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Discussion Starter · #323 ·
Thank you @bob4703 and @Jim1611!

New thermostat was installed yesterday and I put in a 180 degree stat. We are running MUCH better but I honestly think a 195 would be better. The Jeep runs at the start of the green line on the coolant gauge, which is fine. But when I turn off the engine and let it sit for about 2 minutes, the coolant gauge creeps to a bit under half. Napa was out of stock of the 195s and I didn't want to wait.

I'm going to leave it for now and see what it does. Summer time can creep into the upper 90s but I have a feeling it wont get any hotter than what I saw yesterday.

I found out that Bilstein is having a mega Jeep event on May 21st at the Ohio plant where I used to work. My goal is have it show worthy by then and show it. I bought this Jeep when I worked for Bilstein and everyone loved to see that I was restoring it. I'm excited for the summer!

More to follow in the next few days
 

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Discussion Starter · #324 ·
I accomplished a few things over the weekend that are hopefully going to move me in the positive direction... hopefully.

First off, I had a slight oil leak at the rear of the valve cover. I addressed that and while I was there, I retorqued the cylinder head and everything checked good. So far, no leaks... yet.
I tuned up the carb with the new thermostat in it and I can tell the engine runs way better than before. Better response, better cold start performance, and sounds better.

I also took another 10 SI alternator and stuck it on the Jeep. No known issues after about 20 miles... I think the new NAPA alts. are problematic. I hate to say that about them because I usually get better parts from them. Anyways, I have a rebuilt one that was on the shelf at my grandpas that went on and it has shown no problems charging or making a screaming noise.

@Jim1611's shackles were put on and I am impressed with the quality. Although I have not have the frame mounts on yet, they have proven to help the stability of the Jeep. I still get a little bit of side to side sway on the leaf springs but it seems more "normal" than the last shackles I had. I really like them and the gold color of the zinc plate. I just need to get the frame mounts back from powder coat and we will be good to go!

As I was waiting for the shackles, I spent a few days polishing these aluminum wheels up... Man, they were a pain. I used NAPAs aluminum bright to clean up all the tarnish and poor upkeep being on a roller chassis. After that, I took 1000, 2000, and 3000 grit paper to the wheel to clean up the pitting that was visible. Mothers aluminum and mag wheel cleaner was applied and I buffed it by hand and then used a drill and the mothers red ball. It took a few days but the look is 100 times better. Before they were dull and dingy, now they shine!

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Deer Slayer, I ran across your thread today and ended up reading all of it - TODAY! You've been on quite a journey and it's impressive how much of the work you've done yourself. The CJ is looking beautiful and it's really something to be proud of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #327 ·
Deer Slayer, I ran across your thread today and ended up reading all of it - TODAY! You've been on quite a journey and it's impressive how much of the work you've done yourself. The CJ is looking beautiful and it's really something to be proud of.
Thanks for the kind words! I'm really glad that the people who follow this thread have enjoyed reading and seeing this progress. It's been and still is a heck of a journey. I'm still tinkering away as I'm waiting for some more parts to arrive. The garage gets cleaner and cleaner each week! If the weather works out on Friday, it may be driven to work on its first longer trip! (about 25 miles one way)
 

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Discussion Starter · #328 ·
I haven't forgotten about you guys with updating about what I'm doing to the Jeep. Really, nothing has been changed or done to it. I maybe added a few stickers to it? I still have an oil leak coming from the back of the engine but its not life threating to it. I've decided to wait until the winter to fix it.

This weekend was pretty cool. Friday 6-24, I went to an event called The Great AMC Day at Edgewater motorsports park in Cincinnati. Lots of cool AMC stuff and I was 1 of 3 Jeeps! There was some good drag races between the Gremlins and the AMXs. The green and red Jeep were from the Carolinas and he did a wonderful job with them. Big V8s and well built. I really enjoyed looking at his work

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Sunday 6-26, was the Joe Nuxhall Miracle Fields - Cruise in For Kids Car show. This event was about a 2 miles from my house so I decided to register the Jeep for the show. I was the only Jeep but out of all the fancy Corvettes, Camaros and other VERY nice cars, a lot of people checked out the Jeep and commented on it. The Jeep ended up placing in the top whatever and I received an award. Not bad for my first car show! Anyways, it was all about the kids and it was for a great cause. It's neat to see the kids see their hotwheels in person lol

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Congratulations Josh!

Your CJ-7 looks awesome…that’s a nice paint job you put on it.

That green Jeep debuted at the 2018 SEMA show, representing Toyo Tires. I believe it is safe to say it was professionally built to be a show car, so yes, I’m sure it is impressive to look at, however; your CJ-7 is just as impressive in my opinion, because I know you did all of the work yourself.

Concerning your engine leak. My 258 valve cover leaked at the back of my engine one time, after I replaced the valve cover gasket. At first, the new gasket solved the leak problem, But soon started leaking again, the rear stud broke after I installed the new gasket. The leak looked like it could be coming from the rear main seal, but it was the valve cover. When I found the broken stud, I replaced the gasket a second time, and the leak problem was solved.


Concerning your head gasket, and re-torquing it. I don’t know if you know this, so I will put it out there for you. When you re-torque a head, you have to loosed the bolt or nut, and then tighten it again. If you only put your torque wrench on it, in the tightening direction, and tighten it until it clicks…well this is not the way to do it.

Again, congrats on the car show recognition.

You should put a picture of your Jeep in the “Winning Thread”.

What you have accomplished, is a real Win!
 

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Discussion Starter · #330 ·
Concerning your engine leak. My 258 valve cover leaked at the back of my engine one time, after I replaced the valve cover gasket. At first, the new gasket solved the leak problem, But soon started leaking again, the rear stud broke after I installed the new gasket. The leak looked like it could be coming from the rear main seal, but it was the valve cover. When I found the broken stud, I replaced the gasket a second time, and the leak problem was solved.
Ax,
I'm positive that the oil leak isn't coming from the valve cover. It was at one time, but I replaced the cork gasket with a new one. The backside of the valve over, head and upper part of the short block are all dry. I'm afraid this could be one of 3 things. Rear main seal, threaded oil galley plug, or the cam plug that looks like a freeze plug. I have oil on the transmission bell housing cover plate and inspection plate but no where else.

Its not a serious leak, but it's enough to blow underneath the jeep and create a mess. My plan is to pull it apart in the winter and investigate. I have found my skid plate has a slight bend in it from being hit by a rock or something. The transfer case pan rubs it slightly and I don't like that, a press should straighten it out.

I also thought about you and thought maybe I could make a pass or two down the drag strip at Edgewater but I found out you had to have doors in order to make the pass.
 

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I have never heard of that rule about doors, but I guess the drag strip can make any rule they want. I could understand them wanting arm restraints, in an open body vehicle, but then if you have doors, it would eliminate the need for arm restraints. Most rules make sense, but not all of them.

A functional neutral safety switch is in the NHRA rule book, and the tech inspector busted me for it the last time I ran my CJ-7, because mine doesn’t work. I can put it any gear and it will start. I’m pretty sure it’s for cars with automatic transmissions only. He let me slide for the day, but he told me to fix it before I bring it back.
 

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A mess?

Your just keeping the underside lubed so it doesn't rust.

We could all be so fortunate to have this value added lube feature, to help prolong the age of our rigs :)

Its not a serious leak, but it's enough to blow underneath the jeep and create a mess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #333 ·
Hey everyone! I know, I've been quiet over the summer... but I'm putting some miles on the Jeep!

But now I have some questions regarding ignition. It seems like when there is some load on the Jeep such has climbing a hill I get a pinging like sound out of the engine. at idle everything is great, just under higher stress at like 40-55 MPH.

My thoughts go to the ignition system. I have noticed that my dipstick is now magnetic. I found this out by checking the oil and it snapping to the side of the tube. Could I have a bad coil creating a ground?

Also, do duraspark 2 ignition systems need a ballast resistor? I have a new, oem, AMC (motorcraft) ignition module with a ballast resistor hooked up per Painless wirings instructions. but they also say some duraspark 2 ignitions do not require one. Anyone have any experience with this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #335 ·
So here's what I have found out. The coil is only receiving 5.5 volts with the ignition on or while running at idle.. no real improvement when you bring up the RPMs. So my voltage over the ballast resistor is 7.4ish. I believe the coil needs 12v and I think my coil is internally resisted. Hence why it is only outputting 5.5 volts when the resistor is only in the 7v range.

To you point Jim, I most likely have a timing issue due to a weak spark. It all makes more sense now that I have dug into this... When I set initial timing back in the early spring, I would follow the timing threads on here and never saw improvement adjusting the timing to 10*-12*. But me being so unfamiliar with old cars I didn't know the difference. I have also heard projected tip spark plugs can cause issues as well but I think that is a racing thing.

So, moving forward this weekend:
I am going to go painless wiring instructions and use the non ballast resistor hook up - yes that was included in the instructions, I didn't know what I needed back then.

I assume I can just complete the circuit by bypassing the resistor as everything works as intended currently with no issues (other than poor spark... lol) maybe I should put a new set of plugs in it while I'm at it.

Let me know what you all think on this lol Am I on the right track?
 

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There isn't any Ballast Resister on 1985 Jeep ignition system.
The 10 gauge red wire w/tracer from the Ignition Switch goes to a 20 gauge resistance red wire w/tracer, of 1.35 Ohms resistance, and then connects to a 18 gauge red wire w/tracer to the positive (+) side of the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #337 ·
@keith460, so I should have the resistance wire connected to the coil from the switch. I may still have that in the old harness. Does the ignition switched 12v also go to the ignition module? Originally I thought the ballast resistor was solving the issue of melting ignition modules. If the ignition module can take a 12v without melting I have an easy fix.

Why would I need a resistance wire to the coil? were the coils not internally resisted in 1985? or is it for protection of the coil?

Right now I have a switched source going to ballast resistor connected to the module I believe, then the coil wire is on the other side of the resistor.

I appreciate the feed back on this. I may dig more into this tomorrow, too many side projects going on lol
 

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Don't do plugs or anything else, until you get the weak spark issue fixed.

One issue at a time :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #340 ·
Okay guys here's where I'm at.

I checked the resistance of the coil across the positive and negative post, that is 1.7 ohms
The resistance across the ballast resistor is 1.2 ohms. This was all done with the Jeep turned off

I made a jumper wire to delete the ballast resistor and when the Jeep was running, I was getting 13.8 volts at the coil. I noticed the coil got warm really fast so I turned it off and hooked everything back up the way it was before. I turned it on again and at idle the coil was at about 6 volts.

Reading Keiths post above he talked about a resistance wire in the old harness. I dug that out and found exactly what he described, measured the resistance and I produced 1.8 ohms.

With all the information about about the ballast resistor being 1.2 ohms, I should be in a proper resistance range correct? Could I have a bad coil or the wrong module? Or hell, everything might just be fine and I'm chasing another problem. Does anyone have any proof that the coil should be producing 12v at all times? I know that sounds silly to ask but it's worth asking at this point.
 
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