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New to the forum - looking to get my dad's old CJ running again for the farm.

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Hey there - new to the group, hopefully going to be getting my dad's old Jeep running and driving again in the next few months. I know nothing about Jeeps, but am an otherwise experienced mechanic. These photos are from 2009 and are the only ones I could find handy. It's been sitting in our barn since then and needs quite a bit of maintenance. From what I remember the brakes are dead and it needs a new fuel supply. (It has had a boat tank hooked up in the past)

I'll probably be investigating it this weekend to see if it'll crank and whether it needs any wiring help. Fingers crossed it's not locked after all this time. Any tips or tricks about what I have here would be more than welcome!

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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
After some research I decided to purchase a new Solex-type carburetor on eBay. Cost me $128 from a seller located in Arkansas, they're all inspected and tested before shipping. I was planning to rebuild the Carter YF (and I probably still will) but with rebuild kits in the $50 range and never having rebuilt a carburetor I figured I'd try one of these first. My engine runs a lot better with the Pertronix ignition, but it still misfires and backfires quite a bit in addition to the leaking. It also seems to run really rich with some really intense fumes and sometimes white smoke if I try to hammer down on it. I know some people prefer the Carter for various reasons, but I'm sure I'll be happy either way as long as it runs better. Any opinions?

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Rebuild the YF, from what I have seen of your work in this thread, you have no reason to be scared to do it, I think I did the first rebuild on mine at 17 y.o. They are dead simple, just make sure you get all of the parts back in their original location. Set the idle mixture 1-1/2 turns out to start and then make your fine tuning. You may want to pull the valve cover and sideplate and watch to see if you have a sticky valve that is contributing to your misfires and backfires. Wouldn't hurt to run the valve/rocker clearances to make sure everything is opening and closing as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
The Solex finally showed up over the weekend. I'll try to rebuild the Carter at some point, but so far I'm very impressed with the Solex. Took about 30 minutes to swap over, the most annoying part was getting the fuel line to start in the fitting. I had to cut about an inch off the outside of the choke cable to have enough room for it to reach the lever. Pretty much fired right up and was a breeze to dial in the idle ratio and speed. Immediately noticed much smoother running and acceleration, more power, less smoke, and less crazy-rich smelling exhaust. Haven't climbed the hill with it yet, but I anticipate it not missing really badly anymore.

Only other thing I had to do was grind some material out of the bottom of the throttle rod hole in the floor pan. The gas pedal was originally rusted out of the floorboard completely, so we just had to mount it to a separate piece of flat steel and screw it down. I'll probably have to grind out some more because I still feel like it's not getting full travel.
 

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Back to the pool ball shifter knobs--I found by talking to the owner of the pool room that he pays more for one or two balls than an entire home use set costs. Found that you can buy a set for according to Google from $19.99 up. He said he would like to see what the final product looks like when I order from you. My conflict is still what am color(s) I am going to use when I paint it after I get the new FG tub this coming summer. Decisions, decisions, decisions...
 

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Hey there - new to the group, hopefully going to be getting my dad's old Jeep running and driving again in the next few months. I know nothing about Jeeps, but am an otherwise experienced mechanic. These photos are from 2009 and are the only ones I could find handy. It's been sitting in our barn since then and needs quite a bit of maintenance. From what I remember the brakes are dead and it needs a new fuel supply. (It has had a boat tank hooked up in the past)

I'll probably be investigating it this weekend to see if it'll crank and whether it needs any wiring help. Fingers crossed it's not locked after all this time. Any tips or tricks about what I have here would be more than welcome!
Hey there - new to the group, hopefully going to be getting my dad's old Jeep running and driving again in the next few months. I know nothing about Jeeps, but am an otherwise experienced mechanic. These photos are from 2009 and are the only ones I could find handy. It's been sitting in our barn since then and needs quite a bit of maintenance. From what I remember the brakes are dead and it needs a new fuel supply. (It has had a boat tank hooked up in the past)

I'll probably be investigating it this weekend to see if it'll crank and whether it needs any wiring help. Fingers crossed it's not locked after all this time. Any tips or tricks about what I have here would be more than welcome!
You are my Hero !! Anyone who saves a Jeep, is my Hero !!! You have come to the right place for advise, you will find people here who simply, LOVE JEEPS !!! I want to introduce you to Rule No 1 for you project....... Get in running first. ( Do not forget the brakes ). Then, Once you got it running, you work on the Mechanics of the Jeep to make it 100% mechanically sound, 100% Stock will be your best investment moneywise. Leave the cosmetics for last, leave the seat covers for the very last. Regardless of how it looks now, a Jeep is a Jeep, and will never die. And rule No 2, do not stop it ever, unless, you take it to a Pro Paint Shop that will finish it once it’s started. I have seen one too many dismantled discontinued Jeep projects because people ant them perfect in one step, get it running, perfect mechanically, then, only then think of looks and beauty. Take this from a person who has restored a few. Please ask questions, we’ll be here for you all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
A completely random update, but the Jeep has proven itself very useful around the farm over the last few months. It's just so easy to hop in and run do chores, pull out stuff, etc. One of my dad's buddies left this little "load hog" four-wheeler trailer in our barn so I hooked it up for some brush removal. And of course my little buddy wanted to hop in and ride very first thing. :cool:
Tire Wheel Plant Land vehicle Vehicle


Then we went down to our creek and dislodged an old bathtub that's been there for as long as I can remember. I had to cut up a couple of dead trees and some saplings to even get to it, but it was a fun adventure. I ended up tearing off one of the front flexible brake lines in the process, it just broke right off with all the rust on it. I'm gonna try to replace both of them this weekend, I already have the new ones in from Kaiser Willy's.

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Plant Plant community Natural landscape Botany Terrestrial plant
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Well it seems my F134 is burning about as much oil as it is gas. (not really) It does leave a very noticeable blue exhaust trail everywhere it goes though. Anybody got some hot tips for maybe loosening the rings up some more? I put about a quart of MMO in the crankcase and gas tank just to see if it does anything. Might try pulling the plugs and soaking the cylinders in ATF for about a week.
 

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Sure it is rings?

What are compression readings on each cylinder?

Keep driving it, and if stuck ring, it might free up?

Maybe bleed down from valve seals?

Gets worse after warmed up or big puff on start up?

What kind of pressure do you have at the PCV?

Just some thoughts as valve seals much easier to replace than rings :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
I've literally done no diagnosis at all, so I guess I could start with a compression check. lol Doesn't seem to get worse when it's warm, but doesn't get better either.
 
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