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Congrats of getting engaged!

As far as painting the wheel wells in the tub and fenders goes, I believe you should plan on painting them with the body color while you paint everything. Use the same primer and topcoat like the rest. This way you have a good layer of the proper color paint everywhere to protect the sheet metal from rusting. You can always add a sound deadening coating later, if you choose to go that route.

I have sprayed quality rubberized undercoating in the wheel wells of most every vehicle I have owned over the years, except for the newer vehicles that have a black plastic liners in the wheel wells. I do this for rust prevention and sound deadening, and I like semi gloss black paint on everything that is not body colored. For instance, if I replace shocks on a car I own, I will paint them semi gloss black, if they aren’t already, before I install them. The flat black color of the rubberized undercoating works well with my dislike of any colors under the vehicle. No red, yellow, or white paint anywhere on the undercarriage on my cars…that’s just the way I like it. I probably sprayed rubberized undercoating in the wheel wells on my 1986 CJ-7 when it was new, but I can’t remember for sure. I was spending a lot of time on logging roads in and around Port Angeles back then, so it would make sense to undercoat the wheel wells to help protect them from rock chips, and sound deadening. You can paint rubberized undercoating with the same top coat if you like. A lot of new cars come with undercoating under the top coat, down low on the rockers and such.

There are many spray on or roll on bed liner materials that could be applied to do the same thing that rubberized undercoating will do, so you have many choices.

When I paint my tub & the rest of the sheet metal parts, I will use the same method and products on everything, so it will all be Sebring Red when finished and assembled. I will probably apply rubberized undercoating in all four wheel wells to protect the paint from chipping when a rock gets thrown, and for sound deadening as well. I’m pretty sure it will be a hard decision to cover up the new red paint, but I plan on driving and wheeling my Jeep after the repaint, so sound deadening will just make sense to me. If I were planning on a weekend only, never drive in the rain, show car type of Jeep, I would not apply the rubberized undercoating, but that is not the case for my 1985 CJ-7.

I’m going to post a picture of my 1986 CJ-7 sitting on the wash rack at AIRSTA Port Angeles in 1987. It’s an old picture and I’m not sure if you would be able to see red paint in the wheel wells or not, but to me it looks like they are black, and that is the look I like on a Jeep that will be driven and wheeled on a regular basis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
So with the input of some of you guys, I'm just going to paint the bottom with color. I literally want all the practice I can get spraying a metallic paint. I may paint the wheel wells black eventually but for now I feel fine with a blue wheel well.

Last night I continued scuffing the bottom of the tub per 3M's paintable undercoating instructions. I can see where there are some spots I cant even get my hand into but paint and undercoating could.

Is a few non-scuffed areas on the bottom of the tub going to make or break the paint job?

I understand it's the bottom but I'd hate for something to chip and cause a chain reaction. I also understand that over time the factory paint chipped on the bottom just like it's doing on my truck. Am I just thinking too much and in reality it will be fine? There is primer and undercoating on it so the actual metal is protected.

Picture is to show all the crevices and tight areas that are hard to scuff.
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When scuffing areas like your picture, I like to use a scotch-brite pad (green pad). You can get creative by stapling a piece to a wood paint paddle or something similar, to scuff where your fingers won’t fit. Just do the best you can, and then go with it.

When painting something like the underside of the tub, I like to concentrate on getting paint into “hard to reach” areas, and/or crevices on the first coat, or two. Don’t worry about the flat easy to get at areas, you can coat them later, more towards the end when applying the finals coat(s).

Think about this, maybe it will get the point I am trying to make. Have you ever spray painted a bicycle frame? It is one of the hardest things to spray paint in my opinion, because there are so many nooks & cranny’s to try and get the color on. A rookie will just start painting the easy to get to parts on the first coat, and the second coat even. At this point there are areas that are “hard to get at” that don’t have any paint. If you start shooting paint into these “hard to get to” areas, you may lay it on too heavy and risk hanging curtains (runs). Start spraying the paint into the “hard to get to” areas, first. I hope this makes sense.
 
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Discussion Starter · #209 ·
Prepping all of the parts for the 2k urethane primer is what have been on the list of things to do this week. A decent cold front came though with rainy weather so no painting has been done. I've been looking into paint prices and wow, the paint prices are miles apart from each other. I can go on the less expensive route and spend 250-400 dollars per gallon or I can get the more expensive stuff for 1100 dollars per gallon... Yeah, I know what you guys are gonna say LOL I'm going to do some serious research on the different brands just to humor me on why it can be as high as $1100.

Nice weather will be here for the weekend so small parts will be primed and I think I am going to do a fit up of various parts. My doors seem to have a seam sealer/ panel bond material where the door hinges can adjust inside the door. The hinges have little movement and I have chipped away some of that sealer/ panel bond material to free them up more. Has anyone run into this issue with the adjustable side of the door hinges? Is there a chemical that can soften up or dissolve seam sealer like stuff?

Anyways, here's a few pictures of the the interior... WITH A SEAT...!
 

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Gotta ask, as it has been a thought for some time.....
Metal tub, with all the options to paints, spray on liner, coating options to the moon and back....we powder coat rims, shift levers, bumpers.....how about powder coating the metal tub? Or is this just not possible or not feasible for long term protection?
Inquiring mind wants to know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
Gotta ask, as it has been a thought for some time.....
Metal tub, with all the options to paints, spray on liner, coating options to the moon and back....we powder coat rims, shift levers, bumpers.....how about powder coating the metal tub? Or is this just not possible or not feasible for long term protection?
Inquiring mind wants to know!
That's a great question! The guy I have taken parts to be powder coated to actually has done a few cars. I'm not sure how they turned out but here is my thoughts.. Powder coating needs metal so it can be grounded so that the positively charged powder will stick (or the other way around). If you have filler work or seam sealers and such on there, that may interrupt the powder and not cover properly. if you didnt have sealers or filler work, I don't see why you couldn't do that!

I'm not sure how powder coating will look after a cut and buff, if that's possible. But I know what you mean on your mind wants to know. Essentially cars today are powder coated at the factory. for example, they charge the paint particles and ground the bodies so that they get a even coverage, but the paint isn't actually powder.
 

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Hey Josh on the cost of paint. I paid under $50.00 gallon for the O.D.green on my Jeep. Just a simple enamel. It could be clear coated, which I didn't do. Even the farm store implement paint will look decent and hold if you do your part in prep and applying it.
 

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I would think that the inability to touch up powder coat with additional powder coat for most people would be a nonstartar.

Hoss
Yeah, you don't want to powder coat an entire vehicle body. Parts and accessories yes, but not the body.

Just repairing or adding powder over existing powder is a chore. That's where "hot coating" comes into play. I've done my fair share of that process a few times and get mixed results. Just redoing my valve cover was an ordeal that I don't want to do again but it came out better than I expected.

Stick with paint for large scale surfaces that need to look good and can be repaired easier. Powder coat can be applied and look good but the plastic covering fades in sunlight if not cared for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
So as Im getting all my painted parts accounted for, I ran into these. I so the tub I got matched the year of my jeep (1985) and I can't find these floor plugs for the rear in the "CJ" sections on any of the major websites. I can find them on the YJ pages. Are they CJ original and could they be the same part then? Also, How many of these were on the CJs? I have 6. The ones pictured below should have a seal around them as well

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
Underside painted!

Well folks, we (my dad and I) officially have paint on the Jeep!

Over the weekend the underside, inside of the hood, and the interior of the tailgate all got base coat and clear. I'm glad I went with the original color, 4C Ice Blue. It looks amazing in the sun and has a cool color shift when goes into the shade or under shop lights.

So, I had to make a tough decision on paint... I went to my local refinish place to get PPG paint and sadly, "supply shortages" made it difficult for them to mix my color. The counter person said up to 2 weeks before they could get the proper colors to mix my paint (sign of the times I guess). I can't wait that long due to the weather being so nice so I went with the more expensive Glasurit family of paint and clear. I'm not mad that I had to spend more. If anything, I'm glad I made that choice because of the way it sprayed and laid out.

Pictures are below to give you a sneak peek of more to come... Stay tuned!
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Light Hood Automotive design Wood Automotive exterior
 
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