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1984 Jeep CJ-7 Renegade
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I'm nearing completion on installing my kit from Rocky Road, took the time to rebuild the Dana 30 while it was dropped.
Question about Shims? Are the shims supplied with the OME springs the 6 degree that seems to set Castor at the correct angle.

Oh and for those that do decide on the Rocky Road kit be prepared to wait. Took over 3 months and I still don't have the shocks.
Don't opt for their brake line "extensions" just seems like a garbage way to get the line length you need. Just order the Russell Part #: 695900
 

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I'm pretty sure they're 3* shims on the ARB springs. Wouldn't hurt to measure them with an angle finder on a level surface. What caster depends on what year rig you have...If it's a later year CJ should be between 5-7*...more than likely you'll need a 4* shim. I went through this recently and wished I'd just put a 4* shim to start with as most people suggested.
 
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So it’s been a while hopefully someone is following the thread.

I did the swap last year to improve ride quality, didn’t particularly want any lift.

The result was no particular improvement over the stock YJ springs and a bit too much lift.

After sitting all winter it seems to have settled s bit and I am wondering if I swap the stock YJ shackles to CJ and lose an inch if it may be low enough I keep them.

Since the rear CJ springs are wider like the YJ I am guessing I can run all Rear stock CJ shackles ?

I accidentally bought a set of front stock CJ so I know they are too narrow but the bolts seem too small for the YJ sleeves as well.

Any ideas?
Thanks
 

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1984 Jeep CJ-7 Renegade
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I run stock rear CJ shackles on all four corners and use OEM type rubber bushings on all leaf spring eyelets and shackles eyes. Of course the spring hangers are CJ type but made to use YJ bushings.

Here's my list of components: Old Man EMU 2.5" YJ to CJ Suspension Install
 
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1984 Jeep CJ-7 Renegade
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OK great, what I thought but when I slid the metal bushing onto the shackle bolt it seems a bit loose like the CJ bolts are smaller then YJ bolts…
The sleeves I purchased, 4ea. 45G15605 ACDelco (#89000859) Shackle Bushing Sleeves Jeep YJ (2ea in box), fit the YJ rubber bushings and the CJ shackles. YJ and CJ shackle bolts are the same diameter.
I put a lttle grease on the shackle and inside the sleeves before installing them so they can rotate freely while flexing and make taking them apart later on in life if need be. But once you tighten the sides of the shackle plates to spec, the sleeves won't move that much if at all. I forget but I think the rubber bushings will rotate around the sleeves during suspension flex.
 

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Sorry last question. I had a spring shop bend u bolts for me but not happy with them.

I have been going through the thread but can’t find specific info. Do you use YJ u bolts? I see you have part numbers from totally stainless. 7 of one size and one different but I checked their website and can’t find any info

thanks again
 

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1984 Jeep CJ-7 Renegade
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TotallyStainless website will only refer you to their catalog. You have to look up what you need in size and bend radius, then cross reference it to a part number in the catalog. It's old school but it's a small company in Gettysburg, PA and any mistake in the order is on you.
The part numbers I posted for the expensive U-bolts are correct. They custom make them and the one larger U-bolt is the one that fits over the D30 axle housing pumpkin casting, just like OEM Jeep CJ has. Have them make it a 1/2" shorter then the advertised overall length so it matches the other 7 U-bolts when they are installed so they all look the same. I had to cut mine off at the threads by a 1/2".
Other alternative U-bolts can be purchased from 4Wheel Drive Warehouse or other places much cheaper. Stainless alloy of greater than grade 8 material is expensive! Just warning you, but they sure do look nice.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Car
 

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First off, thank you all for making such an informative thread. I’ve decided to go ahead and put the OME heavy rears on all four corners of my CJ5, along with the 4” YJ shackles from Jim Crabtree. I’m building the frame myself, starting with pre-bent frame rails from Throttle Down Kustoms.

My biggest question is regarding spacing between the spring hanger and shackle hanger on the frame. My thinking is this:
1. Measure the unsprung distance between spring eyes.
2. Measure the distance across the arc of the spring, also to the center of the spring eyes.
3. Place the spring/shackle hangers half way between figure 1 and figure 2.

Does this seem like the proper way to determine hanger spacing? And if not is there something I’m not considering? These will be fully welded to the frame so it’s essential I get it right the first time. Unfortunately I’m unable to take accurate measurements from my original frame.
 

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First off, thank you all for making such an informative thread. I’ve decided to go ahead and put the OME heavy rears on all four corners of my CJ5, along with the 4” YJ shackles from Jim Crabtree. I’m building the frame myself, starting with pre-bent frame rails from Throttle Down Kustoms.

My biggest question is regarding spacing between the spring hanger and shackle hanger on the frame. My thinking is this:
1. Measure the unsprung distance between spring eyes.
2. Measure the distance across the arc of the spring, also to the center of the spring eyes.
3. Place the spring/shackle hangers half way between figure 1 and figure 2.

Does this seem like the proper way to determine hanger spacing? And if not is there something I’m not considering? These will be fully welded to the frame so it’s essential I get it right the first time. Unfortunately I’m unable to take accurate measurements from my original frame.
Have you seen this?
 
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