-Series
-Painted My Washer Fluid Bottle
-Cargo Area LED Strip Mod
-Bedlined Rear Step
-08+ HID Projector Headlamps
-Ouch Band-Aid!
-Over Head Switch Panel
-Bedlined Rockers
-ORT Wheel Decals
-BT Under Hood Kit - Completed Kit
-ASFIR Front and T-Case skids
-Steel Armadillo Sliders
-Armor Weights
-WeatherTech Floor Mats
-ORT8 Badges
-10" Stainless Steel Antenna
-7 Watt Cree Reverse Bulbs - Night Pics
-Billet Low Pro Door Locks - Instal Pics - Low Pro OEM Locks
-Throttle Body Grounding Wire
-Fumoto Engine Oil Plug
-35x12.50R17 BFG KR Tires - Instal Pics
-MOD Status
-Expanded Sheet Metal Grill
-Mopar Fuel Tank Door
-Painted My Moabs (Set#2)
-Painted Caliper Covers (Rear)
-SuperLift Instal
-Mopar Stripes
-Modified SuperLift Steering Stops
-Front and Rear View Camera System
-Staun Tyre Deflators
-Tough Light 42" Black Series - Night Shots
-BullyDog WatchDog
-KC LED Utility Light
-Painted Side View Mirrors
-Front Bumper Trim
-New Laser Etched Switch Cover
-Pillar Pod
-Insulated The Intake again
-Brightt USA 19" LED bar
-AFE Pro Dry Filter PN:21-45003
-JBA 6" rear coils
-Fox 2.0 12" Remote Reservoir Rear Shocks with C/D adjust
-5lbs CO2 tank
-Front Inner Fender Liners with room for 35" tires
-Custom Rusty's Rear LCAs
-Custom Safari Snorkel - - - Finished the plumbing
-Custom OTRATTW Switch Covers
-AEV EGR Module
-Reupholstered Steering Wheel
-Custom Side Exit Exhaust
-08 HID Projector Headlamps MK-2
-Jeep-Core LED Cup Holder Rings
-Cobra 75 CB
-SprintBooster
-HD Front Drive Shaft
-Sonnax Transmission Line Pressure Booster
-Modified ARB Bar
-Under Cover Fabworks 12 Bolt Cover
-Custom AM/FM Antenna
-Bilstein 5100 Struts
-37" Maxxis Trepadors (bias) - - - Glamour Pics
-Aspen Creek (S4xC) Boulder Grill Insert
-RCV Shafts
-Crawl Offroad Stainless Extended Brake Lines
-LED High Beams
-50" Curved LED Light Bar
-Blue Hood Hash Marks
-BrakeMotive Rotors and Pads
-Custom Rear Tire Carrier
-Relocated Rear Licence Plate
-Odyssey 34/78 Battery
-ARB Twin Compressor (CKMTA12)
-TransGo Reprogramming Kit (45RFE-HD2)
-BFGoodrich KO2 35x12.5R17 Tires
-LED Strip Brake Lights
-TRE Soft Shackles
-Gobi Rack Bike Mounts
-JeePerf Polyurethane Bushings
-Shovel Mount
-JeePerf Chromoly SuperFelx Tie Rods

A more current picture:


Future mods (in no particular order) :

- Tablet Dash Instal
- Custom Coilovers
- 6.1L Headers
- Rear 3-link Long Arms
- SRT Seats
2541 - 2560 of 2560 Posts

· Evil Overlord!
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Discussion Starter · #2,541 ·
I've been meaning to update this thread for a while now. Life has been keeping me way too busy the past couple years. Right now I'm trying to organize my project photos so I can start sharing and getting this up to date. I used Photobucket for years until they became a bunch of money hungry turds. Then I was trying to make Imgur work, but it only annoyed me. So now I'm going to see if I can live with Flickr for my photo hosting. Stay tuned for some actual project updates soon...
 

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Including that darn tablet.....

Haha

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I've been meaning to update this thread for a while now. Life has been keeping me way too busy the past couple years. Right now I'm trying to organize my project photos so I can start sharing and getting this up to date. I used Photobucket for years until they became a bunch of money hungry turds. Then I was trying to make Imgur work, but it only annoyed me. So now I'm going to see if I can live with Flickr for my photo hosting. Stay tuned for some actual project updates soon...
Thanks for the little update!

Congrats on your 5th child!

Been subd since the beginning man, its a killer build and very innovative. Glad to hear you're still going with it and continually evolving what was already a great vehicle.

Photo hosting sux these days. You'd think with all the tech and online advancement we have these days that it would get easier...
 

· Evil Overlord!
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Discussion Starter · #2,544 ·
Time for some actual mod updates!

I actually completed this months ago back in Nov of last year, but it was a project I've been helping JeePerf with for what's probably a couple years now. My schedule mixed with a lack of time to work on the Jeep has made projects take forever! The goal was to have a solid set of tie rods I wouldn't have to worry about bending and be able to out flex the factory setup, all while working with the SuperLift and clearing 17" wheels. It was one more step to slowly getting more wheel travel out of the front of this Jeep. I upgraded to RCVs a couple years back so I don't have to worry about snapping a half shaft or out flexing the CVs. The next step was to get more flex at the tie rod which is actually the first limiting factor in the suspension. This is actually the third tie rod revision and like the saying goes, third times the charm! Now to get to some pics...

Here you can see the difference between the factory tie rods and the JeePerf SuperFlex tie rods.











As you can see these are much stronger than stock and the flex potential is incredible. They can flex much more than our IFS will ever be capable of. Now with my pair still being the prototype set for a SuperLift setup they didn't just bolt in and clear, but it was very close and by far the closest so far.

Here you can see with the inner tie rod installed how much more flex these still have.



And now with the tie rod end installed and in the knuckle.



I was so pumped at this point. . . until I tried installing the wheel. The TRE was making contact with the inside of the wheel and the wheel wouldn't seat completely.





I was quite bummed at this point and sat back looking at everything thinking what could I possibly do to still make these work. I noticed that the taped pin in the TRE sat up higher than it needed to and I thought if I could somehow lower the taper and have the pin sit lower in the knuckle then that may create enough clearance for the wheel.

Thankfully I had this AR barrel nut wrench handy that fit the cap screw perfectly!







Now with the pin out I tossed around a few different ideas and settled on taking the taper down very slowly in my drill press. I wasn't sure it was going to work, but it was worth a try. Worst case was I screwed it up and needed to have Wally make me another set of pins, but with a different taper.



After many times taking a little off, re-installing, test fitting, disassembling, and taking a little more off and trying again, I finally adjusted to taper enough to clear the wheel with about 3/16" clearance.





So in the end the tapered section went from roughly 5/8" above the knuckle to roughly 1/16"





Lowering the pin that far in the knuckle also meant I was going to run out of threads for the nut. So I found a couple hefty washers to use with the nut to keep from bottoming out the threads.







Here are some shots taken from different angles while turning the steering left and right with the suspension at full drop to test clearances.









Thankfully the TRE naturally wants to stay in a forward pitched position which aids with clearance.

Last thing to do was to swap the inner boot over to keep the open end of the steering rack clean. I did this with the help of a heat gun which was necessary because of how much thicker the new inner tie rod is. And with that the install was complete! Well at least on the one side. . . time to do the other...







And finally with the Jeep back on the ground at ride height.





After the install the first most noticeable thing was just how smooth the steering felt. And when going over bumps or cracks in the road it's so buttery smooth! I was not expecting such a noticeable difference in just how smooth it the everything felt. Obviously I was expecting a strong, tight, and flexible steering so the rest was a really nice unexpected bonus. I've had these on the Jeep for some time now and I'm still thrilled to have them. That last pic was just from this morning.

A quick side note. Like I mentioned earlier I competed this months ago and passed all info off to JeePerf for final tweaking. The pin design has been changed so no one should have any fitment issued. I'm pretty sure my setup is about as tight and restrictive as can be. Having a SL with the raised knuckles, 17" wheel with minimal backspacing (JK Moabs), and 1" wheel spacers. If they fit on mine then I don't see anyone else having any issues! And as always the craftsmanship and quality is top notch coming from JeePerf :bacon:
 

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Well, it has taken me just about a week and a half to get through this thread. Omelet, your Jeep is AWESOME!! I don't even remember what information I was looking for when I found this thread, but I now have more things to do to my Commander. Looking forward to lots more stuff.
 

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Time for some actual mod updates!

I actually completed this months ago back in Nov of last year, but it was a project I've been helping JeePerf with for what's probably a couple years now. My schedule mixed with a lack of time to work on the Jeep has made projects take forever! The goal was to have a solid set of tie rods I wouldn't have to worry about bending and be able to out flex the factory setup, all while working with the SuperLift and clearing 17" wheels. It was one more step to slowly getting more wheel travel out of the front of this Jeep. I upgraded to RCVs a couple years back so I don't have to worry about snapping a half shaft or out flexing the CVs. The next step was to get more flex at the tie rod which is actually the first limiting factor in the suspension. This is actually the third tie rod revision and like the saying goes, third times the charm! Now to get to some pics...

Here you can see the difference between the factory tie rods and the JeePerf SuperFlex tie rods.


Last thing to do was to swap the inner boot over to keep the open end of the steering rack clean. I did this with the help of a heat gun which was necessary because of how much thicker the new inner tie rod is. And with that the install was complete! Well at least on the one side. . . time to do the other...







And finally with the Jeep back on the ground at ride height.





After the install the first most noticeable thing was just how smooth the steering felt. And when going over bumps or cracks in the road it's so buttery smooth! I was not expecting such a noticeable difference in just how smooth it the everything felt. Obviously I was expecting a strong, tight, and flexible steering so the rest was a really nice unexpected bonus. I've had these on the Jeep for some time now and I'm still thrilled to have them. That last pic was just from this morning.

A quick side note. Like I mentioned earlier I competed this months ago and passed all info off to JeePerf for final tweaking. The pin design has been changed so no one should have any fitment issued. I'm pretty sure my setup is about as tight and restrictive as can be. Having a SL with the raised knuckles, 17" wheel with minimal backspacing (JK Moabs), and 1" wheel spacers. If they fit on mine then I don't see anyone else having any issues! And as always the craftsmanship and quality is top notch coming from JeePerf :bacon:
Thanks for the update .. We really missed for some time.

Is it only for superlift setup? Would you recommend these rod ends for my Jeep?
I have 2 inch lift, 1.25 wheel spacer, 18" OEM wheel.
 

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Let me know when you get back in brother, I'd definitely like to score that template you made if you still have one because I purchased this snorkel too! Plus I'm in SD too, so you wont have to mail it! :cheers2:

Finally, I was so close! Now I pressed the snorkel against the Jeep good and tight to make sure this was where I wanted it before going any farther. I liked it so I only needed to adjust the template slightly using the outline I did before as a reference, and tape it down again.



This is just phase one! Phase two will be actually plumbing it into the filter box which I hope to get to here soon. Also, for anyone wanting to do this same thing I did keep the painters take intact and plan to make a template that I can mail off to anyone interested. That way most of the guess work is out of it. You will just need to line it up on your fender using the contours, and drill away :2thumbsup: That is at a small fee :rtft: :rofl:
 

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Next up was the rear cargo lighting upgrade. I used some leftover LED strips I had from my rock lights to better illuminate the cargo area. This was a very pleasant upgrade because lets face it, the little bulb in the hatch is worthless!

I popped the rear ceiling molding off and linked 3 sections of LEDs together to stretch over the 3 openings.





I tested them out with a 9V battery to make sure they worked properly.





I totally forgot to take a picture of it, but I trimmed the two slats that are on each side of the LEDs. I wanted them to sit as low as possible for max light output without shadows from the slats. Once I got them positioned just right I used hot glue to secure them in place.





With light shinning through you can see them, but once they are up in place you can't unless you are looking for them.









Now for the instal. I was lazy and didn't feel like wiring in a switch at the time. So I just tapped into the interior lights. Once you remove the molding to instal the LEDs you can see the wire harness that comes from the ceiling and goes into the hatch. The (+) is the RED with a WHITE stripe and the (-) is YELLOW with an ORANGE stripe. Splice the LEDs into those two wires and pop the molding back into place. And there you have it!





Here you can see the light difference between the LEDs and the rest of the interior lights



As you can see the light output is greatly increased! I am happy with the results. The light cuts off right at the rear seat so I won't disturb my kids at night. I originally wanted to convert all the interior lights to LEDs, but the cargo area is really the only spot I needed more light. So I think I will only swap out the one in the rear hatch and maybe instal some in the foot wells.
What a great idea. Dont know why I didnt think of doing it this way. I just installed a LED strip over those vents. Definately changing it up now!
 

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What a great idea. Dont know why I didnt think of doing it this way. I just installed a LED strip over those vents. Definately changing it up now!
Definitely a great idea however after about a year, I decided I needed more! Super easy install and I run em off a switch also


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This looks great. More details please!
It's been a few years since the mod but from what I remember, I bought 2 18w led lights off ebay/amazon, removed the hatch cover so I could figured where to install them (there was a recessed area on either side and that's where I had to put em), drew a template over tape and cut the holes with a dremel. I ran the wiring along the top drivers side ceiling. There was a channel with the oe wiring that made it easier. Brought the wires down through the round rubber grommet that feeds the hatch. Ran em off my switch panel in that left hand cubby up front. The lights use such little power I dont think I put em on a relay but knowing me I probably did (cant remember). I haven't driven my wk in a year since I decided to rebuild the motor. Wasnt having any major issues only high miles. Just wanted to do it I guess. Started out as a basic rering with fresh bearings that morphed into a new camshaft, custom headers, over bored block, milled head a little, upgraded valve springs, pushrods, lifters...also new front cv axles, diff bushings, freshened up the mod ome, went into the tranny for a new clutch pack, and transgo hd kit. New catback, repaired/recovered the wiring harness in places, changed ALL fluids (both diffs, Tcase, tran, etc). New tran filters, pan w/ drain, painted some stuff (esp lower windshield cowling). New starter, water pump, radiator,..cleaned the intake out REALLY good. That thing was horrid I recommend everyone with a gen 3 hemi remove it, soak it in purple power for a few days and get a catch can!. I could keep going but it hurts to think about the $$I've spent on this thing. Couldve got a new truck but apparently I like the ole thing! Oh and anyone else that's ever had trouble with the thermostat housing leaking, I got a billet tech one in the satin (matches my catch can) and it is amazing. Very nice craftsmanship and overall a beautiful piece for 40 bucks or so. Plus itll never leak again. I thought I had a pic of it but cant seem to find it. I'll take a pic this afternoon. I need to take some new ones of it all I guess, that or a new thread. I'm waiting on the custom tune to come back and I'll ne ready to turn the key. It's been so long since I've driven it, should be like a new vehicle.


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It's been a few years since the mod but from what I remember, I bought 2 18w led lights off ebay/amazon, removed the hatch cover so I could figured where to install them (there was a recessed area on either side and that's where I had to put em), drew a template over tape and cut the holes with a dremel. I ran the wiring along the top drivers side ceiling. There was a channel with the oe wiring that made it easier. Brought the wires down through the round rubber grommet that feeds the hatch. Ran em off my switch panel in that left hand cubby up front. The lights use such little power I dont think I put em on a relay but knowing me I probably did (cant remember). I haven't driven my wk in a year since I decided to rebuild the motor. Wasnt having any major issues only high miles. Just wanted to do it I guess. Started out as a basic rering with fresh bearings that morphed into a new camshaft, custom headers, over bored block, milled head a little, upgraded valve springs, pushrods, lifters...also new front cv axles, diff bushings, freshened up the mod ome, went into the tranny for a new clutch pack, and transgo hd kit. New catback, repaired/recovered the wiring harness in places, changed ALL fluids (both diffs, Tcase, tran, etc). New tran filters, pan w/ drain, painted some stuff (esp lower windshield cowling). New starter, water pump, radiator,..cleaned the intake out REALLY good. That thing was horrid I recommend everyone with a gen 3 hemi remove it, soak it in purple power for a few days and get a catch can!. I could keep going but it hurts to think about the $$I've spent on this thing. Couldve got a new truck but apparently I like the ole thing! Oh and anyone else that's ever had trouble with the thermostat housing leaking, I got a billet tech one in the satin (matches my catch can) and it is amazing. Very nice craftsmanship and overall a beautiful piece for 40 bucks or so. Plus itll never leak again. I thought I had a pic of it but cant seem to find it. I'll take a pic this afternoon. I need to take some new ones of it all I guess, that or a new thread. I'm waiting on the custom tune to come back and I'll ne ready to turn the key. It's been so long since I've driven it, should be like a new vehicle.


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I am kinda looking forward to doing this myself someday.
 
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