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X's weren't there yesterday but are today. Sup wit dat?
 

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ok, heres another topic to keep this thread going.

Lets Talk about frame tie ins!
Now some people do what i consider a partial frame tie in. they run the front bars down thru the floor to the frame, then usually mount them withh bushings. this makes sense as the roll cage is still attatched to the body.

Now, my idea is to run all 6 points down thru the body and directly to the frame. I was considering bushings at the tie ins, but i am concerned with the strength of that. My thought is to weld the cage directly to the frame. Now, this should re-inforce the frame and stiffen it up. but since it wont be attatched to the body, this shouldnt create any residual effects like body crack or anything. correct?

what do you think about tie ins?
 

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GROUND POUNDER
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I made rock sliders out of 2"x4" stock and use that to tie the front pillar legs into the frame. My rear portion of the cage is the style that sits on top of the fenderwells. I have another piece of 2x4 bolted up inside the fenderwell with outriggers running down and inward to the frame. I used to have bushings but have since gone to a harder mounting system. The body is just sandwiched between my cage and my tie in points. I don't really care about body cracking anymore.. I'll post up some pics later..
 

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Sold my soul to JeepForum
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Discussion Starter · #145 ·

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I have been pouring over all the info, links, and pictures in this thread and have learned quite a bit. However, I am new to building a roll cage and have a few questions. Bear in mind that I am not doing hill climbing or rock crawling in my present area but I recognize that the stock rollbar on my '78 CJ-7 isn't going to cut it in a rollover.

1. Tie ins. and bolt-ins.

Do the bolt-in cages just bolt to the body? Also I see a lot of tie ins from the frame going up to the body and ending with a plate to which the cage will bolt onto on the other side. This, I think, will be the route I will go but i was wondering if there are any important defects in this design. A set of 4 or more grade 8 bolts would be used in my design to anchor each plate to the other.

2. With the cages that are bolted to the tie ins off the frame, is there a possibility of body stress cracks becoming an issue?

3. Body Seperation
If I get into a serious enough accident, even with my new body bolts and poly bushings, the body may sheer off the frame. My anchor points for my belts and seats then become my concern since if they are attached to the body, I get hurt/killed should the tub and frame part ways. Am I correct in assuming that hte only way to fix this problem is to incorporate the seats and belts into the cage?

4. Design and what is available to me:
I have got this nice stock CJ-7 roll bar in my Jeep right now. I want to keep it where it is but tie it to the frame and add gussets where the tubes meet at the top. Then I want to install a front hoop tied to the frame. Then I plan to install tubing to connect the front and stock rollbar together, which now that I think about it would be similar to a YJ cage. I would incorporate diagonal tubing (triangulation?) to strengthen the cage where ever possible. Can anyone see any possble problems? I think I have covered all the bases, A pillar, B pillar, and strength.

Any input and info is appreciated
 

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GROUND POUNDER
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Seem to have a well thought out plan for a cage. I'm all for incorporating the seat/harness mounts into the cage. I try to tie my cage in thru the sandwich plates at the body like you describe. However, in an extemely violent roll, there is the chance that the body could separate from the frame. If that happens, I want to stay with the cage.
 

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H2 Recovery Team Member
2006 TJ Golden Eagle
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cjjeeper258 said:
I have been pouring over all the info, links, and pictures in this thread and have learned quite a bit. However, I am new to building a roll cage and have a few questions. Bear in mind that I am not doing hill climbing or rock crawling in my present area but I recognize that the stock rollbar on my '78 CJ-7 isn't going to cut it in a rollover.

1. Tie ins. and bolt-ins.

Do the bolt-in cages just bolt to the body? Also I see a lot of tie ins from the frame going up to the body and ending with a plate to which the cage will bolt onto on the other side. This, I think, will be the route I will go but i was wondering if there are any important defects in this design. A set of 4 or more grade 8 bolts would be used in my design to anchor each plate to the other.

2. With the cages that are bolted to the tie ins off the frame, is there a possibility of body stress cracks becoming an issue?

3. Body Seperation
If I get into a serious enough accident, even with my new body bolts and poly bushings, the body may sheer off the frame. My anchor points for my belts and seats then become my concern since if they are attached to the body, I get hurt/killed should the tub and frame part ways. Am I correct in assuming that hte only way to fix this problem is to incorporate the seats and belts into the cage?

4. Design and what is available to me:
I have got this nice stock CJ-7 roll bar in my Jeep right now. I want to keep it where it is but tie it to the frame and add gussets where the tubes meet at the top. Then I want to install a front hoop tied to the frame. Then I plan to install tubing to connect the front and stock rollbar together, which now that I think about it would be similar to a YJ cage. I would incorporate diagonal tubing (triangulation?) to strengthen the cage where ever possible. Can anyone see any possble problems? I think I have covered all the bases, A pillar, B pillar, and strength.

Any input and info is appreciated
1) one thing i can think of that could be a problem with that design of a tie in is if you don't keep the tubes of the tie in and the cage centered over top of each other when bolted together, or at least as close as you can get them. the reason being is that if they're off by say 3 inches or so because it just happened to fit better that way, you can get a twisting effect on the plates when the force of a roll gets transmitted to the plate. think of lifting one end of a board while pushing down on the other end. the tie in tube is the lifting force, the sandwich plates are the board and the cage tube is the downward force. when the two are centered over top of each other the force will pass straight through the body and into the tie in. this is probably intuitive to most people but i just thought i'd throw it out there :thumbsup:

3) definitely try and tie in the seats to the cage. no sense spending all that money and work on a cage only to rely on 4 cheap bolts to hold the seat to the floor.

4) sounds to me like you want something similar to tubeyj's cage.

 

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Wow back from the dead.
 

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BESRK said:
Zach, when ya gonna come down to Crozet and scuff that cage up a bit? :D
I have been talking to Butch at Four Wheel Supply down there and we are looking at June or August. Anything in particular in that time frame that would be best that you would be available? Can't wait to see that area down there.
 

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Holy thread resurection!!! Anyway, I am looking into this for down the road and my only question is, Do any of these cages, for example Zachv's, work with a hard top for the cold months?
 

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Our cage addition kits are designed not to change any critical dimensions so soft and hard tops are not affected if you have stock tops. We did that white cage a few weekends ago and he had an aftermarket hard top that was also a targa top and we had to do some slight modifications to make everything work well.
 

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NWilhelm said:
how about a viking top? they go directly on the roll bars... would that be a problem?
That will still work. The front section will be a little tight on the spreaders, but it will keep them from a flappin in the breeze.

BTW, ;) ;) , we are Viking dealers, so if you don't have that top yet we can hook you up.:cool:
 
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