Just finished installing my Rough country 4in lift(with pics)... Have a few questions

7716 Views 62 Replies 31 Participants Last post by dmgiff, Jun 12, 2009

Arron

Discussion Starter · Feb 23, 2009 (Edited)

20

I have finished installing the rc 4in lift and i have to say i am pleased with how it turned out. It wheels nice too!

more recent pictures from last wheeling trip some are my buddies jeeps:

Before lift:

After:

Its much higher and looks great. Although it was anything but easy going. Since ive wheeled it and the jeep is an 01 there was a ton of rusty bolts, a few of which i broke. This brings me to a few questions:

1)I broke one bolt on the rear right upper shock mount and half the bolt is in the body nut still. Any suggestions other then drill it a get a tap? What size tap?

2)With all my horrible luck my torque wrench never clicked when tightening the last lower control arm bolt (arm to body) on the driver rear and i ended up twisting it in half and welding part of it to the frame which made the hole 1.5mm smaller and i had to re-drill the hole. Since jeep wanted $35 for new lower control arm bolt and nut and could not get it until wednesday or thursday i went to O'reilly's and picked up a grade 5 metric bolt (although it says 8.8 on the head of the bolt) for $2 with the exact same OD as the stock bolt (13.75mm). My question is should this just be a temporary fix or would the grade 5 (or 8.8?) metric bolt be strong enough to withstand off road use?

3) Again with my rusty bolt twisting luck i broke the drag link bolt that attaches to the axle as i was removing it. I ended up using one of the bolts from the rough country lift. It says 8.8 on the head of the bolt. My question is will this bolt be strong enough?

Other then the above problems install wasn't half bad just very time consuming as the amount of work is deceiving. After 14 hours of non stop work, some cursing, a few "cold refreshments", and no sleep for a night we finally got everything installed and it finally looks like an off road beast.

Thanks in advance for any input.

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bmxrules39

· #21 · Feb 25, 2009

Arron said:
How did you break them and exactly where did they break? Where the track bar mounts to the axle or the frame?

The rear broke when I was playing a little too hard in the dirt, I did a donut on not-so-even terrain and when I went back to driving straight, I noticed A LOT of movement back there, it broke right where it bolts to the stock bracket on the axle, on both sides of the bolt, where it is the thinnest. I just removed the bolt and welded the whole thing.

I don't know how the front broke, I didn't notice it immediately but it broke in the same spot. The front still has the bolt in it, and it's all just welded together.

Arron

Discussion Starter · #22 · Mar 4, 2009

Well ive got all the loose ends tied up except changing out the pitman arm on the steering box. I know they (RC) include a new pitman arm for a reason but what is wrong with the stock one other then the steering wheel is no longer centered?

Fischey

· #23 · Mar 4, 2009

Haha nice man, an FD and a TJ.

Very similar to my two babies (same colors too).

1990 300ZX Twin Turbo

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RuffTJ

· #24 · Mar 4, 2009

Did u use the t case drop? doesnt look like it from the pics but im not sure. If not, have u gotten any vibes?

greentank

· #25 · Mar 4, 2009

the pitman arm is longer and will help restore the correct angle on the drag link, it will help with any bump steer that you encounter. also you need to have it aligned after installing the lift because the geometry of your tie rod system will be out of whack. excessive toe in will eat your tires alive, not to mention possibility of the dreaded "DEATH WOBBLE" but looks good I have the same lift:cheers2:

Eric554

· #26 · Mar 4, 2009

Did you need an SYE and new driveshaft?

crateampscal

· #27 · Mar 4, 2009

is this that the new X lift?

Arron

Discussion Starter · #28 · Mar 6, 2009

RuffTJ05 said:
Did u use the t case drop? doesnt look like it from the pics but im not sure. If not, have u gotten any vibes?

I used the Tcase drop, it just blends in since it is black. Look close and you can see it.

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Arron

Discussion Starter · #29 · Mar 6, 2009

crateampscal said:
is this that the new X lift?

Nope but i wish it was. This is RC's $499 4in budget lift.

ccwrangler

· #30 · Mar 6, 2009

hehe I have an FD too. still rotary powered though =P. streetported and GT35R with microtec LT8

Arron

Discussion Starter · #31 · Mar 6, 2009

greentank said:
the pitman arm is longer and will help restore the correct angle on the drag link, it will help with any bump steer that you encounter. also you need to have it aligned after installing the lift because the geometry of your tie rod system will be out of whack. excessive toe in will eat your tires alive, not to mention possibility of the dreaded "DEATH WOBBLE" but looks good I have the same lift:cheers2:

What is the best way to remove the pitman arm? The directions say not to use a pickle fork but my pitman arm puller does not fit.

Arron

Discussion Starter · #32 · Mar 18, 2009

4

After picking up a set of Micky Thompson MTZs I decided to go wheeling with my buddy and his samurai which i must say is amazing off road.
I ended up sinking in some freshly deposited river gravel from the rain earlier that day. It didnt help that i had three people and a full tank of gas either.
I was coming out of that deep (~4feet) water hole behind my jeep and up the gravel bank when i sank and all attempts to get out made me sink worse so i had to winch out.

Other then getting stuck in some really loose gravel i was really happy with my new setup. The only issue I had was 4-LOW would pop out and go into neutral on occasion. It feels like its not engaging all the way. Im guessing either the trans drop moved it enough that the lever is coming into contact with the body or the 4wd relocation bracket needs some adjustments. Anyone else run into this issue after installing an RC lift?

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toberste

· #33 · Mar 18, 2009

got a good looking jeep there, and a bada** rx-7

Arron

Discussion Starter · #34 · Mar 18, 2009

toberste said:
got a good looking jeep there, and a bada** rx-7

Thanks for the complements!

Arron said:
The only issue I had was 4-LOW would pop out and go into neutral on occasion. It feels like its not engaging all the way. Im guessing either the trans drop moved it enough that the lever is coming into contact with the body or the 4wd relocation bracket needs some adjustments. Anyone else run into this issue after installing an RC lift?

^Anyone have any input?

gabriel05

· #35 · Mar 18, 2009

I have the same lift and I had to adjust the TC shifter linkage when I installed mine. I'm pretty sure the lift actually came with instructions to do so. I've had mine for about 2 years though. Things may have changed.

Arron

Discussion Starter · #36 · Mar 19, 2009 (Edited)

gabriel05 said:
I have the same lift and I had to adjust the TC shifter linkage when I installed mine. I'm pretty sure the lift actually came with instructions to do so. I've had mine for about 2 years though. Things may have changed.

It came with and i installed a relocation bracket that dropped the linkage down about an inch or so to stay even with the trans drop. I had to drill a new bolt hole in the bracket because the original location made the linkage hit the head of one of the bolts when selecting 4hi.

It will shift into 4lo but if im bouncing around on the rocks it will sometimes kick in between 4hi & 4lo with a loud pop sound like it isnt getting all the way into 4lo and its popping out because of it. At least i had no issues with 4lo popping out before i lifted it so im fairly certain it has something to do with it.
The directions said something about having to possibly cut/hammer the shifter hole on 5speed TJs but i have not needed to do so as it shifts without hitting the body. Could the 4wd selector be hitting the body?

Edit:
I did notice that after the lift the 4wd selector sat up a bit higher like it had been slightly pulled up but after pushing it down to find it would not go any lower i assumed that it was like that because the trans drop changed the angles of the linkage. Is that normal for the 4wd selector to be like that after installing the RC lift?

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gabriel05

· #37 · Mar 19, 2009

Hmmm.....When I installed the lift the kit didn't come with any brackets to move the linkage. I just added the TC drop (mine is a little over 1") and then adjusted the linkage per the instructions. My shifter actually seems to sit a little lower now which makes sense since I dropped the TC down. Honestly maybe try taking the linkage drop bracket off and re-adjust everything. Mine works fine without it.

Edit: I also have the 3 speed auto and mine is a '99 not sure if that would make a difference or not.

Arron

Discussion Starter · #38 · Mar 19, 2009

2

Here are a few pics so you can see what im talking about.

This is a picture of the supplied bracket attached to the original pivot point for the 4wd selector:

Here is the bolt i moved (arrow) because the original bolt hole location (circle) made the linkage hit the head of the bolt when going into 4hi (path of linkage in green):

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myrddin

· #39 · Mar 25, 2009

I am getting ready to install the RC X stretch kit in a few days... just wondering if you were able to remedy your problems? I think that it’s a common problem when the T case drop is used... I want to be ready...

01TJMudder

· #40 · Mar 25, 2009

i broke the bolt in my upper rear shock mount too. I took a drill bit and just drilled straight through the broken bolt. the remainder metal shards of the broken bolt fell out and I was able to re use the same welded nut without issue. hope this helps

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