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FunkSkunk said:
and the carnage........... :brickwall Tierra Del Sol Safari --> http://www.pirate4x4.com/trailreports/tds_buildup05/index.html
I was camping with this guy. Honestly, it wasnt his fault. he bought the CJ as is and the guy he bought it from was the one who put this cage in. He was night wheeling in the notches and went *** end over the nose. the cut you see is from when the tin benders started cutting a badly bent cross piece out so he could wheel it the rest of the weekend
 

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I'll be doing my cage soon as well. Just wiating for my custom fuel cell to be finished. Should be another week or two i think. I've got lots of ideas already, but will probably borrow a few from this thread as well. And i will post pics when its done.

I have a good theoretical to get the thread going again though. Which is better:
A front hoop, like the stock one that goes from side to side at the windshield
Or
Front spreaders that go from the B pillar to the windshield and down through the floor that way?
and why is it better?

My plan is to build off the stock B pillar and rear section. I have already kind of started with a few pieces I added here and there.
 

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I saw pics once of a currie TJ with a Halo cage that had rolled. lets just say it wasn't pretty. the cage bgasically collapsed on itself. and the Currie rig had more bracing and triangulation than the halo design pictured above.
 

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tube yj said:
I agree, i was responding to the hint the other poster gave that my cage did not have as much triangulation as the currie failed cage. So my point is that alot of people like to toss the term out in posts without knowing that much about cage design.
I wasn't trying to bash your cage. (is that a pun?) I was simply stating that i have seen pictures of a similar cage that failed in the past. the bottom line is that nobody can really say what kind of cage will work best for someones application. Even if we wheel the same trails, we all have different wheeling styles. However, one thing i do know is that you are more likely to roll over to either side of the vehicle, then the next most likely roll over scenerio is over backwards, like in a hill climb. the least likely, but still VERY possible roll over scenario would be an end over hood or forward roll over.

Bearing this in mind, I think thew bear minimal is to have your cage set up to easily handle a side roll over. I will be building my cage within the next month and I will be setting it up to brace against impacts and stress points that would result from a side roll over, and from a hood over *** rollover. with some attention paid to an *** over hood roll.
 

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ok, heres another topic to keep this thread going.

Lets Talk about frame tie ins!
Now some people do what i consider a partial frame tie in. they run the front bars down thru the floor to the frame, then usually mount them withh bushings. this makes sense as the roll cage is still attatched to the body.

Now, my idea is to run all 6 points down thru the body and directly to the frame. I was considering bushings at the tie ins, but i am concerned with the strength of that. My thought is to weld the cage directly to the frame. Now, this should re-inforce the frame and stiffen it up. but since it wont be attatched to the body, this shouldnt create any residual effects like body crack or anything. correct?

what do you think about tie ins?
 

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Pirate just posted these up of a rollover that happened at 43rd annual TDS event. Just another dumby that thought it would be good to build a cage out of pipe.. :confused:
I have to sort of defend this one as this was actually a buddy of mine and i was at camp with him when this happened. He did not install or make that cage. the previous owner he bought the CJ from had done it. Basically Neil ended up accidentally driving it off a vertical wall. It failed yes, but he was completely unharmed. he took it over to the tinbenders booth and they cut it out for him and he wheeled it the rest of the weekend, duct taped his windshield back in to drive it home and he now has a new DOM cage we helped him build

edit: Wow, guess i posted this story back a page or so after that. Been forever and i forgot I posted it. disregard.

Now to add something useful, I just ordered up the new Blue Torch Fab YJ Sport Cage kit

http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/1302/BTF-Jeep-YJ-Front-Sport-Cage-Kit.aspx

should be in next week and I can finally start my cage project. gonna pick up some more DOM and add some components (seat mounts etc) but i think this will be a good foundation for me to build off of
 

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Where is this post on Pirate? I couldnt find it. I was at TDS and heard about this rollover, but i never got a chance to see the jeep
lol, it wasnt pretty. i think there is a link to the pirate thread back on like page 4 or 5 of this thread. It was actually my first TDS, I rolled into camp to see that crushed windshield at like 2 am and wondered what I had gotten myself into. Poor Neil has never lived that cage down since. it failed but as I said, it did do its job and protect him as he walked away unscathed by the very bad roll.
 

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I just ordered the new Blue Torch Fab Sport cage kit for my YJ to use as a foundation. the kit comes with plates to go on the upper spreaders to attach to the windshield in a similar manner as they do to the stock spreaders.
 

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well I just finished getting my Blue Torch Fab YJ Sport Cage kit mocked in and mostly welded. Still have to go pick up some DOM for the additions I want to make and get those in before I can pull the whole cage out to do the finish welding (the areas I cant get to because things are in the way like the dash or areas I would have had to weld at oddball working angles).

However while working on it, I came up with a question. What are you guys using to smooth out your welds in tight areas that a standard 4.5" flap disc cant really get into?
 

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Why are you smoothing welds? A proper weld is a thing of beauty and should be proudly displayed. Ugly welds are usually too cold and may not be safe anyway. Grinding welds makes them weaker usually, too.
well one in particular, i had turned the gas bottle off and forgot to turn the gas back on before starting the pass. Made the pass in the tight area and noticed the uglyness. Thought I had run out of gas then remembered I had turned it off. so yeah, that weld i would like to pretty up in particular. It was also a bit windy so I have a few dongles in a couple of spots from my gas getting blown around on me:thumbdown:
 

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Here is the start of my cage. I spent a lot of time researching the various add on cage kits on the market and decided to go with the new sport cage kit from Blue Torch Fabworks to use as the base for my build. for the price it was the most complete kit. I got the kit in a few days ago, and on first inspection, it lived up to Blue Torches reputation and quality.

Now, many years ago when I didn't know any better, I had removed the factory spreaders and replaced them with a homebrew sport cage made of, well, not good material at all. A combination of pipe and glorified exhaust tube for the spreaders. Lets just say I've been very lucky to have never rolled with it. So the first order of business was to remove the components from my overhead console and cut out the old crap. I started with a 4.5" cut off disc, but quickly realized it would take me all day. So out came the Plasma cutter which made short work of removing the old bars







Then I used a cut off wheel, grinding disc, and flap disc to remove the leftovers from the B pillar and smooth it all out. Then the installation of the new could begin. Here you can see the difference between what I had, and the new 1.75"x.120 wall DOM in the kit



First thing to be fit was the windshield spreader on the passenger side. I removed the old plate from the windshield, installed the one from the kit, ground down the original header support tube so the new bar would slide over it nicely and ended up having to motivate it up a little with a BFH. Blue Torch says to remove these, but I felt it couldn't hurt to have a little extra support at the B pillar joint so I decided to leave them as slugs instead.



Next I had to mock in the A pillar down tube. I slid it in with the foot plate and decided where I wanted it, tacked the foot plate to the bottom of the tube and pulled it out to finish welding the 1/4" floor plate to the bottom of the A-pillar tube, then I set the A pillar back in, marked the bolt holes and drilled them. Mounted the foot to the floor and welded the top to the spreader.





the A pillar follows the dash very nicely!!

 

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At this point I repeated the same process on the passenger side. The next step was the dash bar which dropped right into place like butter. Couple quick passes and its welded in at the front and top. When i am done with my additions I will remove the entire cage so I can do the finish welding and get to the bottom and back of the dash bar and the other area I couldn't get to or get to comfortably to get a good weld on it.

After the dash bar was in I went to install the top spreader from A to A. this was the only bar I had to modify a little bit to get in, but looking back It was because I had gotten ahead of myself. I should have put the dash bar and the header bar in prior to welding the windshield plates and it would have fit no problem. So I had to cut it down a touch to get it to fit. Once that was resting in, I measured and set in the middle B to A header spreader bars. When everything was where I wanted it I burned it all in. Since I am not done with the additions I just threw a coat of weld thru primer on the whole thing and called it a day. In some pics you will see areas that were not finished welding, again due to my dislike of welding upside down or having to work at an akward angle. these joints will be done when I remove the cage.














Overall the Blue Torch kit was just fantastic to put in. everything was cut and notched perfectly. Some instructions or at least suggestions as to what order to do everything in would have been nice, but it is a DIY kit, so.

Still to be done and added to the cage:
windshield V bars
Seat and harness mounts
Door bars
Some additions to the factory rear section
X bar on the B pillar
Lower B to C bars
C to C bar
Rearview Mirror mount on the cage
Overhead console in the spreaders
mount plate on the dash bar for a RAM mount base for GPS and such
 

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thanks to green92yj i ordered the btf sport kit, ill be doing my own thing in the rear.Ive been wanting a cage for awhile and now its going to happen.
You won't be disappointed. BTF is gonna have to start paying me soon. I keep buying more and more of their stuff. Their quality and fit and finish is top notch. Hve a set of their comp cut corners coming in this week:thumbsup:
 

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Makes you 1 with the cage for say and if the cage was to shift from the tub it would not matterbecause not matter what youd be going where the cage/safety goes

at least thats how it was explained to me?
Yeah more or less that is the basic idea. Its also better to have seats and harnesses mounted to the same structure. I.e. Both to the cage, not seats to thin body sheet metal and harnesses to beefy tube of the roll cage. In my case it will also allow me to set the seats at exactly the height I want them for best visibility, comfort, and overhead protection.
 

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hey guys i was thinking about putting something similar to an early yj cage in my cj5

what do you think?
You mean the factory roll bar? If so that's not a cage. That's a roll bar. Honestly won't do you too much good in the event of a major roll
 

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Well I just got back from my local IMS. got a major score on DOM. its dropped in price a lot! got it for $1.25 cheaper per foot then I was quoted about a month ago.

Picked up 34 feet of 1.75" .120 (they were selling it in 17 foot lengths so I bought 2) for $4.25 a foot and I grabbed another 34 feet of 1.25" .120 for $3.48 a foot. Time to start cutting and notching!
 

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Well I'm making some good progress on my cage. Started with the Blue Torch DIY Sport Cage kit as a base. then added on to it. Still need to do some more gussets, harness mount tabs, frame tie ins, Windshield V bars, need to yank it to do the finished welding and paint, etc. but heres what I have so far:













All pics of cage work so far are here:
http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c313/92greenyj/Roll Cage/
 

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Did a little more work on my cage today. Added the Windshield V bars and made a little gusset to double as my rearview mirror mount






 

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Well the hinge issue can easily be addressed by not mounting the bushings in the same plane. This is my plan for mine. Basically you would just need to have the bushings mounted at different angles so they would not hinge on you. Though bear in mind it would take a pretty catastrophic failure for that to happen in the first place, so if your cage were to hinge out on you I would imagine you would have other things to worry about at that point.
 

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Well, the last tome I posted in this thread was back on page 44 with my BTF sport cage kit add on.

YJ has changed quite a bit since then and I am now starting on a brand new scratch built cage. Today was the first day on it and first time on the new to me bender. Didn't get too far as my notcher isn't arriving until tomorrow. But I got the B pillar hoop bent and mocked into place.









There will obviously be much more to come.
 
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