I will try to get all this to you asap. I'll need to measure stuff as I don't have it in my head. I know the face to face on the hubs are the same as the Jeep. 60.5??
Sorry about that.Bigbob, got any numbers for me? Well finally got on SketchUp today and here is what I have before lunch will work on it a little more after I get back but had some questions.
Actually that was a screw up! I wanted my center to center of the frame rails at 44" which is similar to the Jeep. But the way my axle is built with the lowered replaceable spindles I could not make the springs center to center at 44". Instead of narrowing the frame I added the piece. The springs are 42: center to center. It does add some strength to the spring area. And being I cut out the frame rail for the shocks it was a good idea.I noticed that you have a small section of tubing on the inside right where the spring mounts are. Is this because the mounts for the springs were larger than 2" to fit on the tube or for gusseting?
The square tube piece I used in front, like you have in your sketch up, is 2.5" OD 2" ID tube. I used regular tube which has a ridge in it. You can buy receiver tubing which has no ridge, but it is a little pricey. In retrospect I should have bought the receiver stuff as getting the 2" stuff in is hard with that ridge there. I ended up cutting a 1/32" groove in the 2" stuff so it would slide easy. So it is a 2" 1/4" wall tube in a 2.5" 1/4" wall tube. I have no 1.25 tube anywhere.Also what size tube is your tongue made out of it looks like it slides in real well. You said your using 2x2 with 1/4" walls that would make a 1.5" ID. I have heard everywhere that you shouldn't pick your OD real close to your ID when telescoping. Is that a 1.25" OD tube and what thickness?
No, I was being funny. But if you are talking about the comment in regard to the frame being built and the tires and wheels mounted the $40.00 is not terribly off. Right now the place I buy remnants is about $.70 a lb. At the time I bought the tubing it was $.60 a lb. They only have remnants in 10" or less lengths.Oh and one more. You only paid 40 bucks for all that steel?! Where did you get it, that is a steal.... I really didn't mean to rhyme.
Other than the axle, receiver and tongue it's all .120 wall.I thought you were using .250 wall tube. I think 1/4" would be overkill on such a small trailer and would add a lot of weight. I am planing on using .188 the same thickness as a TJ frame on the four main sides then the .120 for the rest and a 2x2 .250 for the axle.
No biggie there. Once I cut out for the shocks I felt more confident with the extra piece in there.A possible solution to the spring perch width. Wouldn't welding two small 1/2" blocks on either side of your removable spindle mount allow clearance for the U bolts to pass through as well as an extra 1/2" of lift.
It is a grade 8 1" bolt, 8" long I think. Dom tube which is 1 3/4" OD and 1 1/4" ID with 1" bushings in it. The DOM was ground down to fit inside 2" square tube. IIRC the 2" square is 3/16" wall. The fixed side still has the bolt head on it and I ground off 2 of the head corners so it rests inside the 2" square tube. I also put a set screw on it to prevent movement. I used large 1" flat washers for the trust point and brazed them on.Edit: Oh and how did you make the rotational pivot point, the one that is closes to the trailer side.