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New to the forum - looking to get my dad's old CJ running again for the farm.

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Hey there - new to the group, hopefully going to be getting my dad's old Jeep running and driving again in the next few months. I know nothing about Jeeps, but am an otherwise experienced mechanic. These photos are from 2009 and are the only ones I could find handy. It's been sitting in our barn since then and needs quite a bit of maintenance. From what I remember the brakes are dead and it needs a new fuel supply. (It has had a boat tank hooked up in the past)

I'll probably be investigating it this weekend to see if it'll crank and whether it needs any wiring help. Fingers crossed it's not locked after all this time. Any tips or tricks about what I have here would be more than welcome!

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Oof, and I thought I had a project. Cool that it has family history though. I'm kinda hoping the kids take an interest in our Heep, and it becomes a family thing. Nobody else in my family is ridiculously sentimental about vehicles like I am. Hoping I pass that trait on. :laugh:


Looks like some small furry friends left some presents for you on top of the radiator cowl. That's to be expected I guess, after sitting for so long. Might be worth borescoping the manifolds/cylinders, see what's in there. Darn vermin. :(
 

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Ha, yes - history indeed. My dad flipped this thing over sometime in the 70's and had a pretty close call from what I heard. lol I think the license plate was last renewed in 1988.

Clearly it's not a feasible full resto, at least not IMO. If I can get it running smooth and driving around the farm I'll be happy with it.

By the way, I did find another serial number table, and I think this may have been manufactured in 1965.
I was gonna say, screws in the VIN plate? No idea if that's how it was done then, but not normal in later years. Tub swapped, or repainted after it was flipped?

Anything is restorable, with enough money and motivation. :laugh: My wife has grand ideas of driving our CJ5 around (once I get "done" working on it), but she's only ever had a YJ, then a TJ. Never driven anything with non-power brakes and steering. I told her it's basically a glorified tractor...... but I think she's gonna have to experience it herself. :eek::rofl:

If you get it cleaned out, and get pics of all it's bits and pieces, folks here can tell you what it's built from. That might get interesting, since it apparently may have had some major surgery one point in it's life. Looks like a fun project through.
 

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I certainly didn't do it this way myself, but I would suggest moving the fluid changes up the list. Imagine putting all new brakes on it, then having to take them off to tear down an axle that you later discovered was in need of a rebuild.


Don't get me wrong... I just wanna drive mine, and I did refill my transfer case for now :laugh:, but I know i need to pull it's pan and look inside now. There was a lot of metal on the plug, and in the oil. :thumbdown: The milkshake that was the oil in my rear diff, now I know I need to keep an eye on that. Engine oil, I changed that before I even started it.
 

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Thanks for the replies there - guess I'll go with the 5 leaf set just for the better ride. You're right, not gonna doing a ton of hard work with it. Might load up the back with some wood on occasion is probably about it.

So, I mentioned I'd give a little more background info. Dad came over to take a look the day I got out if out of the barn and was definitely happy to see it running again. Said it felt like the old days. lol

At 19 years old, my dad bought this jeep in 1976. He drove it in and out of the hollow they lived in to get to work. The following winter he completely flipped it over in the snow and got injured pretty badly. The windshield broke and cut through his jacket, leaving a gnarly scar on his forearm. He had some other injures as well, but fortunately recovered quickly. The Jeep ran upside down for a bit before he got it shut off, which apparently damaged the crankshaft. The next spring he completely rebuilt the engine with the help of his friend, a diesel mechanic who spent time in Vietnam. He recalled the confusion they had on the distributor rotation, and after finding out it turns counter-clockwise the engine fired right up.

I don't know if it's obvious or not, but we're really just doing the bare-minimum to get it running and driving for now. (Brakes, fluids, broken parts, etc.) As long as I know we won't burn up a differential or something I'll be happy. It's for that reason I'm just going to replace the rear springs and leave the front alone until I think they need changing. We probably won't ever get it aligned (unless we do it ourselves with a tape measure) just because we'll only be using it off-road. I do want to inspect the front end thoroughly and be sure to grease all the components. I'm sure it'll be easy to do when we take all the wheels off for the brake hardware.

I'm currently searching out these answers, but... what are the preferred fluids for the Transmission and T-case? It seems they share oil, or at least started sharing oil after a certain point. (Model CJ-2A S/N 24196, which is 1946?) I'm not afraid to splurge on high-quality synthetics. The FSM calls for SAE 80/90 GL4 gear lube in the Borg Warner T90 and D18. I have a few quarts of Royal Purple 75-90 gear oil leftover from when I changed the oil in my Dodge Ram 2500, and according to the website it's safe for yellow metals and synchronizers.

I'll just top off the front and rear differentials to make sure there aren't any leaky seals before I completely drain and clean them.
Super cool that Dad gets to see it come back to life. Heck of a history too. lol

As to your oil..... maybe do some more reading on that. I don't know about your gearboxes, but I sifted through a bunch of threads while I was trying to figure it out. The GL-4 rating might be important. SOME of the newer GL-5 stuff may be safe for the synchros and thrust washers, and "backwards compatible" to the GL-4..... but the transmission might not like it? Plenty of guys complained the GL-5 made for shifting issues. I noticed in reading reviews elsewhere, that some Nissans and European vehicles had a similar problem. GL-5 bad, GL-4 good, at least in those instances. Must be something to it. :dunno: For your uses though, might not matter?

I picked up a CRC product, Sta-Lube, from NAPA. GL-4 in an 85w-90 if I remember right. It was like $45 for a gallon? Wife picked it up actually, paid $1 for their fancy reusable bag, and got 20% off. My wife is cheap, and doesn't take flack from anyone. It's sometimes beneficial to send her out for things. She gets results. :laugh:
 

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Good lord. That's one of those wash jobs that doubles the resale value :laugh:

What are you doing for wiring? Running it from scratch? I had some good experience with Wire Barn recently, if you're just wanting wire and stuff. The website isn't the best, but they are SUPER responsive to questions and emails. I thought they'd screwed up my first order (the spools were just mislabeled) but the owner was texting/emailing until 11pm to make sure it got squared away. :eek: I wanted some more battery cable terminals too. Not on his site, but he had them, and added them to my order.
 

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Yeah... mine has a bit more wiring in it. lol I bumped all the original 18ga up to 16ga, and 16ga to 14ga, and ran a lot of additional 12 and 10ga grounds and bonding jumpers. I got battery cable, heat shrink, and wire loom from them too, which you probably need. Think I found it a little cheaper elsewhere, but their price was decent, and after the first customer service experience..... I gave them more business. :D

Have a bit left over, but then I only rewired about 1/3 of the Jeep. lol Just got the last parts I need for my headlight relay harness, so that'll eat up some more too. Should probably figure out why it looks like my alternator isn't charging first though. :rofl:
 

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Looks great! I usually just buy those little spools from the parts store anyway. Lol

I'm thinking Napa may be able to crimp battery cables. If that's the case I will have them make a 6 gauge jumper to go from my battery to the positive and negative connections on the fuse box.

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Ugh... wire at most parts stores is at least twice as expensive as this. Don't do that, unless you HAVE to. lol I think it was like $50, for ELEVEN 25ft rolls in the assorted colors? A single 20ft roll of primary wire at most parts stores, is at least $9.

I've heard NAPA does crimps, but my little local one doesn't. Big one in town probably does. I just used one of those hammer crimp tools. Not the fanciest, but it worked ok. Should have stolen the hydraulic crimper from work. lol Maybe next time.
 
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