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I didn't use the conversion kit, I parted it out myself. Install is straightforward like any other leaf suspension. Taking old stuff off is the difficult part. Soak everything with PB blaster a couple days before you start.

The only thing that isn't bolt-on would be the front shackle hangers, which involve removing the front cross member rivets and using the holes to relocate the new hangers forward of the stock locations.

Ride height is perfect imo, and it looks like you got 4 of the rear heavy springs. I have the medium front springs and the rear heavy, so on my CJ the rears sits slightly higher than the front(maybe 3/4")so with it loaded up it will sit level.

The difference in ride and handling is profound, I also did not want so much lift that my various steering and alignment angles etc would be negatively affected, and this setup does not. YMMV.

Good Luck, post pictures of your progress if you have time. This is a terrific upgrade.
 

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I haven't had an alignment done to know exactly what I ended up with, but I have no vibrations or wandering etc. Rides perfectly. I think this lift is just toeing the line where it's mild enough to not cause any issues. Again your mileage may vary though, every rig is a little different.

I went from a 4" Rough Country which was horrible and had all kinds of handling issues, down to this, which has been perfect.

I went back to a stock pitman arm and it's fine. I actually have greater turning radius now.

Here's a pic of what I ended up with, just the right amount of lift imo:

 

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Erik,

Dang, that's a fine looking ride!! I hope mine has a similar stance, afterwards. Are those 33s?

Chris, you may have hit on my only snag. The salesman told me I could use the existing hangers once I replaced the old frame mounts with the wider ones. Was he mistaken?

Here are a few "before" pictures of the ol' girl. I'm going to tackle the body, when I complete the suspension.

Matt
Yes I have 33's. No rubbing, but I don't do much heavy wheeling.
 

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I didn't drop my T-case. It's sort of optional. This is one of the reasons why I stayed away from the kits and parted everything myself. I knew there would be stuff I was paying for that would end up not being used.
 

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I just notched my front bumper(stock CJ) with a jigsaw to fit around the shackle mounts and repainted it. If you do this just make sure your notches are wide enough to still get a wrench on the ends of the shackle bolts.
 

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The original salesman I spoke with, at ARB (owners of OME) was clueless about CJs, and unwilling to do the research. He said that was "beyond the scope of what he could help me with"...are you kidding me?

So, taking 85LaredoCJ7's advice, I politely asked for TR Burris. Wow, what a difference talking to the right person makes. It took TR all of about 30 seconds to narrow down the possible steering shocks to (2) models that have the right eyelet/post configuration.

Unfortunately, both of those models are 3" in diameter, which I believe is too large to work with the stock mounting bracket.

So the answer is, OEM does not make a damper that bolts tight up to CJs. Bummer.

I hope to fabricate a bracket that will allow me to use the SD40 shock pictured above. I'll post a picture, if I come up with something that works.

Matt
It sucks there isn't a bolt on solution for you man, but this should be an easy one to fab up if you are so inclined. You could probably do away with the existing mount and just weld a shock stud right to the tie rod or something.
 

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Here's what I would order if I was starting from scratch. I had recently replaced some items (like my shackles) before I started, so I didn't need everything I have listed here. This should get you pointed in the right direction.

You need 4 OME springs,
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_5058.htm

4 OME shocks,
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16091_0171.htm

Front and rear YJ bushings(You need 4 of these kits, one for each spring)
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_700.htm

4-1.25" ID shackle hangers(CJ are 1"ID, YJ are 1.25"ID)
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12590_0006.htm

2 YJ front spring plates, left and right(or get some conversion spring plates. The CJ rear spring plates can be reused if you want)
http://www.quadratec.com/products/56008_05.htm

Longer shackle bolts(I would just get two sets of these or something similar without bushings and be done with it)
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16049_4011.htm

New ubolts(don't forget one needs to be the larger diameter for the front differential housing if you have a Dana 30)
http://www.quadratec.com/products/56009_01.htm

That's the basic parts list I came up with for my conversion(though I haven't done the shocks yet) If I've forgotten something let me know. I come up with about $1100 before shipping.

I hope this helps, it can be somewhat confusing. Sounds like even the guys selling the kits have trouble with it.

If you order from Quadratec, don't forget to call or email Joe and get yourself a forum member discount, and possibly free shipping.
 

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You're absolutely right about the brake line extensions, I already had Russell braided stainless lines installed from my previous lift, and forgot that part. Thanks! I wish I had a "Master List" of parts to order from when I did mine, hopefully this helps.

The springs really are ridiculously flexy. It looks like a mild mannered, slightly lifted Jeep, then as soon as you get into the knobby stuff it grows these crazy legs and starts walking over things like a Transformer or something.
 

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I don't know if I just got lucky or what, but for the first time since I've had the Jeep I can take my hands off the wheel and it goes straight down the road. It's much less exhausting to drive when you have that neutral spot in the steering instead of constantly holding it one way or another.

When I had the 4" Rough Country on there, the inner portion of my front wheels was wearing rapidly. This has now stopped even though I'm putting lots more miles on the rig than I ever have.

With that said I'm waiting until I do new tires and wheels to have my alignment professionally done. I got a few more months on this set.
 

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I think he was making a fairly general statement, no need to get upset. I believe the OME springs are roughly an inch longer than stock from eye to eye, and drilling out a couple rivets is simple in the scheme of things. No brainer imo. THIS DOESNT MEAN I DONT THINK YOU HAVE A BRAIN.
 

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85LaredoCJ7,

Isn't it amazing how easily you can make some of this 30-year old crap look nice?

If you realize a specific benefit to the longer shackles when you are done, I may go that route. Until then, I'm pleased with the way the stocks are working.

I'm still pacing the floor waiting for my last (2) shocks to arrive....

Matt
Very exciting. What I immediately noticed was how much better this suspension keeps the tires in constant contact with the road surface, without being too jarring or too soft. Quite a feat.
 

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Thanks!

I haven't had a chance to really max it out yet, so far so good though. I have no doubt that I could probably stuff the tires into my fenders if I really tried. I plan on figuring out what my limit is and then getting my bumpstops set up to keep it clear. I like the stance and the tire size, so I'll work with it.

 

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Thanks Matt... I did look at the Quadratec link but those plates have only one stud... I am trying to find out if I can get them with two studs already welded on. Per previous posts, I am now checking with BDS. I'll post what I find out for others if I find them.
Yeah the Yj spring plates will only work if you have an '82-'86 CJ7 with the shock mount welded to the axle tube. On these the stud on the spring plate will be for the sway bar links only. If you have both the shock and sway bar link mounted to the spring plate on your Jeep, or just shocks and no sway bar links, you will need conversion plates of some flavor.

Also, on the oem YJ plates, the inner set of holes on the driver side will need to be elongated inward using a drill.
 

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85LaredoCJ7,

Beat you to it. TR wasn't in, but I talked to a tech at ARB who told me I'll have to clamp the springs to keep them together, then loosen the centering pin, and I can spin the shim.

Looks like I'll be pulling the front springs this weekend.....

Matt
I wish I could offer some advice on this but I didn't use rear springs all the way around so mine front springs didn't have shims on them. I'm sure I'll find out where I'm at when I get new tires mounted and have my alignment done.

Might have to wait a bit since I'm in the middle of buying a 2011 JK Unlimited for my wife, and I don't know if I'll be able to resist the urge to start bolting parts on it. I always sort of blew off the newer Jeeps, but I gotta tell you they are pretty awesome.
 
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