Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
21 - 40 of 73 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
The underbody looked good. It's been in Colorado for at least the last 80k, for what that's worth.

I'll look specifically at the mounts. It was a no-brainer because of the price, and it was starting to rain, so we basically did a test drive & checked some of the codes, and pulled the trigger. I looked underneath and it looked really clean. I'll see if there's a garage that will put it up on a lift & let me check it out from underneath.

One of the things I'm good with are electrical issues :) I'm definitely not an EE, but I was originally going to go to school for that (ended up in CS instead). That's good to know about corrosion, and I'll get out the Deoxit whenever I have a connector apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
The build sheet lists a 220A alternator, which will be great (unless it's been swapped out of course); QuadraDrive II; external oil cooler & heavy duty engine cooling (not sure how much of this was optional for 2012). I think there's a skid plate or two nearer the front.

Can you tell this is my first GC? I'm old, just not today.

Anyways, next up is checking the VIN against recalls/TSBs and seeing what was done & if anything needs looked at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,254 Posts
Overlands use actual leather in their seats (albeit processed leather), So using a ph neutral conditioner free of harsh chemicals or cleaners is totally safe. Conditioners for saddle leather typically contain a cleaning agent vs automotive grade. As far as a product like Maguires Vinyl cleaner /conditioner … That’s just a cute name for make stuff look slick by putting a protective glossy UV coating over it, but people like to think that they’re actually “conditioning” they’re vinyl lol. They do work it on vinyl though. Aerospace 303 works well too, although blotchy with 1 application.

As far as all other Jeep/Chrysler products… They are notorious for the vinyl side bolsters on seats cracking with age. Vinyl, while not a natural product like leather, does “dry out” and crack with age. This occurs when bonding agents and plasticized top coats fail overtime due to environmental exposures. Using a product that keeps it protected (like Aerospace 303, Meg’s vinyl conditioner etc) will help prolong its life. The proof is in the pudding, because 99% of car owners don’t treat their seats…and the result speaks for itself. There are certainly better products out there, but I assume you want something that you can find in your local auto parts store.

For what it’s worth, I have detailed show cars professionally (sema stuff), have auto body training, and assisted in drafting the guidelines for Chrysler by-back & lease turn-back standards during my time with Chrysler. But I still consider it a hobby. Guys like Larry with Ammo NYC are next level. Google that guy, he’s a world renowned detailer
 
  • Like
Reactions: capacitor

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,254 Posts
Is Plasti-Dip too tacky? I mean I'm not proud...
just paint the wheels with some duplicolor. I used to use their suv/truck paint in gunmetal on old rims …it turned out ok. If the rims are in bad shape, plasty dip is not necessarily the way to go.The whole point of plasty dip is that it’s temporary. Doesn’t have the same UV resistance that paint does. It takes a lot of coats for it to form a thick enough layer that you can peel it off in the future. And it doesn’t have the same longevity or touchup ability. So if the rims look like trash as is, you might as well shoot them with actual paint. Just my .2cents
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I'm a big fan of 303. Thank you for the leather info. I should be able to even out the scratches using something like sandpaper, and use real paint :) They aren't super terrible, just not super great.

Just got back from gathering some remaining driveline codes. There are two codes for the air suspension, both relating to the compressor timing out/over temp. I expected that & will address it sooner rather than later. I'm going to run a simple indicator light from the compressor power actuator, so that I can see at a glance when it's in operation. I'll also see if AlfaOBD can capture a running log.

The only unexpected thing is the electronic LSD that came with QDII. It is logging 4 codes & I'm checking those out next. @ColdCase 's advice about paying attention to connectors is hopefully going to help here :) We'll see, but I'm all about salvage/auto recycling/buying used modules & parts, instead of going to the dealership. Serv 4WD is on and TC is disabled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Bad form to reply to my own, I know.

ELSD actuator is the likely culprit. I'll clean the connectors & reset the codes first, though. It drives fine.

Big Edit: some of this actually refers to a 2005 ELSD which works fundamentally differently to the 2012 units.



In a nutshell, the ELSD actuator/solenoid/motor can go, and maybe take the controller with it. The location of the controller & possible refurb of the motor is briefly discussed in the 2nd link. The first link has a great YT video (warning! might not be at applicable to the 2012 design) on replacing the motor, which is within the rear differential housing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,254 Posts
Post a pic of the scratches…I’ll give you some tips on how to improve it (the safest way possible).
 
  • Like
Reactions: capacitor

·
My Reality Check Bounced
Joined
·
19,340 Posts
Overlands use actual leather in their seats (albeit processed leather),
All WK2 leather seats, regardless of model, are thin leather topped by a plastic coating. Common in vehicles now days. Acrual leather yeah but different. Never use a conditioner. Only use a cleaner stronger than distilled water if you have too. If you intend to trade within three years, it doesn't matter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
I checked out the wheels closely, as well as the build sheet.

20x8.0 Bright Polished Alum Wheels

and they look like (except for the scratches/slight discoloration) polished aluminum. I'm wondering if I can simply do hand resurfacing, polish them mechanically, and maybe then apply some kind of protective coating, instead of painting them. I used to have a bike that was like that, but getting in the nooks/crannies was a real pita when it came time for it..

I know that I need to get you guys some photos. The back seat area looks really pretty great - just a bunch of buildup mainly in the driver's area. Looks great under the rain!

Really appreciate the wisdom.
 

·
My Reality Check Bounced
Joined
·
19,340 Posts
Just got back from gathering some remaining driveline codes. There are two codes for the air suspension, both relating to the compressor timing out/over temp. I expected that & will address it sooner rather than later. I'm going to run a simple indicator light from the compressor power actuator, so that I can see at a glance when it's in operation. I'll also see if AlfaOBD can capture a running log.
You have a leak, the light duty compressor is overworking trying to make up for it and overheating. The next thing will be a clatter and copressor lock up. If you find the leak and fix it, you may be able to save the compressor. I'd focus on applying soapy solution to line connectors and finding than that leak than continuing to abuse the compressor and characterizing it. The O rings within the connectors can shrink and leak. But its your call. Most salvage yard compressors are pulled and sent to rebuilders.
 
  • Like
Reactions: capacitor

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Totally copy that. I did find a good starting technique posted and will give that a good try. I have a Pilot to drive & sell so I do not have to go anywhere in the Jeep for the time being. That gives me time to let it sit during diagnostics.

Edit: I'm going to run that indicator regardless, since I'm the warranty on it now :)

...plus it's damn hot out without a/c...
 

·
My Reality Check Bounced
Joined
·
19,340 Posts
In a nutshell, the ELSD actuator/solenoid/motor can go, and maybe take the controller with it. The location of the controller & possible refurb of the motor is briefly discussed in the 2nd link. The first link has a great YT video on replacing the motor, which is within the rear differential housing.
What are the ELSD codes, may be able to save you some time. But then you may learn more on your own :)

Some discussion here, there are other threads. Replacing the module and ELSD motor is pretty straight forward, plug and play. An ELSD fail is rare, but they can fail, seems after an encounter with water :

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Interesting! I'll post the codes in a sec. I'm used to passing along help more often than not, and I really appreciate receiving it for a change :) :) Especially when it comes to cosmetics. I'm all about getting things working reliably, and usually consider shiny to be a luxury :)

Colorado weather is traditionally funky. Dry, but every once in awhile we get dumped on. Denver has pretty stout sewer systems for handling this, generally speaking. Things get wet that don't have a lot of experience at being in that condition.

Earlier I drove by someone with an intake snorkel, and thought maybe that's something good to have. For once.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Here is how AlfaODB logs faults (in this case, ELSD):

Reading faults for: Electronic Limited Slip Differential
___
Faults reported:

7/18/2022 6:31:24 PM
Faults found.
U0414
U1450
C148F
C2220
 

·
My Reality Check Bounced
Joined
·
19,340 Posts

In a nutshell, the ELSD actuator/solenoid/motor can go, and maybe take the controller with it. .... The first link has a great YT video on replacing the motor, which is within the rear differential housing.
By the way, That link seems to be a video about the 2005 model. The WK2 is entirely different. The 2005 is entirely mechanical, with gyrotor driven hydraulics. The only electrical contol is a disable solenoid to disable the lock up when ABS is active. It needs wheel spin to drive the pump that locks the diff. The WK2 is a clutch pack driven by an electric motor similar to the transfer case. The motor is controlled by a computer and the diff does not need wheel spin to lock. I'm kinda surprised that in 2020 there is still confusion about that. The FAQ sticky thread contains more detail.
 
  • Like
Reactions: capacitor

·
My Reality Check Bounced
Joined
·
19,340 Posts
Here is how AlfaODB logs faults (in this case, ELSD):

Reading faults for: Electronic Limited Slip Differential
___
Faults reported:

7/18/2022 6:31:24 PM
Faults found.
U0414
U1450
C148F
C2220
Sounds like the controller is running but is not getting CAN bus messages from the Drive Train Controller, (AKA Traction Control Computer). It is also saying an internal controller fault is detected and that it thinks the motor is out or range, or drawing too much current. A shop would check the module connections and then replace the ELSD control module. But it could also be a CAN bus or TIPM misbehaving. ELSD modules are not vehicle specific, as long as you find one compatible with your model year.

I've heard that a bad motor can take out the controller and that many shops replace both.
 
  • Like
Reactions: capacitor

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Lots of thanks :) One thing I know to do is to check out the TIPM thoroughly, because it's a probable failure point. I'm (in theory) good enough of a tech to be able to do component level repair on those modules.

What I find really funny & ironic is - in Honda Pilot land - one of the most complicated things to typically have to fix is the Honda main FI/ECU/engine relay (forget what it's officially called atm) that their supplier didn't do a great flow soldering job on back in the day. So the fix there is literally removing it, popping the plastic housing off, reflowing the (rather thick) traces, and life is good for the life of the component :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,254 Posts
All WK2 leather seats, regardless of model, are thin leather topped by a plastic coating. Common in vehicles now days. Acrual leather yeah but different. Never use a conditioner. Only use a cleaner stronger than distilled water if you have too. If you intend to trade within three years, it doesn't matter.
Hmmm…maybe things are different here, but not all WK2 seats are created Laredo X and Limited base have “Capri leather” leather / vinyl mix (just like the minivans, Liberties, 300s etc) . Leather was just in the middle. Overlands + had standard Napa leather (including “Saddle” finish) where the top of the side bolsters was leather instead of vinyl. Sorry to nerd out…it was literally my job to know some of this stuff.

But anyway, take our opinions with a grain of salt. Or trust Mopar’s line of car care products.
They sell “conditioners” or treatments (including MasterShield leather/vinyl 2 step care) which are almost a form of wax or sealant to extend the life of the top dye coat. They also sell paint conditioner…which is again just a gimmicky name. Good luck with it all!
 

·
My Reality Check Bounced
Joined
·
19,340 Posts
I have an Overland, the leather surfaces are coated with plastic. The neighbor has a Summit. His leather is coated with plastic. Napa is just another type/grade/texture/thickness of leather under the plastic coating. Some models have vinyl or cloth sides, some have mostly leather. But wherever the leather surfaces are, it is always plastic coated leather. There are only a few cars now days that have actual leather on the surface of the seats, none are WK2s. Not sure if there is some nerdy communication disconnect here, but the construction of seating fabric is pretty much well known. There is quite a bit of FUD in the community, however. :)

When I get a chance I'll pull up technical articles on the subject for you.

You can trust detailing pros or you can trust Jeep marketing.... dunno if Jeep wanting you to trade in every three years is a conflict of interest.... or why they sell products that conflict with the owners manual recommendations.

It is most important to not let the leather part of the seat dry out or become soaked. It is important not to clog the pores as conditioners are prone to do. A damp cloth wipe down once in awhile along with parking in the shade helps with that. Nothing more effective.
 
21 - 40 of 73 Posts
Top