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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Seems like JF pictures always default to landscape mode. So when taking pictures, keep you phone horizontal.
Good to know! Thanks John

Nice job on the OEM Tachometer. Was it hard to take apart? I need to repaint the black ring around mine as well, as it seems they all do that over time.
Taking apart:
Eh, It wasn't too difficult in my opinion, just slow going so I wouldn't break it. The chrome ring has a lip on it that "crimps" it to the housing. I used a flat head screwdriver to slowly and carefully bend the chrome ring off the housing. Then I was able to somehow take a smaller flat head screwdriver and side between the ring and housing. Be careful doing this part because the screw driver will be hitting the glass. From here the housing was flexible enough to slip out of the ring.

Only the chrome ring, glass, and a rubber gasket will come out so don't worry about the face or needle coming off. Be sure to clean the gasket off if your paint has flaked off. I had black paint on my gasket and I noticed it started to flake off as I was installing it, making me take it apart to clean it. Take a good measurement of the thickness of the black paint on the glass, I estimated it being about 1/4" but I did not have a good ring to measure. I also used enamel paint in the tiny jars for model cars.

Putting back together:
This was more of a pain. I had to open up the chrome ring some more using a needle nose pliers so I could slip it over the tach housing. It wasn't just a set in fit, I had to use a small screwdriver to assist it sliding on. I have not found a safe way to "re-crimp" the chrome ring for a more water resistant seal. If anyone has any experience sealing tachometers let me know! I would like the ring to be a little more snug. It won't come off, but I can spin it and before I took it apart it didn't spin.

I hope this helps anyone who may try this in the future!
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Fender repair help

A little set back on the grill this past week. Just didn't get to spray it with primer yet hopefully monday.

Im going to start on fender repairs and I have a question... Well more a less I need YOUR opinions.

Should I dig into the passenger fender or no? I'm talking about the cover plate that covers up the lower section of the fender where it joints to the tub. There is some rot on the cover with a few pin holes making that area very thin. I ultimately know if I tear it apart, I won't have any issues with it 30 years or better down the road. (yes, I plan on keeping the Jeep that long) But on the other hand, If I don't address it, is the risk of rust showing in another spot more likely?

The drivers side fender is getting replaced due to it having a hole the size of a golf ball in it from rust, right in the middle of the panel. I just want your opinions before I start drilling out spot welds on the passenger fender. Thanks in advance

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That’s a good question. My hardtop looks just like yours, a plastic hardtop vice the later fiberglass version. I rolled Rustoleum paint onto my Keyparts liftgate to get the texture.

You have a good thread going here, it’s nice to here the word “reducer” used when appropriate. As far as the spot welded fenders...I’ll be watching to see what you do, I’m behind you in my rebuild, so you just go ahead and break the ice and I will follow?
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
As far as the spot welded fenders...I'll be watching to see what you do, I'm behind you in my rebuild, so you just go ahead and break the ice and I will follow?
I'll definitely be breaking the ice with the drivers side fender for sure. I've got a rust hole in the inner fender where the washer fluid bottle and engine control module sits as well. That's thinner metal than the outer fender so I guess I need to get a tig welder if I want to do it myself. I don't think my mig welder will do the thinner inner fender well without blowing though. Even on the lowest recommended setting. As for now I'm closely reading Adam's 1979 CJ5 resto because he repaired the same areas of his fenders
 

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I'll definitely be breaking the ice with the drivers side fender for sure. I've got a rust hole in the inner fender where the washer fluid bottle and engine control module sits as well. That's thinner metal than the outer fender so I guess I need to get a tig welder if I want to do it myself. I don't think my mig welder will do the thinner inner fender well without blowing though. Even on the lowest recommended setting. As for now I'm closely reading Adam's 1979 CJ5 resto because he repaired the same areas of his fenders
No need for a TIG - unless you've been looking for a reason to get one. Set your MIG on the lowest setting, use thinner wire such as .023 if you can, and do a series of tacks. That method works fine on sheet metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
No need for a TIG - unless you've been looking for a reason to get one. Set your MIG on the lowest setting, use thinner wire such as .023 if you can, and do a series of tacks. That method works fine on sheet metal.
Yeah that's how I'm set up now with 75% argon 25% CO2 mix doing the small tacks. I was having a hard time with it on my grill so I figured I am too hot even on the lowest setting. I can give it a try I guess, it wouldn't hurt. I just had more consideration of the tig because that inner fender well is lighter sheet metal. I'll make sure to do a lot of trial runs first
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
***Longish Post be sure to check out links at the very end, I have text between photos in some places***
So here we go, I started tearing apart the in the drivers fender... I have repair panels for it I found on eBay (Ill post an initial review). I kinda cheated on this one because I knew the metal on both panels were not fixable or would require more work to save it. Knowing that I found these panels on eBay just made it easy to just replace.

First step was finding all the spot welds and drilling them out for the inner fender well. Pretty self explanatory so I feel a picture is not going to show much. I had to locate the cover plate spot welds and drill or grind those out too. Having the paint off of the fenders makes it easy to feel for the low spots. After each spot weld is drilled out it gets a little more flimsy, this can help show the hidden spot welds.

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My review of the panels I bought:
The panel that has the contours of the upper fender claim to be "New Old Stock". The only difference I see is that it does not have fender flair spots. No big deal there, a drill bit and file can fix that. The cover plate looks good but it does have minor differences. The seller does not claim this as "New Old Stock" but a reproduction. The size is very close, you can see in the pictures my red line from the original. Keep in mind this is just laying on the fender and not clamped in place. One other difference is my original cover plate has a bend at the very top to connect to the fenders upper most lip by the hood. The new one does not have this and I think I like that construction due to water being able to get between that panel.
This plate is also a little thicker than the original too. Again, not a big deal to me because who's gonna notice until you read this post? I'll update this review later after instillation is done.

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Links:
Passenger lower fender panel
Drivers side Lower fender panel
I guess the person with the cover plates are sold out.. Last I check they had a few.. the seller is named "cjsrus" and can be found here
They could be making more. I've had good experiences with them in the past
 

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Deerslayer-

I haven’t been on the forum much recently but finally found the time (and motivation) to restart the restoration of my 82 Scrambler. I stumbled across your build here and I’m VERY impressed with the work you’ve done!! I’d have ditched the fenders and bought replacements, but I really like your motivation to work with what you have. That fender skin is pretty cool (and didn’t know they even existed)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Deerslayer-

I haven't been on the forum much recently but finally found the time (and motivation) to restart the restoration of my 82 Scrambler. I stumbled across your build here and I'm VERY impressed with the work you've done!! I'd have ditched the fenders and bought replacements, but I really like your motivation to work with what you have. That fender skin is pretty cool (and didn't know they even existed)!
pman,

Thank you so much for the comments and tuning in to my thread. I really appreciate it! I've had this project going on two years now just taking my time and here lately, trying to share my work for those rebuilding or just doing small repairs. Those panels may have been just as expensive as a replacement fender, but I can say I repaired it and nothing beats OEM. I will say, if you search the internet hard enough, you can find a lot of odd parts for these old Jeeps. That's how I found the repair panels, endless searching.

I also want to thank everyone who reads and sends comments and suggestions! You guys help keep my motivation going and give me some ideas when I'm stuck.

More updates on the fender will be coming soon!
 

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Those panels may have been just as expensive as a replacement fender, but I can say I repaired it and nothing beats OEM.
That's the truth! The Cobra replacement fenders (specifically the passenger side) have fitment issues in a major way. A bunch of us commented on it here when I was going through that debacle with my CJ5 restoration. Unfortunately the PO had cut my fenders beyond repair, so I went the "new" route. In hindsight, I wish I'd sourced used fenders and windshield hinges. Hinges are another item the aftermarket can't get right!!

Will wait with my popcorn for your next update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Brought the grill back home from my work. It never made its way into the primer booth due to it getting taken out every time I was told "its getting primer on today". Just decided its better off at my house rather than being handled all the time. It still needs some sanding in my opinion, so when I get the fenders ready for some body filler, which that won't be much I'll sand it. Im going to keep the grill in the house so it doesn't rust or anything.

Heres some pictures below. If you see my previous posts, it has come a long way for sure. Water shouldn't be able to get to the areas that rusted out before. It's not terribly cold in Cincinnati but I'm ready for warmer weather. The cold garage is the only thing keeping me from working on things.
I also finally got all my OEM gages together and they are ready for installation but Im far from that right now!

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Under dash lights

I found some OEM under dash lights a few weeks ago and started to clean them up and decided to have some fun on my lunch breaks. I decided to make a model of the lens of the dash lights and to 3D print them in clear resin. I think they turned out really good for a first time print. Sometimes the prints aren't exact the first time but these fit real nice. I'm going to try and see if I can polish them up to make it look like it was injected molded. Tell me what you guys think!

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Very nice work on Additively Manufacturing those! When you get the chance, post that print file onto the sticky for CAD/CAM drawings!
Roger that! I have some refining to do dimension wise but I'll put up a common file that most folks can use since there are many types of printers and printer software.

This was done on a SLA resin printer
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
I know I let my updates go a little longer than I'd like but here's a fender update. I got most of the holes patched up.. I still have one to patch but I needed to assemble the fender for rigidity. It looks ugly but it will be filled in to perfection. Using some advice from NashvilleTJ, I found that my wire speed was too low. I'm using a Lincoln electric Pro Mig 175 from the early 2000s not that it matters lol

Anyways, here is what I finished last night. The good ol' harbor freight spot welder was busted out and it works wonders, although I could use a bigger spot weld tip. I still need to make a few spot welds in the areas the spot welder cant get but that's easy. All I need to do is fit up the cover, put seam sealer/ rust preventive and weld it up!

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Last night I spent a good chunk of time finishing the drivers side fender. Finally it is all spot welded and I got some filler over the welds. I did some sanding and realized that there are some low spots I'm not generally happy with but its okay. I'm going to do the same thing to the passenger fender so I wont post all that info since its practically the same.

Overall, I'm happy with it. I just need to bust out the seam sealer and seam seal the hell out of the cover panel. I did spray some rust prvenative on both the fender and cover plate but its still gonna get seam sealer.

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