My 1986 cj7 has a 304....

8258 Views 277 Replies 21 Participants Last post by Krkman13, 27 d ago

Krkman13

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

2

So after buy my cj i learned it has a 1969 304... No big deal, but it came with extra parts.

Everything looks to be mostly stock. The carb is junk choke doesn't work and it has to go, its rusted away. Engine block looks fairly newish blue. So it can't be to old since rebuilding. I have no previous info. Tags are still on many new parts.

Jeep came with a brand new intake manifold in the Edelbrock box 7531. So i bought a matching Edelbrock 600 carb with a manual choke.

After pulling jeep into garage and taking 1,2,3... Looks i see and read that the 1969 block is different than all newer, called a "gen 2". And of course PO bought the wrong intake as this old block has straight line bolt pattern as opposed to newer blocks having the two center bolts raised out of alignment on the intake.

So first question is the 1969 304 with higher compression better engine? Are the heads the same as newer amc 304? What else is different?

Somewhere i have read that you can drill new holes in the manifold? But what about the other holes? And will the intake ports all be the same and or should I buy a new $500 intake? Or keep the 2bbl intake and buy a 2bbl carb?

This is to be a winter jeep, its fiberglass and has a beautiful painted frame in perfect shape.

Valve cover tag says 1969 october, stamped M for .010 under main bearings.

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Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #261 · 3 mo ago

4

Still working on these backup light wires.

Here is a close up of the water tight connector that goes to the top of the transmission t5... Got me baffled because its not on the t5 schematic. Its the same orange and red thats not plugged into anything nearthe battery, last picture below.

Tomorrow I will jump the backup switch and check its function and if i have to I'll send a new wire to the switch and connect to the white wire in the harness to the rear.

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Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #262 · 3 mo ago

Finally fixed that backup lights problem, after testing the switch and plugs which were totally corroded, I ran a new switched hot wire and a return white/black and connect directly to white/black at the fuze panel running to the back of jeep. I think i could also fix the 4x4 light but I really don't need a light to tell me im in 4 wheel drive..

Finally all my electrical problems are over.

I think I am ready for inspection, I didn't check the parking break, but did notice everything looks new for the brake lines.

Reactions: 2

pedal2themetai

· #263 · 3 mo ago

HI,
the parking brake is not operated by the hydraulic lines the parking brake is operated by cable. there should be a cable from the praking brake pull to a joint the goes to both rear sides backing plate to pull the shoe's

good luck take care be safe
tim

Reactions: 1

Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #264 · 3 mo ago

pedal2themetai said:
HI,
the parking brake is not operated by the hydraulic lines the parking brake is operated by cable. there should be a cable from the praking brake pull to a joint the goes to both rear sides backing plate to pull the shoe's

good luck take care be safe
tim

Ya thats what i meant to say line= cable... I got all the parts to fix if needed. I bought for my '85 and never got to it.

jeep_boy02

· #265 · 3 mo ago

I know states and even locations in same state vary but I've never had my parking brake checked.

Usually just lights, horn, VIN and milage. Occasionally tierod ends but rarely.

buying too many parts for too many Jeeps

Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #266 · 3 mo ago

jeep_boy02 said:
Usually just lights, horn, VIN and milage. Occasionally tierod ends but rarely.

I'm in NY and here if its over 25 years old its only a safety check, lights, breaks, tires, steering components... Never vin or milage.

John Strenk

· #267 · 3 mo ago

Krkman13 said:
.....

Finally all my electrical problems are over.

......

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Reactions: 3

Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #268 · 3 mo ago

@John Strenk I know thats a tall statement. Soon I'll conquer the wad of wires going to that alternator. Today its a new volt meter, the old one is missing the pointer needle.

And i guess I should try the ebrake... Kinda scared of that. But i need it for the boat launches.

Thanks for all your help along the way in this thread. And everyone else.

Reactions: 2

Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #269 · 3 mo ago

3

Update...

The alternator didn't work...

So i got some new installations.

New powermaster alternator.
New temperature guage.
New voltage guage.
New engine fan.
New T handle(locking) and cable assembly for rear hatch.

Everything is up and running... Time finally to get it inspected next week.

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Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #270 · 28 d ago

So my '86 cj7 has a 304, with a t5 and dana 300.

I just bought a T15 connected to a dana 20.

Will the drive shafts i have now still be the right ones/length?

Is the bell housing the same for a t15 or do I need a different housing?

And it will need a different clutch also correct?

Hurricane4

· #271 · 27 d ago

Novak’s site:

The Novak Guide to the Borg-Warner T15 Transmission

The Novak Guide to the Borg-Warner T15 Transmission

www.novak-adapt.com

Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #272 · 27 d ago

Mine is a FSJ T15 is that a problem?

Hurricane4

· #273 · 27 d ago

2

From Novak's site:

The T15 is 3/4" longer than the T150.

The Jeep CJ T15 had a 1-1/8" x 10 spline input shaft (or "clutch shaft") with an ~8-1/2" stick-out length and its pilot tip is ~3/4" in diameter.

The Jeep FSJ T15 from 1971-1979 had a 1-1/8" x 10 spline input shaft with an ~11" stick-out length and its pilot tip is ~3/4" in diameter, and
was factory installed using a cast spacer to place the trans closer to the driver.

AMC 232 & 258, 304 & 360

The 1971-1975 Jeeps with the AMC I6 & V8 had a bellhousing that married directly to the T15. This was a deeper bellhousing (~9") than
the standard AMC bellhousings that would be released in 1976.

The Jeep T150 has a 1-3/8" x 6 spline output shaft for mounting the transfer case input gear. The transmission has a 7-1/2" input shaft
(stick-out length) with 1-1/16" x 10 splines and a neoprene front seal and cast iron bearing retainer. The pilot tip is ~17mm.

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Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #274 · 27 d ago

Hurricane4 said:
The Jeep FSJ T15 from 1971-1979 had a 1-1/8" x 10 spline input shaft with an ~11" stick-out length and its pilot tip is ~3/4" in diameter, and
was factory installed using a cast spacer to place the trans closer to the driver.

Thats going to be a problem...

JeepCJ

· #275 · 27 d ago

I think I missed something. Why are you swapping a T15 and Dana 20? The Dana 300 has lower gearing and more ability to go lower geared and beefier. You can find a T18/NP435 and just get an adapter to the 300 you have.

Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #276 · 27 d ago

JeepCJ said:
I think I missed something. Why are you swapping a T15 and Dana 20? The Dana 300 has lower gearing and more ability to go lower geared and beefier. You can find a T18/NP435 and just get an adapter to the 300 you have.

Well I obviously didn't do enough research. 35 years ago I had a cj5 with a 304 and the t15, i loved it. This current 5 sp is not what i want. I didn't even consider the t18...

ChrisReyn

· #277 · 27 d ago

Are you just not liking the T5? If you swap in a AX-15, it should mate to both the AMC bellhousing and D300( with adapter). It would give you the overdrive but with a med duty trans rather than the light duty of the T5. It would require modifing the driveshafts tho.

Krkman13

Discussion Starter · #278 · 27 d ago

ChrisReyn said:
you just not liking the T5?

Known to be weak... There is nothing wrong with it now. Just always wanted that 3 sp again.

Reactions: 1

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