Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
1 - 20 of 62 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
Wire brush, bigred’s vinegar, then steel wool and paint thinner. Polish machined rounds lightly with 600 wet/dry, wash with hot soapy to flood away carbide, and dry. Do the machined surfaces last after wire wheeling on the cast/forged raw surfaces.

And RustReformer has worked great for me, too.
If you get super rust-free with vinegar, though, rustoleum tech warns to not use it because it needs to react with the oxidation- clean brite steel can ‘flash rust’ with rust converter application. The red “rusty metal primer” sticks very well to clean rusty metal or bright metal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NHfireLJ

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
That was interesting reading. Good cursory overview.
I’m no engineer but I did note that while they cover caster characteristics and benefits, none of the sources mentioned leverage or compoumded damping from mass which are the two primary ways that caster benefits steering drivability.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
I got an email from Photobucket that they will be deleting my photos to either have 2.5 gb or 250 photos.
I have been uploading pics a while but my early ones are hosted and I may not be able to re-upload. Which sucks because it kills my build. Oh well.
Sent from my naivePhone using photoKilledTheBucket
I havent recieved that email. I need to get off my behind and get all my photos off and fix my build thread before half of it is gone.
This or something like it, + Carbonite
WD 3TB Cloud https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVVGAC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uiWTCb15M5C6D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
...budget your time and do three a day or something?.........
A good idea. At that rate I'll be done in 6 months or so
That's how I eliminated tons of stuff in storage. Some stuff from 20 years back, but in all that stuff I didn't intend to accumulate there was like something in every box I was so glad to find.

The photos shouldn't be too daunting 🙂
And people will appreciate it !!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
I think I’d entertain building a tow hitch receiver type mount before I’d unbolt it semi-permanent like.
At least that way you could put a “receiver” in the back cargo area and use a locking receiver pin to keep it from wandering off while still having it available.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Azhunter1

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
Approach Angle is the angle of intersection of a straight line from tire front to bumper/shackle/frame. 4 inches is huge and would mean several engineering feats like driveshaft length and sway bar position (if he runs one) not just steering shaft. Everything from spring mounts, to tire coverage (if laws affect him), to brake lines would need to be addressed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
Battery: there’s a point that the plates are “done” but I learned sumpin dis summer running a 24’ camper trailer 100% solar: the ‘smart’ charge controller can take a 2009 mfg group 29 that wouldn’t keep over 12V charge and sorta fix it. It automatically “equalizes” the batteries about every 5-8 days. I’m impressed. It took like three cycles to straighten out but I measured the unloaded equalize voltage one day for the fun of it and I read almost 18V. I don’t know if car batteries have enough plate for this but I’m wondering if they’d respond to “treatment.” Just a random thing that came to mind reading this.
It performs about like a half decent 27 in pair with a ‘good’ 5-year-old group 27.

FWIW walmartha Everstart Maxx can be very competitive pricewise and I’ve had excellent service from them since the 90s. Might be a way to soften the hit and still get a decent battery.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
I’d do it.
The interstate, everstart maxx, die hard - and I think the duralast- are all made by the same last I knew. So whoever sells one at s decent price...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
Yep. That's just some of it. Good news is I got the sector shaft out and I could spin the input shaft. I think it is salvagek
Cool.
Just carefully polish the shaft seal areas with 400 wet-and-dry and wash with hot soapy water after. (Hot water rinse dries nearly instantly)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
I don't even need one and I want it.
Its the new shininess that is making you want it. Everyone loves having clean, shiny and new parts especially on their Jeeps!!!
I never actually thought of that!

I've been getting weirder in my old age; I've been doing without a lot, holding out for Made In USA on a longer list of items than I used to. I don't mean snapon-price-point but there's a lot of things where Made In USA is just worth it in a long term view (both in quality and broader economic benefits).

We have the stuff available that and we depend on from Omix, but a lot of it is overpriced and/or crap, for example. If "we" didn't accept it or buy it they wouldn't have it for sale...

Made In USA means more today than 20 years back and it's "our" own fault it's declining.

Those pumps without the model specific plates and brackets are OEM the same part number from like CJs all the way to 2019 Wronglers.
They're still Made In USA because they're still being bought. So it's not a cheap imposter.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
In my younger days after re-buying a few pricey parts got broken I gave up on trying to adjust pressed in tubey things
The last one I think was a carb.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,305 Posts
^^^yes. You can still bend the yoke with the ball joint tool if not careful.

BTW if you don’t have one Louie you need a solid, heavy bench with heavy legs and a big vise. The legs firm on concrete.
That way 100% of the energy of your hits goes to the ujoint. “Free air” hammering on the ground or even any wood bench with rebound will steal 95% of the hammer’s energy and that’s how you damage the yoke ears and just make life worse
Sometimes it’s amazing how easy even rusty ujoints will move on a solid work base.
 
1 - 20 of 62 Posts
Top