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New member, New project

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New member here but long time jeep owner and lover of all things jeep.

Picked up this rusty CJ6 heap with intentions for a restoration but that has turned into a full blown trail rig. Once I got it home and found the extent of the rust and found the frame slightly pitted I decided for the build change as this isnt my choice for a resto.

Anyway I have been on the hunt the last 4 or 5 months for CJ6 specific body parts for crawlers and trail type parts. I've found places that are willing to adjust things I want to my specific specs but do yall know of anywhere that carrys anything like this for CJ6 specific?

I planned initially to run a leave spring setup with custom length/spec Deaver leaf packs outboarding the front mounts for a D60 and figuring out how I want to do the rears with the 14 bolt.

Course then i keep tossing around the idea of a triangulated upper 4 link rear with a 3 link front but with the narrow width frame this might be a challenge and might handle weird(plan to drive this on the street as well).

Drive train plan was one of a few choices.

• OM617 Merc I5 diesel/4L80E. Or one in this same family of I5 diesels. It can make plenty of power, is a proven reliable platform with proper maint, is decently cheap, and decently sized for the engine bay. But it's a clatter house while running which would make hearing spotters difficult, and it can me smokey.

• VW TDI 4cyl/4L80E. Specific version of which I cant remember the designator now but it's the one Nate runs from Dirt Lifestyle. Compact engine, can make over 400hp easily out of it, decently quiet for a diesel since it's common rail, and its reliable. Its diesel though and to get thah HP number its gonna be smokey.

• LS swap/4L80E which I know alot will hate but I know them well and they are easily swappable and reliable as well as can make great power while being cheap to purchase. Large though so packaging would be difficult.

• Hemi swap/accompanying auto, same reasons as above but the cost is a bit more for a good current engine that has the re-engineering updates so it doesnt drop valves. Again bulky and hard to package.

• 4.0L or stroked version either N/A or super charged/4L80E. Easily packaged width wise(and with a 72+ front clip then move front crossmember forward length isnt an issue either). Can make great reliable power and easy to work on.

• New 2.0T/8 spd auto 4cyl from a new JL wrangler. My current fav idea since from factory it outs out 290lbft of tq and moves the wifes JL 4dr quite briskly in factory trim. It's small and easily packaged, already charged, makes great power and with the possibly lighter CJ6 with the right gearing would be even more peppy. Could be quite costly to get my hands on one though and with the CAN-BUS systems of the JL I would need every computer and piece of wiring I could get with it plus figure out a way for speed sensors on the wheels.

Want it to be an auto so the wife can drive it to work if need be incase I have her JL down for anything. She CAN drive a stick but absolutely REFUSES to do so and I find my life expectancy seems considerably longer if I dont push the issue, plus an auto is nice as well since it's less to focus on.

My being a Gemini tends to keep me from making a decisive choice on any of it 😆.

Going to try and salvage the tub and with the trans choice will likely need to make a new trans tunnel so front floor will likely be custom. Plan to use a saginaw box modified for hydro assist steering on the front of the frame and run a hydro boost brake system mounted to the firewall. Will have to figure out how to mount the pedals to the inside wall then(probly try to make the later CJ6 or CJ5 pedal box work).

Will try to salvage the rest of the tub with boat sides and tub the rear for better clearance while making a new rear floor. Hopefully I can keep most of the character of the beat up tub and its patina.

I'll see if I can post some pics of my bucket when I got it and how it sits with the bare frame engine/trans/tcase in it. Currently has no mounts what so ever on it and a 14 bolt slid under the rear.