And I was upset because red paint is so expensive.I just got my '55 two-door post out of paint after 3 years (looooong story), and about $15K.
I couldn't find a single paint/ body guy to quote it under $20K. Thats where they ALL said they START at (and go up from there...)
The materials were about $3K total, and it amazes me when I see people post that they got there car/jeep painted for <$5K and complain!
Don't get me wrong, it still seems ridiculous to pay a half a years salary (for a lot of people) for a paint job, but that's what they charge for them. It's crazy.
Ooohhhh. I need one of those.Keith, I should have mentioned in the post above that the 3D printed material is flexible! I don't know what I was thinking when I typed it out lol My work has this flexible resin that is just a little stiffer than the OEM boot. I think it needs a little refinement but it's a really close match. I can get real creative if I need too and print a bushing.
Really all I need to do is get the bushing and a piece of metal to give the boot some strength to get bolted on but that's easy.
Sorry for that confusion with the 3D material... Most printers are hard plastics so I can understand a lot of folks scratching their heads :laugh:
I have a few questions regarding the fuel return and air cleaner/ vacuum lines.
Let me start off with the basics of what I know. The engine is original to the Jeep (1985), rebuilt and has been nuttered by replacing the carb with a carter style reproduction carb. Currently everything runs and sounds great. See previous post for start up video.
Does anyone have a detailed picture of the fuel return line/ hoses? I have this "S" shaped metal line that I can not figure out where it goes. My return line seems to connect under the tub as if it is shorter than factory but fuel hose should make up the difference.
I kept the one for the manifold stove for use up here in northern Ohio and removed the one that blocked off the air to the carb that kept the gas fumes enclosed.Because I have a brake booster, I have the offset air cleaner. Is it important to hook up the vacuum operated doors for the exhaust manifold/ air intake? All I have done is ran the Jeep in the garage and here in Ohio, it is now starting to dip in to the 30s but it doesn't start rough. I haven't fine tuned the carb so any rough running's is because of the lack of tuning but once it is warm, is runs very well.
If I don't need those vacuum operated doors, I'm thinking about taking those doors off and doing some welding magic to make it look less bulky.
you may have the wrong radiator cap. There is one to allow expanding fluid to go to the collection bottle and draw it back in whe it coold down and one that only opens up to elieve too much pressure but doesn't let any fluid out at other times.Lastly, I have a standard cooling radiator with a 16 lb cap. I feel like I am gaining more pressure in the cooling system than I should. The hoses seem stiff and I have not seen any coolant go into the coolant overflow. Is this normal? I'm used to more modern cooling systems that don't have much pressure behind it to operate and I want to make sure there isn't a air bubble.
I would try soldering it also.Figured out the issue I had with my fuel gauge. It looks like the contact for the for the power side failed and broke away from the rest of the unit, leaving the gauge dead. In the picture, you can see my test lead holding the power lead away from the post.
I'm not sure what material this is and if solder can fix it. Any input from you guys would be helpful. I might have a small circuits person look at it because I have limited tools for electronics. It sucks that this NOS gauge is broken but the good news is I swapped another working fuel gauge in for now. Everything works good for now so I can cross that off the list!
Now I'm really confused.......
By the way, I will admit, I was reading the voltage on the coil wrong... The coil is getting 12v like it should. I was taking voltage from the positive terminal to the negative terminal on the coil... not the positive terminal of the coil to the negative battery post. whoops lol
No, the case for the ICM is insulated from the circuit. There are some recommendations as to grounding the black wire from the 4 pin plug to ground at the case.@John Strenk is there a chance that the ICM grounds to the fender as well? I did some quick continuity tests and the ground wire from the ICM was weak on the tone. I am going to check voltages this weekend so I can spend time and open up the loom to see where things are going.
Thanks for the information in checking the ICM. If I have a poor ground, can I create a dedicated ground near the ICM?
I think I could solve this issue with by putting in an HEI... but Id like to figure this out