Sure sounds like a grounding issue, especially with them not mounted. Its been a few years, but I thought for sure they grounded through the housing/mounting screw?
I guess I'll have to mount them tonight when I get home. I figured with all the grounds painless instructed me to put, I wouldn't have this issue but if the light needs another ground though the housing, I didn't let it have it. While I'm at it, I should probably run a grounding strap from the tub to the frame. Do you know of some factory ground strap locations for the tub?Sure sounds like a grounding issue, especially with them not mounted. Its been a few years, but I thought for sure they grounded through the housing/mounting screw?
I have a few questions regarding the fuel return and air cleaner/ vacuum lines.
Let me start off with the basics of what I know. The engine is original to the Jeep (1985), rebuilt and has been nuttered by replacing the carb with a carter style reproduction carb. Currently everything runs and sounds great. See previous post for start up video.
Does anyone have a detailed picture of the fuel return line/ hoses? I have this "S" shaped metal line that I can not figure out where it goes. My return line seems to connect under the tub as if it is shorter than factory but fuel hose should make up the difference.
I kept the one for the manifold stove for use up here in northern Ohio and removed the one that blocked off the air to the carb that kept the gas fumes enclosed.Because I have a brake booster, I have the offset air cleaner. Is it important to hook up the vacuum operated doors for the exhaust manifold/ air intake? All I have done is ran the Jeep in the garage and here in Ohio, it is now starting to dip in to the 30s but it doesn't start rough. I haven't fine tuned the carb so any rough running's is because of the lack of tuning but once it is warm, is runs very well.
If I don't need those vacuum operated doors, I'm thinking about taking those doors off and doing some welding magic to make it look less bulky.
you may have the wrong radiator cap. There is one to allow expanding fluid to go to the collection bottle and draw it back in whe it coold down and one that only opens up to elieve too much pressure but doesn't let any fluid out at other times.Lastly, I have a standard cooling radiator with a 16 lb cap. I feel like I am gaining more pressure in the cooling system than I should. The hoses seem stiff and I have not seen any coolant go into the coolant overflow. Is this normal? I'm used to more modern cooling systems that don't have much pressure behind it to operate and I want to make sure there isn't a air bubble.
Its interesting that the return line is that close to the exhaust manifold. I figured that may be to much heat. I cant find my original rusty line but I bought the classic tube version, which is the middle line in the picture. If this line doesn't really look like the OEM one, I may just end up making my own.I'll see if I can get a better picture but mine connects to a steel pipe (Yellow circle) that snakes up through the intake manifold and goes down to arounf the engine mount. From there is connects to a steel line that goes back to the gas tank.