Yep, it's the 4 cylinder. Thanks for the tips!
And I'll get some updated photos soon - hopefully tonight.
And I'll get some updated photos soon - hopefully tonight.
Ha, yes - history indeed. My dad flipped this thing over sometime in the 70's and had a pretty close call from what I heard. lol I think the license plate was last renewed in 1988.Oof, and I thought I had a project. Cool that it has family history though. I'm kinda hoping the kids take an interest in our Heep, and it becomes a family thing. Nobody else in my family is ridiculously sentimental about vehicles like I am. Hoping I pass that trait on. :laugh:
Looks like some small furry friends left some presents for you on top of the radiator cowl. That's to be expected I guess, after sitting for so long. Might be worth borescoping the manifolds/cylinders, see what's in there. Darn vermin.
Thanks for that - seems to confirm April of 1965.8305 gives you the cj5 model, the last 6 is the sequential serial number. You can verify the year from that number from the link below. Serial number shows as 1965. And yes, the vin plate was attached to the firewall with regular screws in that year range.
That's good to know! So far I'm mainly annoyed at all the dirt and rust, but hopefully the ease of maintenance will make up for it. HahaIf you are an experienced mechanic you will find that this Jeep is the easiest thing you've ever worked on. Very little changed from 55 to 65. The fact that it belonged to your dad makes it even more special. You could have a show Jeep or a blue highways traveler. Have fun!
Ok, I think I got the profile and garage thing straightened out. :wink2:Anytime you can open the hood and look down and see the ground you know that you have a simple to work on Jeep. The dirt will wash off and the rusty body parts can be replaced or repaired. You can even replace the entire body with a new fiber glass one.
Please fill out your profile and give us a geographic location. One or more of us may live nearby and might know where you can find spare parts. Two weeks ago I went with another member to find parts and repairs for his son's 66.
This is where I get to learn all about points and distributors. :wink2: Most of my auto experience is with mechanical diesels and fuel injected gassers.No spark? Lets troubleshoot.......
Use a test light.
Remove the ignition wire from the coil and turn the key on.
Do you have power at the wire? If not, then you have an issue between the battery and the coil.
If so, install the wire back on the coil and remove the wire from the dist side. Do you have power at the - coil post? if not, you have a coil issue.
If so, reinstall the dist wire and open the points. Do you have power at the point arm? If not, then you have an issue between the coil and the points.
If so, then file and regap the points. You should have spark every time you open the points with your finger. If not, check the points ground and the condenser.
The dist connects to the oil pump with a beveled drive. It will only go back one way. You will need to readjust the timing once you get it stuck.
I'll do some research on that. Looks like a good conversion.Now would be a good time to replace the points with a Pertronix electronic ignition. It isn't expensive and easy to do.
I really can't stress this enough, but everything inside the distributor looks brand new. Like it was replaced 25 years ago and run for maybe an hour before being parked. If I still don't see spark at the plugs after this I'll definitely be tearing into it.Ok, for the points/condenser, just order a new set rather than mess with what you have. There should be a tag on the distributor with the brand and model on it, you will need to make sure that you order the right set of points. Once you pull the cap and rotor, the plate that the points are mounted on removes after you take out the two screws that hold down the catch/latch for the cap. Once you have the screws out, the plate will lift out of the distributor. There are 2 screws in the points, one holds them in place, the other is a cammed head that adjusts the gap. Do not turn the one that is in the oval slot on the points (gap adjustment), just take loose the other screw and the lift the points off of the pivot pin. The new set of points should be close enough to drop back onto the plate and put the holding screw in and get the engine to fire up, you can fine tune the point gap later. the 'ground' wire from the coil connects to the points and spark occurs when the points open. make sure the you also replace the condenser, this absorbs the extra voltage when the points open and close to llimit the spark between the points as they open and close to extend the life of the point contact surface. if the condenser is bad, it can short directly to ground and the points will never charge the coil to get a spark.
Ok, that's good to know. Do you know which position should be for cylinder 1? This little diagram isn't much but it might be accurate anyway. Looks like cylinder 1 is likely pointing toward the front of the engine.The distributor on the F-head has a flat drive and timing limited adjustment so as long as the oil pump gears are timed correctly to the cam you should be close on the timing. so #1 can really only be in 2 positions with that distributor. no being 'teeth off' when you put in the distributor.
This has really piqued my interest. Between the Pertronix and a complete solid state distributor which do the members here prefer? Seems to be the Pertronix, but I figured I'd ask.Now would be a good time to replace the points with a Pertronix electronic ignition. It isn't expensive and easy to do.
Pretty sure we just pulled the battery cable to shut it off, IIRC. But yes, the only function the key would serve in this setup would be for the accessories and starter solenoid.BTW, If you have the coil connected directly to the battery, you might have trouble shutting it off after it starts.
Someone may of done that just to try starting it some years ago.
I would have to check the schematic but it's likely you will also need a ballast resistor so you don't burn out your ignition coil.
and this would be more useful than the other one.
Yes, it's a 12 volt system. It did have a ballast resistor on the firewall, so I hooked it back up and got fire. More on that below...If you have a trouble light, you could hook the light up to the wire to the points (-) on the ignition coil. When the light is on, the points are open, when the light is off, the points are closed.
Looks like the ballast resistor was only used on the V6 and not on the I4
Do you know if you have a 12 volt or 6 volt system?
Well this is the current work list.You have a lot of irons in the fire with this Jeep.
I suggest you start a build sheet that maps out:
Specific areas you want to work on.
What you want to do in those areas
And what you have done. This will keep you from missing, forgetting, or failing to finish each section.
I like to break down by components.
Repair loose draglink/bellcrank
Inspect tie rod ends
Inspect king pin bearings
Replace knuckle wiper seals/refill knuckles
It also gives you a sense of accomplishment as you tick off each task.
Eh, I don't have them listed by priority. Haha but yes, all fluids and filters are gonna be done before we pull it out again!I certainly didn't do it this way myself, but I would suggest moving the fluid changes up the list. Imagine putting all new brakes on it, then having to take them off to tear down an axle that you later discovered was in need of a rebuild.
Don't get me wrong... I just wanna drive mine, and I did refill my transfer case for now [emoji23], but I know i need to pull it's pan and look inside now. There was a lot of metal on the plug, and in the oil. [emoji107] The milkshake that was the oil in my rear diff, now I know I need to keep an eye on that. Engine oil, I changed that before I even started it.