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Thanks for the replies there - guess I'll go with the 5 leaf set just for the better ride. You're right, not gonna doing a ton of hard work with it. Might load up the back with some wood on occasion is probably about it.
So, I mentioned I'd give a little more background info. Dad came over to take a look the day I got out if out of the barn and was definitely happy to see it running again. Said it felt like the old days. lol
At 19 years old, my dad bought this jeep in 1976. He drove it in and out of the hollow they lived in to get to work. The following winter he completely flipped it over in the snow and got injured pretty badly. The windshield broke and cut through his jacket, leaving a gnarly scar on his forearm. He had some other injures as well, but fortunately recovered quickly. The Jeep ran upside down for a bit before he got it shut off, which apparently damaged the crankshaft. The next spring he completely rebuilt the engine with the help of his friend, a diesel mechanic who spent time in Vietnam. He recalled the confusion they had on the distributor rotation, and after finding out it turns counter-clockwise the engine fired right up.
I don't know if it's obvious or not, but we're really just doing the bare-minimum to get it running and driving for now. (Brakes, fluids, broken parts, etc.) As long as I know we won't burn up a differential or something I'll be happy. It's for that reason I'm just going to replace the rear springs and leave the front alone until I think they need changing. We probably won't ever get it aligned (unless we do it ourselves with a tape measure) just because we'll only be using it off-road. I do want to inspect the front end thoroughly and be sure to grease all the components. I'm sure it'll be easy to do when we take all the wheels off for the brake hardware.
I'm currently searching out these answers, but... what are the preferred fluids for the Transmission and T-case? It seems they share oil, or at least started sharing oil after a certain point. (Model CJ-2A S/N 24196, which is 1946?) I'm not afraid to splurge on high-quality synthetics. The FSM calls for SAE 80/90 GL4 gear lube in the Borg Warner T90 and D18. I have a few quarts of Royal Purple 75-90 gear oil leftover from when I changed the oil in my Dodge Ram 2500, and according to the website it's safe for yellow metals and synchronizers.
I'll just top off the front and rear differentials to make sure there aren't any leaky seals before I completely drain and clean them.
So, I mentioned I'd give a little more background info. Dad came over to take a look the day I got out if out of the barn and was definitely happy to see it running again. Said it felt like the old days. lol
At 19 years old, my dad bought this jeep in 1976. He drove it in and out of the hollow they lived in to get to work. The following winter he completely flipped it over in the snow and got injured pretty badly. The windshield broke and cut through his jacket, leaving a gnarly scar on his forearm. He had some other injures as well, but fortunately recovered quickly. The Jeep ran upside down for a bit before he got it shut off, which apparently damaged the crankshaft. The next spring he completely rebuilt the engine with the help of his friend, a diesel mechanic who spent time in Vietnam. He recalled the confusion they had on the distributor rotation, and after finding out it turns counter-clockwise the engine fired right up.
I don't know if it's obvious or not, but we're really just doing the bare-minimum to get it running and driving for now. (Brakes, fluids, broken parts, etc.) As long as I know we won't burn up a differential or something I'll be happy. It's for that reason I'm just going to replace the rear springs and leave the front alone until I think they need changing. We probably won't ever get it aligned (unless we do it ourselves with a tape measure) just because we'll only be using it off-road. I do want to inspect the front end thoroughly and be sure to grease all the components. I'm sure it'll be easy to do when we take all the wheels off for the brake hardware.
I'm currently searching out these answers, but... what are the preferred fluids for the Transmission and T-case? It seems they share oil, or at least started sharing oil after a certain point. (Model CJ-2A S/N 24196, which is 1946?) I'm not afraid to splurge on high-quality synthetics. The FSM calls for SAE 80/90 GL4 gear lube in the Borg Warner T90 and D18. I have a few quarts of Royal Purple 75-90 gear oil leftover from when I changed the oil in my Dodge Ram 2500, and according to the website it's safe for yellow metals and synchronizers.
I'll just top off the front and rear differentials to make sure there aren't any leaky seals before I completely drain and clean them.
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