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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been wanting to write this for a while since I have seen numerous threads here on this subject matter. As the saying goes there are many different ways to skin a cat. The way I will discuss is one way to get very good professional results.

As a kid in the early 70s I worked in body shops acrylic lacquer and enamel were pretty much state of the art. Bondo was a miracle though I did work with a few guys that still used lead as body filler occasionally.

I moved on to construction in the mid 70s though I did dabble in painting Harley's in the 80 and early 90s.

I have an 85 CJ that I bought in CA and its was a piece of junk when I got it. The body was good but everything else shot, mickey moused or just messed up. I put a stoker in it and rebuilt or replaced the running gear stem to stern. Lets say I have a lot of money into it so when I moved back to Chicago last year I suddenly was reacquainted with the rust belt. That red paint job that would have lasted forever in LA didnt last a few month out here. So I decided to repaint it. I also wanted to change the color to a dark blue from red personally I prefer the sleeper look. So I checked around at having it professionally done and decided against it for two reasons, one I wanted a really good job which would have been prohibitive and I wanted to know it would last.

Lets face the facts here these CJs are getting old and as time goes on these will become rarer to find. Even finding quality aftermarket parts is getting harder. So I want to preserve my CJ and not have it rust out.

So I did some research into painting as the times have changed. The paints have changed dramatically, Base Coat with a Clear Coat is the norm, Bondo is no longer king and the new spray guns look like some science fiction abortion. As I found out the EPA was one of the driving forces in the paint formulation changes along with the manufactures wanting a better quality of paint. And its not done yet LA CA is pushing for water borne paints and it may have happened out there already.

So I will be sharing what I have learned along with posting pictures. I will try to break this up into body work and then painting. For all practical purposes they are two different subjects. The prep is work! and painting is fun, but the prep makes the job.
 

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Looking forward to this!!!

Oh, and as of this moment, Ca doesn't require water borne paint yet, although we can't get half the paint that is offered for sale in this country......... Yay California!!!!

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well if your serious about doing body work first you will need to find a local automotive paint store. Trying to do this with supplies from NAPA or Pep Boys body work "dept" stuff is expensive and doesnt work nearly as well as the pro stuff.

There are on line suppliers such as the Autobody Store, TP Tools and Ketone Automotive that you can get some supplies sent to you. But stuff like paint, lacquer thinner for clean up and such you will have to get from a local supplier since they arent allowed to ship. Eastwood is a source their paint is relabled Kirker brand plus they sell a lot of over priced gimmicy stuff.

I think we should talk about what type of paint job you want to achieve. There are basicly two different types of paint out there now days. The most common is BC/CC or base coat clear coat and single stage paint.

The BC/CC route while giving a really nice durable paint job is probably a bit over kill on a Jeep in terms of cost, hours of work and difficulty or repair.

There are some rally good single stage paints out there that are durable but we will get into that a bit later on. Though the thing to remember is dont mix and mach paint products, If you select PPG paint then get their hardener and reducer. A lot of problems are caused by mixing product lines so what ever paint you decide on stick with that line.

If you look at the picture of my Jeep you will see the oxidation of the red paint which was a cheap paint job so I decided to strip all the paint off and start over. Also if you look at the running gear you will see how well Rustolium lasted after one season. Which by the way was done per instruction.

What do you guys want to cover stripping paint? patch panels? primers?
 

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Getting in on this early!

I would start with metal work and patch panels and work up from there. because thats the way body work goes! :p

Question #1. For body repair what gauge do you recommend (this is CJ specific)?

I read for floors use 18 and bodys use 20-22ga? Is this along what you would do? Im going to slowly start acumulating the supplies/metal to work on this new tub.

thanks!

Ben
 

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You can't cover too much, so by all means include what you want. I for one am "all ears". I'm in the middle of a BC/CC paint job on my Willys. getting ready to start a single stage job on my Scout. Learning as I go of course.
 

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Im extremely interested in patch panels but even more so with paint stripping. would you use, sanders, wire wheels, flap disks.... where and why?

many of us have rust issues with the current paint job. obviously, those areas would have to be taken down to bare metal; but would the rest of the rig need that too and why?

Crawled!
 

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Im extremely interested in patch panels but even more so with paint stripping. would you use, sanders, wire wheels, flap disks.... where and why?

many of us have rust issues with the current paint job. obviously, those areas would have to be taken down to bare metal; but would the rest of the rig need that too and why?

Crawled!
:thumbsup:

agreed! Start here, please :D

Ben
 

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My 85 has been sitting for a year waiting on this thread. Very interested, lots of detail please, first timer......

Thanks
 

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Subscribed. Wish you were closer. I would lend you a hand just to learn. Thanks for posting.
 

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Subscribed as well. I feel your pain in the rust-belt. Down here near St. Louis they salt the roads plenty.

Through Highschool/Tech college I worked in a body shop as well. I was just the clean up kid, oil change guy, tires, and basic maintenance. I've only been out of the shop for 9 months, I kind of miss it. I'm mostly interested in how you handle the rust prevention. My 05 TJ has some decent rust already! I just hope I can keep it intact for a few more years til I can pop it off the frame and go to town on it.

Looking forward to this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok gents I have received a couple PMs on how to lay this out so we will treat this as several different subjects to make it easier to research for others down the line.

I think we should make one thread methods and means of body work and paint prep and the other methods and means of paint.

Now to answer the question above on body work tools what they are and what their used for. Also please note I have all have alot of tools that make the job easier but arent all ways required. So I will rate them on a scale of 1-10 a 1 means nice but not necessary a 10 is a must have.


The upper left hand corner is a variable speed sander buffer with the speed set at about 1000 RPMS and 80 grit paper it will shred paint off anything with out heating up the metal or grinding into the metal. The hood was stripped with this and it took about 10 mins and 3 sheets of paper. If you can get your hands on a variable speed sander it will make you like easier.

Next is a mud hog its a 8' gear driven DA used for leveling body filler it take the place of a air file. Its nice but not required so I rate this a 3.

Next is a Dual Action sander AKA DA nice to have but its a 3.

The fourth Item is a min DA with a two and three inch pad this is a handy little item for tight areas but still only a three.

The top right is a undercoat remover and it works great on removing bed liner. I had bed liner under this hood and it was all gone in about 10 min. Its the only real way to remove bed liner so if you are removing it its a 10 otherwise its a 1.

In the center is a right angle die grinder cheap and can be mounted with Scotch Brite pads or sand paper cheap and make like so much easier its rated as an 8.

Body hammer and dolly if you need one, get it to smooth out dents other wise pass.

The wierd looking black things are Dura Blocks used for sanding and leveling this are a must have about 80 dollars for the whole enchilada but well worth it.

The bottom is a Stanley Surfoam its a couple bucks and you really cant live with out this one.

So really you can get by with the Surfoam and the Dura Blocks minimum the rest is nice to have.
 

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what differences would we see between the min DA (rated a 3) and the right angle die grinder (rated an 8)?
 
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