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Lowering a TJR - Dealing with Adjustable Track Bar

675 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  LoctiteMonster
I'm going to help a friend lower his 4" lifted 2004 Rubicon TJ down to a more manageable 1". He has an auto transmission and doesn't want to spend the money on gears. Besides that, his wife wasn't happy with his decision. He has returned to the stock tire size. The plan is to install the following:
H&R springs
Rancho 5000X shocks
OME rear track bar bracket (currently has RE bracket with stock track bar). This is optional, only if needed to recenter rear axle.
Replace drop pitman arm with a stock one from Crown or wherever
Replace front and rear control arms with stock units from Crown or wherever
Replace CV rear driveshaft with stock driveshaft (stock driveshaft is all he kept from when the lift was installed).
Pull all of the additional bump stops out.
Pull the transfer case skid plate drop out.
Either keep and readjust front JKS track bar, and add required bump stops after cycling suspension.

So, the front TB is where I am looking for some real world experience. Would it make more sense to just replace the JKS TB with a stock Moog TB? I'm assuming the frame mount was drilled out for the 9/16" bolt to go through. Would there be enough of the existing tapered bore left to hold the mount tight? I think that the clamp force is probably the key factor here and even though some of the hole is enlarge, he would be good. Does anyone have any experience with returning a stock track bar to their TJ?

The JKS TB is about 6 years old so I think it is the older version It looks different than my 1 year old one on my TJ. It has a grease nipple on the frame bolt, nothing on the JJ mount. My newer one has a grease nipple on the JJ mount and just a regular frame bolt. Does anyone know if they have always used a 9/16" bolt at the frame?
Is there anyone that has done this before and successfully kept their previous adjustable TB? I'm especially interested in hearing from someone who has done this on a Rubicon with the D44.
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Here is a recent discussion about using tapered inserts to go back to OEM in the frame side bracket:
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