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Nice and I'm thinking about it. I only need two balls. My only hold up is I wear a gold class ring on my right hand and have for 50 years. I used to keep the OEM knob painted but kept scratching it off with the ring.

I was considering making some out of pool balls--color coordinated with the Jeep if i ever decide what the future color will be. I have source for the balls and a plan to thread them but no way to do the engraving. Can you work with any other medium?
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
Nice and I'm thinking about it. I only need two balls. My only hold up is I wear a gold class ring on my right hand and have for 50 years. I used to keep the OEM knob painted but kept scratching it off with the ring.

I was considering making some out of pool balls--color coordinated with the Jeep if i ever decide what the future color will be. I have source for the balls and a plan to thread them but no way to do the engraving. Can you work with any other medium?
For sure, I can work with pretty much anything. If you want to get your pool balls together I'd be happy to thread and engrave them for you here at the shop. $5 each to drill and tap them and then $25 each to engrave. Never worked on a pool ball before but I'd be interested to try. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
My plan was to drill a hole big enough to epoxy one of these into the ball. Everbilt 1/4 in.-20 TPI Zinc Rod Coupling Nuts-822251 - The Home Depot
Just curious, but I'm guessing you were going to use the 5/16-24 instead of the 1/4-20? The T90 and Dana 18 should both have 5/16-24 threads on the shifter unless you have something else.

It's super hard to drill a ball in the dead center unless you have at least a drill press and a vise of some sort. It's made of resin and plastic though, I imagine it would drill and tap rather nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
For what it's worth, I had a the black 8 ball and 3 red pool balls on my '83 cj7, my brother in law cut the threads in directly on his cnc machine and they worked very well

Hoss
Looks good in there! For whatever reason I've never considered messing around with pool balls until today. At 2.25" diameter they should be very comfy. I found three random numbers from an eBay seller for $12 so I bought them. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
On a separate note, I still have a pretty significant oil leak around my rear axle yoke. I replaced the seal again and it didn't improve anything. There's not a wear line on the yoke shaft either. It slides in and rotates smoothly and feels like there's plenty of contact. Suggestions?
 

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Just curious, but I'm guessing you were going to use the 5/16-24 instead of the 1/4-20? The T90 and Dana 18 should both have 5/16-24 threads on the shifter unless you have something else.

It's super hard to drill a ball in the dead center unless you have at least a drill press and a vise of some sort. It's made of resin and plastic though, I imagine it would drill and tap rather nicely.
To be honest with you I don't know what thread sizes I'll need. I have a T14 and a D300. I'd ask but knowing this Jeep like I do it would be a different size than anyone else's. Before committing I'd double check with a nut. The problem I foresee is how to get the old knobs off. There is no retaining nut. I can't break it loose by hand or with a strap wrench. My friend's son used a pipe wrench to grip the ball and a second to hold the shifter below the threads and broke his off at the thread line. How did you get yours off?

You and Hoss seem to think that the ball is substantial enough to thread. Hoss usually is dead on in his advice unless he has had more than one Dog beer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
To be honest with you I don't know what thread sizes I'll need. I have a T14 and a D300. I'd ask but knowing this Jeep like I do it would be a different size than anyone else's. Before committing I'd double check with a nut. The problem I foresee is how to get the old knobs off. There is no retaining nut. I can't break it loose by hand or with a strap wrench. My friend's son used a pipe wrench to grip the ball and a second to hold the shifter below the threads and broke his off at the thread line. How did you get yours off?

You and Hoss seem to think that the ball is substantial enough to thread. Hoss usually is dead on in his advice unless he has had more than one Dog beer.
One of my T-case knobs threaded right off, the other one I had to break loose with Channellocks. Maybe try to shoot some Kroil up there from the bottom edge and see if that helps loosen it up a bit.

Yeah, I feel solid about it. I just ordered a couple of cheap balls myself to try it out on. haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
My balls came in and I made a little fixture to hold them while I drill, just because I'm particular like that. :p

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It was a little powdery when I cut it, but it drilled and tapped just fine. Now I need to try engraving one to see how it turns out.
 

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On a separate note, I still have a pretty significant oil leak around my rear axle yoke. I replaced the seal again and it didn't improve anything. There's not a wear line on the yoke shaft either. It slides in and rotates smoothly and feels like there's plenty of contact. Suggestions?
Sounds like you are having venting issues and keep blowing out the seal. Early housings have a vent in the cover, it does not look like your rear cover has a vent built in.


So next is to check the housing as the end of the run of the tapered housings had a small vent hole on the back side of one of the tubes. It stayed this way until they went to the vent bolt at the brake line T in the later housings.

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
Sounds like you are having venting issues and keep blowing out the seal. Early housings have a vent in the cover, it does not look like your rear cover has a vent built in.


So next is to check the housing as the end of the run of the tapered housings had a small vent hole on the back side of one of the tubes. It stayed this way until they went to the vent bolt at the brake line T in the later housings.

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I'll definitely look into that - but for what it's worth, it had still leaked a bit on the ground after I had changed the seal last time and before I drove it.
 

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Might be leaking between the splines of the pinion and the yoke splines. Some will paint the yoke splines with liquid ptfe pipe thread sealant before sliding the yoke on and it should seal that part up and keep you from getting leaks if the main seal is good and it was still leaking.
 

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I'd like to make a suggestion about the pool balls. Move the drill point 90* and drill into the white. Doing it that way you would engrave also in the white and the number wouldn't be obscured and would be visible in all gears. I'm going to the pool room for lunch tomorrow and see what balls they have available.

You may just need to clean out the vent hole. Tip cleaners for a torch may do the trip. The pressure is going to follow the path of least resistance which may be the seal. Do you have any idea how much gear oil is leaking out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
No turn it 90* to the right so that the 5 is visible in second or third gear no matter the transmission.
Gotcha. Seeing the number isn't really important to me, but I can see why people would get them just on that account. Lol

Tried engraving one and it worked out really great.

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