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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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I'm doing a final sweep for information on the tub/frame stretch from TJ to LJ. At this point, I've managed to compile a pretty extensive data base of photos and documentation. I'm Just looking to see if there's anything else out there I haven't already found. Here are some build links I've compiled so far. Thanks to those who shared these.
I've got the majority of the parts I need to at least start my stretch, but I would rather hold off until EVERY part needed is within arms reach. That's given me the opportunity to prepare to an almost surgical degree. My goal is to plan, and pre-fab as much as practically possible before I make the cut...or tell my wife what I'm up to...>:)

What I have so far:

• (x2) 16" frame sections (JF classifieds) $100
• (x2) 16" upper tub sheet metal sections (Davey's Jeeps) $120
• (x1) Pair of factory LJ spec belt rails (JF classifieds) $100
• (x1) Pair of Savvy LJ aluminum corner blanks (4lowparts) $485
• (x1) Chrysler technical training body repair guide (eBay) $15
• (x1) B-pillar body section for practice/investigation (eBay) $50

Rectangle Tool Gas Wood Office supplies

What I still need to gather:
  • LJ soft top
  • Fuel and brake line extensions
  • Sheet metal for the tub patch
  • Custom drive shaft
  • Extra body mounts
I've decided to extend my tub at the front lip of the upper cargo deck as many others have done. However, I plan to move my rear wheel housings back as one intact piece with the rest of the rear tub half, rather than cutting across through them horizontally splitting them into two pieces. Instead, I'll only be cutting the spot welds that hold the wheel housings up to the B-pillars. That way the wheel housings will look original when I'm done. I'll net a little extra interior space as well. The only cuts I'll actually be making to separate the front and rear body halves are down through the vertical face of the side body panels. Everything else will come apart cleanly at the spot welds.

Here's a video I made for a friend explaining the plan.

And some sketches:cool:
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I'll post more details soon.
 

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I'll be watching closely. I have about the same parts collected. I'm missing an LJ hardtop and the fuel lines and such. I do have an LJ factory roll bar on its way thanks to another member on here. I'm hoping to start mine about Christmas time. Good luck on yours.
 

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Always love these builds. I'll be following along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sand1235 said:
I'll be watching closely. I have about the same parts collected. I'm missing an LJ hardtop and the fuel lines and such. I do have an LJ factory roll bar on its way thanks to another member on here. I'm hoping to start mine about Christmas time. Good luck on yours.
Thanks! I unfortunately don't have the luxury of using a factor LJ cage. Believe it or not I've lived here in Taiwan for over 8 years now and have only come a cross one single LJ. I'd have to buy one from the states and freight it over here. A custom cage is the way to go in my situation. At one point, I actually had an LJ top ordered to be built by a company called Jeep King out in Cali. The gave me a really reasonable ocean freight quote so I jumped on the deal. In the end the deal collapsed though. The guy turned out to be a bit of a flake. I actually had to threaten him with legal action to get a refund. That said, a soft top is much cheaper to buy and ship over.

On a side note, I've always had a soft spot for the Wild Boar fast back tops.
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Thanks! I unfortunately don't have the luxury of using a factor LJ cage. Believe it or not I've lived here in Taiwan for over 8 years now and have only come a cross one single LJ. I'd have to buy one from the states and freight it over here. A custom cage is the way to go in my situation. At one point, I actually had an LJ top ordered to be built by a company called Jeep King out in Cali. The gave me a really reasonable ocean freight quote so I jumped on the deal. In the end the deal collapsed though. The guy turned out to be a bit of a flake. I actually had to threaten him with legal action to get a refund. That said, a soft top is much cheaper to buy and ship over.

On a side note, I've always had a soft spot for the Wild Boar fast back tops.
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I had talked to you about when you were almost getting that Jeep King Top, that sucks that didn't work out. I've been considering one just cause I'm having a hard time finding an OEM one. But i guess I'll quit considering one if they are that bad with customer service.

I too love the Wild Boar top, but I haul a dog around and that might not work too well when the dog is back there. And my wife isn't a fan of the looks....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sand1235 said:
I had talked to you about when you were almost getting that Jeep King Top, that sucks that didn't work out. I've been considering one just cause I'm having a hard time finding an OEM one. But i guess I'll quit considering one if they are that bad with customer service. I too love the Wild Boar top, but I haul a dog around and that might not work too well when the dog is back there. And my wife isn't a fan of the looks....
Yea those Jeep King guys are really shady. Don't bother. I've seen factory LJ tops go for as low as $1200.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I'm about to buy up some sheet metal for the body patches. Most of the information I'm finding here and elsewhere points to 18ga cold rolled. According to my rough measurements and sketches I think I can pull it off with (x3) 48"x24" 18ga. sheets.
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Found a good deal on eBay.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This past week I had some time to sit down and put together a rough draft of stretch instructions. Yea I know it's a bit anal retentive, but It's really helping me workout some of the variables bouncing around in my head. And the fewer variables there are the more relaxed I'll be when it comes time to make that first cut. Step by step instructions will also help stream line the project when I start I figure. So here's what I have so far. I'm open to any input you guys might have.

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That's a really cool idea. It would be a good place to keep some straps and other recovery gear that won't mind getting warm. I imagine you would get some drive train heat in that area, so you just have to think about what you store down there. I wouldn't recommend using it to store you lunch on a trail run. Do you plan on moving your rear seat forward to where that box is so you can gain a little bit of trunk space? Something to consider is that the rear seat swings forward, so you may want you box to open in the same direction to increase accessibility when the seat is in the vehicle. That might allow you to utilize a larger access panel, unlike that of the CJ.

Really cool idea though, good use of the space.


Side note, why autocad for the modeling? I always prefired solidworks for this kind of stuff. Just what you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
RedJeepster1 said:
Do you plan on moving your rear seat forward to where that box is so you can gain a little bit of trunk space? Something to consider is that the rear seat swings forward, so you may want you box to open in the same direction to increase accessibility when the seat is in the vehicle. That might allow you to utilize a larger access panel, unlike that of the CJ. Really cool idea though, good use of the space. Side note, why autocad for the modeling? I always prefired solidworks for this kind of stuff. Just what you have?
Exactly. The seat will move forward so the rear brackets mount in the location of where the front brackets are now. That will give me a pinch more leg room and gobs of cargo room in the back. The seat brackets will straddle the storage compartment side to side. And the hatch will open to the rear once the seat swings up. I'm just comfortable with CAD. I do wanna check out Solidworks sooner or later though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After a bit more investigation and more precise measurements I've come to the conclusion that the giant central floor hatch I had in mind isn't going to work out. As mentioned earlier, I plan on moving the rear bench seat forward so that the seat's rear brackets match up on the floor with where the front brackets sit now allowing them to bolt down through the cross member as originally designed by Jeep. I will then add a third cross member to accept the forward seat brackets in their new location once the tub is extended. That said the new front cross member will extend across right in the middle of where the larger floor hatch would have opened. So the new design will have three storage boxes. The center box being the largest of the three will extend the length (~15") and width (~36") of the center floor extension and sneak underneath the new cross member. Unfortunately due to the location of the cross member, the opening will be fairly narrow.

Naval architecture Slope Parallel Urban design Rectangle
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(Bottom panel of the center box not shown In these images)
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So I've added a bead roller and sheet metal brake to my tool list. I'll need to find a local shop with a brake wide enough to make the longer bends. All the 30" and wider brakes I'm finding are in the $300-$500 range. I can't see spending that much on a tool I probably won't use more than a hand full of time in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Chiefww said:
amazing job!
Don't congratulate me yet...I haven't made a single cut to date. Haha! I do plan to kick it off after New Years for sure though. "I resolve to have a spatially adequate Jeep" ;-) I've got my filler sheet metal and body framing steel situated over the weekend. I also revised/simplified my design (Option-2). I'm going to extend back at the main floor pan or B2 as apposed to D1 in the diagram below. I'm going to support the two forward seat brackets on C-channels rather than to the floor using a factory cross member beneath. I'm going to replace B9 with C-channel. This will be less work and more cost effective in the long run. The new design won't require the 36" long sheet metal break I planned on buying either. A less expensive 24" brake will do. There will be less sheet metal beading as well. And the center storage area will be much more accessible.
Font Automotive exterior Auto part Rectangle Drawing
Organism Sleeve Slope Line Red

The new design.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update:

With the exception of the custom length drive shaft, and LJ length soft top I'll need, I just ordered what I hope to be the last of the tools/parts I'll need to complete the stretch.

This puts my total build cost to date at $1176

Previous stuff:
• (x2) 16" frame sections (JF classifieds) $100
• (x2) 16" upper tub sheet metal sections (Davey's Jeeps) $120
• (x1) Pair of factory LJ spec belt rails (JF classifieds) $100
• (x1) Pair of Savvy LJ aluminum corner blanks (4lowparts) $485
• (x1) Chrysler technical training body repair guide (eBay) $15
• (x1) B-pillar body section for practice/investigation (eBay) $50

New stuff:
• (x1) 18" 18-gauge sheet metal brake (eBay) $60
• (x1) 18" 18-gauge bead roller (eBay) $140
• (x2) Laser levels (eBay) $12
• (x2) Ratchet straps (eBay) $13
• (x1) 3/8" Spotweld cutter kit (eBay) $39
• (x1) Flexible tailpipe extension (eBay) $18
• (x1) Tube of structural adhesive (eBay) $7
• (x1) Tube of seam sealer (eBay) $17

I'll be in the US next week for Thanks Giving and plan on carriying all this stuff back here to Taiwan in check in baggage when I return. Right under customs radar as I do roughly twice a year. :teehee: I'd love to be able to buy it locally but legit DIY/tool shops are few and far between over here. There's just no demand for them. For the most part, the Taiwanese culture is auto mechanically retarded. Can't ship it in either, without getting raped by customs. I do have one go to place that sells quality Japanese American and German import brands, but the inventory is more directed towards contractors and carpenters. No Home Depot, no Lowe's, no ACE, no True Value anywhere to be found on this little island. On the up side, LED tech is unbelievable over here and the prices are half what they are back in the US. But I'm rambling on now...

Almost go time.:grin2:

...Still haven't told the wife...>:)
 
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