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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I will try to get all this to you asap. I'll need to measure stuff as I don't have it in my head. I know the face to face on the hubs are the same as the Jeep. 60.5??
 

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Bigbob, got any numbers for me? Well finally got on SketchUp today and here is what I have before lunch will work on it a little more after I get back but had some questions.

I noticed that you have a small section of tubing on the inside right where the spring mounts are. Is this because the mounts for the springs were larger than 2" to fit on the tube or for gusseting?

Also what size tube is your tongue made out of it looks like it slides in real well. You said your using 2x2 with 1/4" walls that would make a 1.5" ID. I have heard everywhere that you shouldn't pick your OD real close to your ID when telescoping. Is that a 1.25" OD tube and what thickness?

Oh and one more. You only paid 40 bucks for all that steel?! Where did you get it, that is a steal.... I really didn't mean to rhyme.

Here's what I got
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Bigbob, got any numbers for me? Well finally got on SketchUp today and here is what I have before lunch will work on it a little more after I get back but had some questions.
Sorry about that.

I noticed that you have a small section of tubing on the inside right where the spring mounts are. Is this because the mounts for the springs were larger than 2" to fit on the tube or for gusseting?
Actually that was a screw up! I wanted my center to center of the frame rails at 44" which is similar to the Jeep. But the way my axle is built with the lowered replaceable spindles I could not make the springs center to center at 44". Instead of narrowing the frame I added the piece. The springs are 42: center to center. It does add some strength to the spring area. And being I cut out the frame rail for the shocks it was a good idea.

Also what size tube is your tongue made out of it looks like it slides in real well. You said your using 2x2 with 1/4" walls that would make a 1.5" ID. I have heard everywhere that you shouldn't pick your OD real close to your ID when telescoping. Is that a 1.25" OD tube and what thickness?
The square tube piece I used in front, like you have in your sketch up, is 2.5" OD 2" ID tube. I used regular tube which has a ridge in it. You can buy receiver tubing which has no ridge, but it is a little pricey. In retrospect I should have bought the receiver stuff as getting the 2" stuff in is hard with that ridge there. I ended up cutting a 1/32" groove in the 2" stuff so it would slide easy. So it is a 2" 1/4" wall tube in a 2.5" 1/4" wall tube. I have no 1.25 tube anywhere.

Oh and one more. You only paid 40 bucks for all that steel?! Where did you get it, that is a steal.... I really didn't mean to rhyme.
No, I was being funny. But if you are talking about the comment in regard to the frame being built and the tires and wheels mounted the $40.00 is not terribly off. Right now the place I buy remnants is about $.70 a lb. At the time I bought the tubing it was $.60 a lb. They only have remnants in 10" or less lengths.

So my frame is 2"X .120 wall square tube. The center to center of the frame is 44", 46" outside. The frame length is 60" and the tub/frame width is 64". The tub height behind the wheels is 20" and forward height is 21.5". The tailgate is also about 44" IIRC, may be and inch different more or less.
 

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I thought you were using .250 wall tube. I think 1/4" would be overkill on such a small trailer and would add a lot of weight. I am planing on using .188 the same thickness as a TJ frame on the four main sides then the .120 for the rest and a 2x2 .250 for the axle.

A possible solution to the spring perch width. Wouldn't welding two small 1/2" blocks on either side of your removable spindle mount allow clearance for the U bolts to pass through as well as an extra 1/2" of lift.

Edit: Oh and how did you make the rotational pivot point, the one that is closes to the trailer side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I thought you were using .250 wall tube. I think 1/4" would be overkill on such a small trailer and would add a lot of weight. I am planing on using .188 the same thickness as a TJ frame on the four main sides then the .120 for the rest and a 2x2 .250 for the axle.
Other than the axle, receiver and tongue it's all .120 wall.

A possible solution to the spring perch width. Wouldn't welding two small 1/2" blocks on either side of your removable spindle mount allow clearance for the U bolts to pass through as well as an extra 1/2" of lift.
No biggie there. Once I cut out for the shocks I felt more confident with the extra piece in there.

Edit: Oh and how did you make the rotational pivot point, the one that is closes to the trailer side.
It is a grade 8 1" bolt, 8" long I think. Dom tube which is 1 3/4" OD and 1 1/4" ID with 1" bushings in it. The DOM was ground down to fit inside 2" square tube. IIRC the 2" square is 3/16" wall. The fixed side still has the bolt head on it and I ground off 2 of the head corners so it rests inside the 2" square tube. I also put a set screw on it to prevent movement. I used large 1" flat washers for the trust point and brazed them on.

 

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What type of welder do you use?

These were the quoted prices I got for the steel, I'm in VA near DC.

2.5"x2.5" .25" square tube - $10/ft
2"x2" .188" square tube - $5/ft
2"x2" .120" square tube - $3/ft
2"x1" .120" tube - $4/ft

I don't carry 18 ga, but I carry 16 and 20, in 4' x 8' sheets. Price is $90 for a sheet of 16 ga. and $65 for a sheet of 20 ga.

Do those prices seem fair or should I price a few other places. That is the local fab shop and not some big chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I use 2 dudfert welders. I have a AC DC Hobart Stickmate for most everything and a Lincoln 140 amp mig for the sheet metal.

The metal prices seem high. I pay by the pound. IIRC the 2X.120 wall stuff was under $2.00 a foot. The 18 Gage was $56.00 per sheet, that was cold roll. The hot roll is a little cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Update

Haven't shared anything on this build since 2010! Well I haven't had much time to work on it. LOL, two three months ago I went out in the garage and the project was almost buried under "stuff". Car seats, cardboard boxes of "stuff" etc and I just got pissed off! I got it un-buried and started working on it again.

The pics don't give justice to all the stuff I've done to it in the last couple months. I finished up the suspension by putting bronze bushings in the spring eyes. Grease is good. I got the body all finish welded. I got the tailgate finished. I got the front of the frame all done. I have an old aluminum diamond plate truck box that mounts in front of the tub on the frame. Had to do a lot of metal work to get the panels straight. I did the Heat/Shrink thing on a bunch of it. It'll take some minor filling before I put the primer on it. It will be painted with Mostaliner Urine Trouble which is a close match to my LJ's Solar Yellow.
I'll update more as it comes close to being finished.
LOL The tires are now 6 years old and have never rolled down the road!



 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
LOL. Been a while on this.
Started this back 10 years ago. A couple weeks ago I decided to get with the program. Here’s some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Went with a military paint job. I mixed up some Rustoleum products and rolled it on. I’ll add black WW2 stars eventually.
 
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