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[email protected]@K - Better than WDforty - PB b last er and a diy mod too

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Better than WD-40!? I think so, better than PBblaster. You be the judge.....

I was searching for a DIY cheaper alternative to expensive and quickly used up cans of wdforty and and PB blaster. Found this formula somewhere and saved the cliff notes. Sharing it with you good people.

Make a HOMEMADE 50/50 mix of

1. Brake fluid
2. Transmission fluid

Simple. Easy. Put in equal amounts in your choice of appropriate applicator, such as....

Put in a squirt lube type gun or, get a squirt bottle with viton or other oil resistant type seals for best results.

Apply liberally, as needed.

This penetrating diy mixture is cheap to make in bulk and will bust rusted bolts and nuts loose as well or better than PB blaster IMO.

Note: Give it some time to work, It just needs to sit and penetrate to do its job.

If this tip helps you and saves you money please post your comments below.

$$$ Show some love jeepers.

Give me a ****"LIKE"**** for sharing this with you. Thx
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wd is not really for rusted bolts. I have heard that it was made to clean stainless steal? might be a rumor.

PB is not the best as well in a can. Kano Kroil would work better then PB, expensive though.

never tried this idea. but i have that stuff on hand anyway. but rust here in Az is like ocean front property. Its coming just very slowly....
 

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+1 for "wd is not really for rusted bolts" the WD stands for water displacement if I have that correct. I used the mix before works well you just have to leave it on overnight. I still use the blaster also.
 

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WD40 is indeed Water Displacement, formula 40. It's not designed for rust penetration but usually works on mildly rusted bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
wd is not really for rusted bolts. I have heard that it was made to clean stainless steal? might be a rumor.

PB is not the best as well in a can. Kano Kroil would work better then PB, expensive though.

never tried this idea. but i have that stuff on hand anyway. but rust here in Az is like ocean front property. Its coming just very slowly....
So, folks, the point of this thread, has gone away from the original intent.

I am not advocating WD40 for rusted metal parts or that "water displacement 40" is or is not the abreviated term for the meaning of WD. Do some people use it for other things besides its stated and intended use, yes. Is it a rust buster by chemistry, no.

What I am saying is that the mixture of brake fluid and transmission fluid at a 50/50 equal parts mixture, applied liberally to rusted bolts and rusted, seized metal parts, works well to loosen and free rusted or rust welded metal parts, and at a lower price point than the cost of WD40 or PB blaster alone.

In other words its simply a DIY recipe that Ive found useful and thought Id ahare the information with others diy'ers so they can try this mix for these applications to keep money money in their wallets. Fair enough?

Sent from my SM-T567V using Tapatalk
 

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Some folks advocate acetone and ATF in the same ratio. It seems to work ok, but it really depends on where the vehicle is from and how it's been treated.
I used this mix also in a pinch. The problem is acetone is combustible. Get it on paint, a seal or plastic is not good. If I have a real problem especially on longer studs with a nut I brush on muriatic acid. you can't get this on anything either. I put it on then wait 15 minutes wash it off take a look if it needs more I put it on again as many times as needed. I almost never use it. Never on a ride yet. At work only a few times
 

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Yeah... not a fan of brake fluid on anything except contained in the brake system, just a killer on any paint.

Just about any thin penetrating oil works about as well as any other IF you can get it INTO the area you need it.

Wire wheels and brushes + heat + impacts + repeated applications + time to work seem to be the keys to success on most rusted things if they are going to break loose at all.

There is no magic oil formula.

Breaking the bond and getting oil INTO it is all that will do anything.

If you get that 1st movement then stop re clean and re flood it and work it back and forth.
stop and re heat and re flood.

Rust takes up to 14 times the space of the original space the steel or iron did and that is what locks it.

I had an very old hit and miss engine the was impossibly locked together and I was able to silicone on a container to hold evaporust on the head. the result was amazing then with a combination of all the above techniques I got some movement. re silicone on the container and more evaporust for a couple days and it all came apart with 0 damage.

The point of this was to dissolve enough rust so the oils could penetrate into the areas to start the process.

Breaking the bond is the hard part and heat is about all you can do in some blind areas. In some cases, drilling a small hole might work to get some oil into the area needed.
 
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