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Thanks Sean.
Yeah, I like those one step soldered thingies too.

Have you tried heating then with a small flame at all please?

Or have you come across a neat little heat gun perhaps?
I have used a lighter, but it is super easy to scorch.

I wired up an attenuator in for my factory amp to install an aftermarket radio in my WJ. I used a hot air station like this one (using its smallest tip)
CREWORKS 858D Rework Station, 110V SMD Soldering Rework Station with Hot Air Heat Gun Set, LED Digital Temperature Display Screen Electric Desoldering Welding Iron Kit for Electronics Repairing - - Amazon.com

Under the hood, I had to flip my ignition coil connector so it would work with an aftermarket coil that had the pinout flipped. I used a hot air gun like this one because I couldn't hardly reach the location:
Heat Gun Kit 2000W with Dual-Temperature 5 Nozzles,Hot Air Gun 122ᵒF-1022ᵒF Heating in Seconds for DIY Shrink PVC Tubing/Wrapping/Crafts,Stripping Paint (2000W 2 Gears Temp Setting) - - Amazon.com
 

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Thanks Curly.

Soldering on a bench with good light, and those lovely tools for holding the wire in place is one thing.
Lying on your back soldering joints under a car by the light of a lamp is another thing.
I agree Delta. Under a car on your back with a lamp would be a challenging situation. I used the "Helping Hands", taped to a block of wood, and I added that little magnetic section to help hold it steady. One would have to study the situation and come up with a "McGyver" technique. Where there is a will there is a way. To solder the "Lash Splice" you would have to hold it steady somehow. Just applying the small copper Lash around the 1/4" tinned wires was a challenge. Like anything else you learn as you go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
It's easier to solder and shrink in a constrained area than it is to use connectors (if you know what you are doing What's to know please Cr?)

I have a fancy Hakko solder station Nice piece of kit (y) (you can get a decent adjustable soldering iron for under $40), but the secret is some additional rosin flux on the wires (because the lead free solder doesn't flow nearly as well as the old stuff, and I don't know why mainly to do with surface tension).
Where did you learn to solder please Cr?

Some soldering tips: -


 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
I have used a lighter, but it is super easy to scorch.
Scorch what please Sean?

I wired up an attenuator in for my factory amp to install an aftermarket radio in my WJ. I used a hot air station like this one (using its smallest tip)
CREWORKS 858D Rework Station, 110V SMD Soldering Rework Station with Hot Air Heat Gun Set, LED Digital Temperature Display Screen Electric Desoldering Welding Iron Kit for Electronics Repairing - - Amazon.com (y) Thanks, it looks a handy bit of kit for those solder & shrink-fit in 1 go connectors.

Under the hood, I had to flip my ignition coil connector so it would work with an aftermarket coil that had the pinout flipped. I used a hot air gun like this one because I couldn't hardly reach the location:
Heat Gun Kit 2000W with Dual-Temperature 5 Nozzles,Hot Air Gun 122ᵒF-1022ᵒF Heating in Seconds for DIY Shrink PVC Tubing/Wrapping/Crafts,Stripping Paint (2000W 2 Gears Temp Setting) - - Amazon.com Nice
 

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2002 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee
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Has anyone tried one of these gas heat guns please?

I had one of those, they work great. Wish I knew where it was. They get really hot, do not touch it, and do not lay it down on your carpet like I did.
 

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lol
when it's easy
I did some military and space soldering. They don't send anything into space crimped.
I was an Air Force wrench on F-16's. You will NOT find a soldered joint on any military or commercial aircraft. Corrosion issue. That was second thing I was taught. Don't pull the ejection seat handle in the hanger was the first thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I was an Air Force wrench on F-16's. You will NOT find a soldered joint on any military or commercial aircraft. Corrosion issue. That was second thing I was taught. Don't pull the ejection seat handle in the hanger was the first thing.
Funny that cD, I learnt, no unsupported soldered joints on aircraft because the wire fails mechanically at the interface between wire tempered by the heat from the soldering, and the untempered wire.

Same principle, different points of view eh?.

No ejector seats on the aircraft I was associated with.
 

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Yes, you are correct. The point between the solder joint and wire becomes a hinge point. And as we know, aircraft flex quite a bit in flight. If everyone knew how much many would probably not even get on an airplane, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Yes, you are correct. The point between the solder joint and wire becomes a hinge point. And as we know, aircraft flex quite a bit in flight. If everyone knew how much many would probably not even get on an airplane, lol.
Thanks cD :)

Is the works joint between the battery cable and the battery clamp a compression / crimped joint on US built cars would you know please?

Also, would you know why there's a 1/2" or so gap between insulation and clamp on US built cars please?

My last WJ, which was built by Styr, had a compression joint between lead clamp and lead,
While the insulation ended very close to the lead / clamp.

The leads and clamps on my current WJ are the same.

Neither car showed / shows any sign of corrosion / wear & tear.
 
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