[Chowlie]

After a couple hours of heating and beating I got the front and rear yokes and oil seals out. They were both worn down to the spring. Lol

After some research I'm fairly certain both yoke nuts need to be torqued down to about 150 ft/lbs. But after cinching up the rear yoke with the impact and not getting it very tight it's noticeably harder to turn, and it doesn't feel like there's any gap between the gears. Is this just due to how tight the new seal is?

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[Chowlie]

Dana pinion preloads are set prior to installing the seal. You should tighten the yoke sans seal. The rotational torque should be smooth with a slight drag and no end play. Don't confuse pinion preload with the pinion rotational torque including the carrier rotation. If the pinion preload isn't right, add or subtract shims till you get it. Once it is right, then install the seal.

Well if I were going to do that I'd have to pull the new seal, test it, and then use another. Nothing has been touched though, I can't imagine the preload needs to be changed. I'm sure all the drag I feel is just the new seal against the yoke. As soon as it's in contact with the seal I can feel the drag.

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[Chowlie]

Don't forget to put a dab of grease on the seal lip.

That's pretty much the only thing I forgot to do. Haha

I pulled the yoke back off and rubbed some gear oil in there. Put it back in, torqued to 150 ft/lbs and it feels a lot better. Sometimes it's the simple things. [emoji854]

Got the rear driveshaft back on the yoke and changed the rear t-case oil seal. Put the fancy retro carpet back in along with the ragged seats. Pretty much just waiting on another ~$600 in parts to show up.

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[Chowlie]

Got the front inner differential seals removed yesterday. It's a good thing I'm changing them I think, there doesn't appear to be much left of them!

Brought some items to the machine shop with me this morning to take care of. I can't really do anything with the stock oil bath air cleaner, so I picked up one of those specter air filters from O'Reilly's yesterday. I made an aluminum adapter to mate it up with the stock air tube, and added a pipe thread for the breather hose.

My brake pedal has a lot of side to side play, so I set it up in the mill and opened it up to 1.100" to remove the egg shape. I made a stainless bushing to go inside to get it nice and smooth.

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[Chowlie]

And this just in - $30 for a Delco Remy alternator from an 86 Chevy S10, complete with cables and harness. Even grabbed a couple extra battery cables to run to my fuse box.

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[Chowlie]

Not that you aren't already committed, but could you 'gut' the stock air filter and just replace the insides with a quality paper filter?

I frequented a ford flathead forum when I had my '51, and quite a few people did this with good results

Hoss

Good idea! Might have to give that a shot later on.

 

[Chowlie]

I'm pretty satisfied with how this part turned out.

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[Chowlie]

No offense, but I despise oiled gauze style filters. They don't do a good job filtering out fine dust and servicing is a chore. I know you already purchased it, but a swap to a dry paper filter would give better results. Otherwise you may think of an impregnated foam filter sleeve over the "K&N".

Oh, I know you're right. It's a cheap and easy fix for now though. Later on I'll pull a filter box off something else and make it work.

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[Chowlie]

Today's adventures - removing the old knuckle seals, drilling out and retapping the bolts I broke off on the rear differential housing, and putting on the shiny new alternator pulley from speedway motors.

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[Chowlie]

So I had a bit of a mixup with the front U-joint I ordered. Kaiser Willy's website had a u joint listed for the front axle through 1966, but it was far too large. After more investigation I believe I have the right one coming now.

Also had to order two new front hub inner grease seals because I pushed them too deep without realizing.

 

[Chowlie]

I got my new alternator mostly bolted up last night, and this bracket is a HUGE pita. Took me about two hours of messing with it before getting it all spaced right. You can purchase them here, but I bought it from Kaiser Willy's due to the better combined shipping.

A200, Universal Alternator Bracket, Generator to Alternator Conversion

Universal Alternator Bracket to install Delco, Ford and Chrysler alternators in place of generators that have 2 mounting ears. Ideal for agricultural industrial and older vehicles. Bolts to existing 2 ear generator mounting bracket. With hardware.

store.alternatorparts.com

But now that the lower bracket is on I'll have to heat and bend the top factory support to work somehow. Those darn bypass oil filter lines are completely in the way too.

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[Chowlie]

Just a few progress pics.

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[Chowlie]

Got some wiring done today. Figured out the headlights are still good, trimmed my 194 bulb holder to fit in the stock "amp" light socket, and installed toggles. Hopefully getting back to finishing the drivetrain tomorrow.

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[Chowlie]

Original odometer?

Yes it is. Hasn't worked in no telling how long either.

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[Chowlie]

We're mostly finished up now, just down to bleeding the brakes and taking care of some minor bits.

As soon as I filled the transfer case I noticed the front output shaft seal was leaking slightly. I figured I'd have to change it, guess I'll just do it later.

I discovered upon swapping the engine pulley that the main seal is shot. I have a new one coming, gonna see just how bad it leaks before changing it.

Had a bit of difficulty with the rear axle - I ended up warping the left side bearing retainer plate while using it to pull the bearing race in. I feel like it tightened down pretty flat, but I'm gonna order a new one and change it later. Better safe than sorry. I also couldn't get the right axle out of the tube with the tools I had so I left it in place. I'll have to go back and change that inner seal at a later time as well. When I put everything back together I discovered that there was too much play in the outer axle bearings, so I removed the thinnest preload shim. After reassembly and smashing each side a few times with my dead blow I have about .003" of play on each side.

Due to removing the oil bath air filter I improvised an aluminum bracket to attach my throttle return spring.

After fussing with it for over an hour I finally got the upper alternator bracket twisted around like a pretzel so it would fit the new alternator.

And I suppose lastly, we broke a brake adjuster bolt on the front trying to get it loose. So, couple of new ones coming.

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[Chowlie]

Your brake shoes are on backwards. Short shoe in front, long shoe in back.

Dammit, I knew I should've just looked it up first. [emoji2359]

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[Chowlie]

Just got back from a successful test run!

We got the front brakes bled but the rears wouldn't get any fluid. I'm going to change the longest line running from the T fitting at the front all the way to the flex line in the rear. I'm assuming something has it stopped up.

I was able to rig up a clamp for the end of the emergency brake cable, and that whole assembly is working properly.

The alternator functioned perfectly the whole time. Showing about 15 volts while charging at any RPM over idle. The indicator light works great too.

There was no indication of an oil leak at the front main seal at all even though I yanked out the metal spring. Guess I'll keep driving it as is for now. lol Oh yeah, can anyone confirm whether the timing cover needs to be removed in order to change it?

Honestly the biggest thing I need to do right now is fix the front transfer case output seal because it's noticeably leaking. Took the wife out for a spin and she enjoyed it. Still gonna keep working on the little details, but I'm super happy with how it's turning out!

 

[Chowlie]

*pics

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[Chowlie]

I guess it's time I can give a quick final(ish) update.

Turns out the flex line is what had the rear brakes stopped up. I replaced all the lines going to the rear and now all four brakes work properly. Additionally, I flipped the shoes on the front and adjusted all four corners. The brakes feel strong and work great.

I did some diagnosis with my multimeter and found that the Autometer volt gauge isn't reading just right. At idle I'm seeing about 13.5 volts at the battery and 13.8 revved up, which is about as perfect as you can get.

I installed the Pertronix unit and noticed a very immediate improvement in starting and idling. Because my coil was basically a stock replacement I hooked up the red + wire in front of the ballast resistor to get the needed 3 ohms resistance. My coil by itself only read 1.6.

Additionally I got the rear topper hatch resintalled which definitely helped with the cold air from my little excursion over the weekend.

I'm hoping to get it to the exhaust shop this coming weekend, but other than that it's pretty much all good.

Thanks to everyone who helped me get this project straightened out - it's been a lot of work, but a lot of fun as well.

 

[Chowlie]

Good to hear that you are driving around and enjoying it. I have that same spacer on the alternator on my F-head... lol

Sometimes there's no better use for a cheap 12 point socket. [emoji23]

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