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They probably won't leak much until they do and then you'll have differential oil everywhere including your brake shoes. Then you'll have an unsafe to drive vehicle. Why take a chance? You have it apart so fix/repair everything. We must remember that when you have a Jeep Murphy is alive and well, and shows up at the most inopportune time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
After a couple hours of heating and beating I got the front and rear yokes and oil seals out. They were both worn down to the spring. Lol

After some research I'm fairly certain both yoke nuts need to be torqued down to about 150 ft/lbs. But after cinching up the rear yoke with the impact and not getting it very tight it's noticeably harder to turn, and it doesn't feel like there's any gap between the gears. Is this just due to how tight the new seal is?
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Dana pinion preloads are set prior to installing the seal. You should tighten the yoke sans seal. The rotational torque should be smooth with a slight drag and no end play. Don't confuse pinion preload with the pinion rotational torque including the carrier rotation. If the pinion preload isn't right, add or subtract shims till you get it. Once it is right, then install the seal.
 
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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Dana pinion preloads are set prior to installing the seal. You should tighten the yoke sans seal. The rotational torque should be smooth with a slight drag and no end play. Don't confuse pinion preload with the pinion rotational torque including the carrier rotation. If the pinion preload isn't right, add or subtract shims till you get it. Once it is right, then install the seal.
Well if I were going to do that I'd have to pull the new seal, test it, and then use another. Nothing has been touched though, I can't imagine the preload needs to be changed. I'm sure all the drag I feel is just the new seal against the yoke. As soon as it's in contact with the seal I can feel the drag.

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Don't forget to put a dab of grease on the seal lip.
 
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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Don't forget to put a dab of grease on the seal lip.
That's pretty much the only thing I forgot to do. Haha

I pulled the yoke back off and rubbed some gear oil in there. Put it back in, torqued to 150 ft/lbs and it feels a lot better. Sometimes it's the simple things.

Got the rear driveshaft back on the yoke and changed the rear t-case oil seal. Put the fancy retro carpet back in along with the ragged seats. Pretty much just waiting on another ~$600 in parts to show up.
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Be sure to clean the area around the shims so no grit falls behind there when you reinstall them.
Be sure to check the yoke vertical play before you move on. It isn't uncommon to get a little wear in the bearings. A touch of vertical movement will cause the new seal to leak again. If you get some, remove the thinnest shim and check again.
I'm impressed with how the carpet matches the paint, good planning there........
 
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Discussion Starter · #109 · (Edited)
Got the front inner differential seals removed yesterday. It's a good thing I'm changing them I think, there doesn't appear to be much left of them!

Brought some items to the machine shop with me this morning to take care of. I can't really do anything with the stock oil bath air cleaner, so I picked up one of those specter air filters from O'Reilly's yesterday. I made an aluminum adapter to mate it up with the stock air tube, and added a pipe thread for the breather hose.

My brake pedal has a lot of side to side play, so I set it up in the mill and opened it up to 1.100" to remove the egg shape. I made a stainless bushing to go inside to get it nice and smooth.

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
And this just in - $30 for a Delco Remy alternator from an 86 Chevy S10, complete with cables and harness. Even grabbed a couple extra battery cables to run to my fuse box.

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Not that you aren't already committed, but could you 'gut' the stock air filter and just replace the insides with a quality paper filter?

I frequented a ford flathead forum when I had my '51, and quite a few people did this with good results

Hoss
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Not that you aren't already committed, but could you 'gut' the stock air filter and just replace the insides with a quality paper filter?

I frequented a ford flathead forum when I had my '51, and quite a few people did this with good results

Hoss
Good idea! Might have to give that a shot later on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
I'm pretty satisfied with how this part turned out.
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I'm pretty satisfied with how this part turned out. View attachment 4129589

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No offense, but I despise oiled gauze style filters. They don't do a good job filtering out fine dust and servicing is a chore. I know you already purchased it, but a swap to a dry paper filter would give better results. Otherwise you may think of an impregnated foam filter sleeve over the "K&N".
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
No offense, but I despise oiled gauze style filters. They don't do a good job filtering out fine dust and servicing is a chore. I know you already purchased it, but a swap to a dry paper filter would give better results. Otherwise you may think of an impregnated foam filter sleeve over the "K&N".
Oh, I know you're right. It's a cheap and easy fix for now though. Later on I'll pull a filter box off something else and make it work.

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Nice job on bushing the pedals, by the way..........+
 
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Discussion Starter · #117 · (Edited)
Today's adventures - removing the old knuckle seals, drilling out and retapping the bolts I broke off on the rear differential housing, and putting on the shiny new alternator pulley from speedway motors.

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
So I had a bit of a mixup with the front U-joint I ordered. Kaiser Willy's website had a u joint listed for the front axle through 1966, but it was far too large. After more investigation I believe I have the right one coming now.

Also had to order two new front hub inner grease seals because I pushed them too deep without realizing. :rolleyes:

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
I got my new alternator mostly bolted up last night, and this bracket is a HUGE pita. Took me about two hours of messing with it before getting it all spaced right. You can purchase them here, but I bought it from Kaiser Willy's due to the better combined shipping.


But now that the lower bracket is on I'll have to heat and bend the top factory support to work somehow. Those darn bypass oil filter lines are completely in the way too.

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