Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
41 - 60 of 91 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Warrior Products Mirror Relocation Bracket

Hello fellow Jeepers,

Well yesterday I stopped by a local Off Road shop, Expert Offroad, to ask about some mirror relocation brackets. You all know why, putting the hard top and full doors on takes some time, and if I can shorten that time by not having to deal with Swapping the mirror from the half doors to the fulls doors it would cut my time in half.

Now I looked at getting another set of mirrors, but those cost upto $100 for a set, even at the local junk yards they wany about $50-60. Well the shop had a set from Warrior Products and had them marked in the Mid $30. I opened the box to see what they looked like and they appeared to be used, so Derek offered to drop the price $10..DEAL!

So last night I took the mirrors off the half doors and put these on. It's a pretty straightforward install so I don't have pics of the install, but I do have the finished photos. They bolt to the two screws that hold the Upper Door bracket to the body of the TJ. These were a little hard to get get out as they have been there since the factory and were painted into the jeep..so to speak..lol

There are some things I like and dislike about these brackets, you'll see below in the photos.

Here's a shot of the brackets themselves...Notice how they have the two surfaces, one that bolts to the body and the other where the mirror bolts to it.


Now a shot of the Bracket and Mirrors installed


Notice how they stick out a little now..not much, but it's a little annoying. I was worried at first that that gap would create a noise generator. But driving to work today I heard no additional noise.


Here's a shot of the passenger side, showing a good look of the gap and how the antenna is there. You can also see the bolts and nuts that holds the mirrors on, another concern.


Now this is a closer shot of the back of the bracket with the mirror hardware. In the photo above, notice how the lip of the mirror doesn't wrap around the bracket like it did on the factory door hinge. I don't know if this is by design or a slip-up on warrior's production. I was worried that the mirror would slip up and down but after tightening down the nuts the mirrors seem pretty stable. Notice I put some Silicone RTV on the end of the nuts to prevent them from vibrating loose. I didn't want to use Lok-Tite as I might want to remove these and RTV is easier just to peel off.


Now I was also worried about the bracket allowing the mirrors to vibrate more as I drove...On the way to work this morning I did notice the vibration, but it was no worse than the vibration of the mirrors when mounted on the doors.

The mirrors still fold in when I need them to for trails or brush, and when folded in they don't stick out any further than the fender flairs or tires so that's good

I was looking at the bracket and thinking that I might be able to mount a CB antenna on the inside of the driver-side on when I install the CB, maybe another write up...

So far I am happy with the brackets, we'll see how they hold up and I'll let ya know.

Happy Trails! :wave:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Thanks for the Compliments Aevrubi and Limegreen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
BDS 2" Lift and JKS Quick Disconnects

Well I started with the lift today. Yesterday I stopped by 4X4Land here in South Topeka. I spoke with the head Honcho there, Mike, and he and I talked for about 30 minutes about Lifts, Suspensions, Tummy Tucks and LCOG rigs. After he gave me some of his experiences with Tummy Tucks and lifts and the different manufacturers, I decided to go with BDS for the springs and shocks, JKS for quick disconnects and Rubicon Express for the Control Arms.

I told him to go ahead and order me the BDS 2" lift for my TJ, and he said it'd be in on this Thursday. I asked what he'd charge for install as I want to go wheeling on Saturday, and I wouldn't have time to install my self. He gave me a fair price so I said "Lets Do It"

Today I called and ordered the JKS Quick Disconnects, and Mike said he'd install those for no additional cost! SWEETNESS.

I went with BDS after much much research. Many, Many Favorable reviews and their Life Time Guarantee helped me in picking them for my springs.

Now some of you are asking why 2 inches instead of 3? Here's why, I want a Low Center of Gravity Rig. This is not only my Hunting Rig, but my Daily Driver. The plan is 2 inches of lift, then 1 inch of Body Lift and 1 inch of Motor mount lift, and then a tummy Tuck.

Yes I could go with a 3 inch lift and then a Zero Lift Tummy Tuck, but I have heard from many a Rubicon owner that it's hit or miss with those Zero Lift Skids, Some rub, others don't. Well I didn't want to have to take that chance and I have to build this in stages, so this is the route I am taking.

I'll see if his guys can snap a couple of photos during the install. And I'll let ya know how it rides on Saturday.

Thanks for Checking the thread out.

Happy Trails,
Mike :wave:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
hey man, great looking jeep! as for the mirror relocation, I actually bought the brackets for an earlier tj and yj with the bolt on mirros, and bought a set of mirrors so I don't have that aweful gap. Just something to think about if it gets too annoying...junk yards have great prices on mirrors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Yea I looked around here in Topeka and Kansas City..the TJ's and YJ's get picked clean as soon as they get dropped off...lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Just an update for today. I dropped "Roxie" this morning to the guys at 4x4 Land. They are gonna install the BDS Lift and the JKS Quick Disconnects. They even said they'd take a couple of pics for this thread..nice guys...

BTW I will have the Stock Rubi Springs for sale starting tonight...lol and the shocks...Here's a couple of shots of the current fender height.

Mike

Front Measurement


Rear Measurment
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Post BDS install

Hello all,

Well the shop became real busy and the guys didn't have a chance to take any photos of the install...:(

But I do have some shots of my rig after..here's some of with the tape measure..
The Front..


and the rear...


Now it appears that I didn't gain much in the back, but when you look at the space above the tires you can see the difference..maybe I measured the before height wrong..who knows..
Here's a side shot of the jeep after the lift..


And some shots at TuttleCreek ORV park this weekend..




and the group of us...my rig is 5th from the left.


And a video of me climbing a pretty steep hill..excuse the video, the wife was filming and rotated the camera to portrait and didn't keep the hill at angle in the shot...Sorry for the link, I can't get videos to work here from photobucket...
DSCN2139_NEW.mp4 video by havoc64 - Photobucket

Now my impression of the lift..it does rides better than the Stock Rubi Springs. Now I say that from a performance side of things. I like the stiffer ride and the fact that the springs and shocks are more responsive than the stock ones. The wife thinks the ride is more stiff and that she can feel the bumps more...and I said..."yea Nice huh?" she didn't get it..lol. Oh well...

Well I gotta get going..happy trails! :wave:
Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
BDS Steering Stabalizer

Well I ordered my Steering Stab about 2 weeks ago from the fella's at Expert OffRoad here in Topeka. $49.95 got me the BDS Part Number 55407 is the OE Replacment Stab. The kit came in a single box with rubber bushings and a mounting pin with all the nuts, washers and cotter pin needed for the job. It doesn't come with a boot.

The install took all of 30 minutes with the most of the time spent removing the old stabalizer. Here's a pic of the installed BDS stab.



After the install I took the pup and my Daughter for a ride. Steering is a lot more controlled and a little stiffer. In that I mean that turning the wheel is a little more..well....Stiff..lol. I went down some rutted roads and some roads with pot holes. The steering felt more secure and was more pleasurable to drive. I'd recommend this stab to anyone..

Happy Trails.
Mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,370 Posts
Sorry to through your build thread in rewind but I have a quick question about the rear bumper install you did a while back.

You wrote:
The instructions call for the drilling of 4 additional holes in the backing plate. I don't know if that's what it's called, but I am talking about the sheet metal that goes across the back of the jeep that attached to both ends of the frame. I drilled these out, being very cautious about not drilling into the gas tank. Once I got the bumper in place, I found there was no way to utilize these 4 holes without pulling the gas tank off...GRRR. Wasted time. This was the FIRST frustration during the install.
And followed up with:
Lastly when talking about the drilling of the 4 extra holes, he said that it was his opinion that the instructions should make mention of dropping the gas tank.
Am I correct in assuming you never wound up using the 4 holes you drilled? Did you find out what they were for? Should I just not drill those holes? I'm not looking forward to dropping my tank:rolleyes:

Great review/install thread btw. This was EXTREMELY helpful :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Sorry I didn't reply, yes I did drill the holes. And I couldn't find a way to get to them without dropping the tank. I didn't use them as that metal is real thin and wouldn't provide any strength at all, especially when the Frame Tie ins are there.

I did call Smitty Built and they said that the edition of the bumper that I got was an older one, and that the instructions were done incorrectly. Their latest release of the bumper and instructions don't call for that anymore.

Also my instructions called for bolts that were not included. Really crazy.

I also had some problems with holes lining up and one thread stripped out. I had to reinforce that with a grade 8 nut and do a little reaming to get the hole lined up.

Remember these bumpers are assembled in China as well as the instructions. Maybe the QC guy doesn't speak English..who knows.

Again, Sorry it took me so long to reply.
Mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,370 Posts
Sorry I didn't reply, yes I did drill the holes. And I couldn't find a way to get to them without dropping the tank. I didn't use them as that metal is real thin and wouldn't provide any strength at all, especially when the Frame Tie ins are there.

I did call Smitty Built and they said that the edition of the bumper that I got was an older one, and that the instructions were done incorrectly. Their latest release of the bumper and instructions don't call for that anymore.

Also my instructions called for bolts that were not included. Really crazy.

I also had some problems with holes lining up and one thread stripped out. I had to reinforce that with a grade 8 nut and do a little reaming to get the hole lined up.

Remember these bumpers are assembled in China as well as the instructions. Maybe the QC guy doesn't speak English..who knows.

Again, Sorry it took me so long to reply.
Mike
No apology necessary. Better late than never. And I'm sure this information will be helpful for future searches :cheers2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Metal Cloaks Delivered Last Night!!!

Well the Big Brown Truck stopped at my house last night before I got home, but the wife was good enough to let him put these goodies in my den.

Big boxes are my Overline fenders and the long skinny ones are my Sliders. I went with Powdercoating, decided it was easier to pay Matson than to do it my self..lol I'll be posting pics as I go put them on so stay tuned!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
MetalCloak Part 1

Well I unboxed them first in the den to see how they made it through shipping and to arrange all the parts in the order of the project. Here's a couple shots of the fenders coming out of the box.



and a shot of my Pup, Pelli giving an inspection of the parts going on "His" Jeep. Sadly he passed away about a week after this photo. :(



The Parts were wrapped VERY VERY good. The Sliders had pieces of 2x4 wood bolted to the ends to prevent damage during shipping.

Lastly a shot of the clearance of the stock fenders with my 2 Inch BDS Springs and 32" tires.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #58 ·
MetalCloak Part 2

Well here's where I started. I pulled the Factory Rubicon sliders off and then went to work on the Drivers side fender. After the battery is pulled out, you have to pull off everything that is bolted to the inner fender, washer tank, cruise control and horn all were unbolted and tied to the support rails.

The hardest part was all the wiring harness clips, thank God for needle nose pliers. Note I have the new inner fender resting in place in this photo. After the old fenders are removed you have to pull the accessory tray and battery tray out. MetalCloak provides new ones that will allow more clearance behind the tires. You can see both new Tray brackets in the photos below.



and the passenger side, Fuse box, air box and clips for the AC Conduit.



Here's the Driver side minus the Fender



and the Passenger Side naked too...:rofl:



Notice how MOPAR doesn't paint the vehicle's final color on all the parts? Like all auto companies, the parts are primed and then assembled. Then the Jeep get's it's "Color" coat.

The Exposed Primer is addressed in the next post...:2thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
MetalCloak Part 3

Well it's time to address those bare primer areas. Since the Fender only partially covers up the grill, I felt it was important to paint the exposed areas to match the jeep. So I called up my local MOPAR dealer and ordered a can of Solar Yello paint. Only took 2 days to get in! :2thumbsup:

I took an emery cloth to the areas and then cleaned them with some Marine Clean. Then Masked them off to prevent over spray, notice how I utilized some of the packing material that the fenders and sliders came in. :2thumbsup:

Here's the driver side grill and tub..




and Passenger side after the first coat.





and then a couple of shots of the finished painting.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
MetalCloak Part 4

Well the install of the fenders is pretty straight forward. First you put the Battery and Accessory tray brackets, then put the inner fenders in. Putting the inner fender in is a little task but you want to go slow as your working with Aluminium. Then you have to get the Fender frame and mount it under the lip of the inner fender, put a bolt in on the grill and one in on the tub. Then you start by bolting everything together as per the instructions.

I don't have too many photos of these steps as I was getting short handed..me, myself and I, but Me and Myself left about two hours ago to get beer...lol

Here's a shot of the Passenger side fender, before I finished bolting everything up.



The only "issue" I had with the fenders was the bolt on on the Air Box and Fuse Box. The instructions state that you should put the Fuse box bracket and box on first, then the air intake box. I had a problem with this as the bracket for the Air Box, bolted down under the AC Line which with the Fuse Bracket and box mounted was unmovable. I just took the Fuse Box stuff off and then bolted on the Intake, then put the Fuse Bracket and Box back on. All was good.

AS for the rocker rails/sliders. Well you don't want to see any pictures of that install, there'd be a lot of cuss words around me.
 
41 - 60 of 91 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top