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What was I thinking?
2008 JKU
6,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
to the

Standard acronyms used on the forum:

BB - Budget Boost (Spacer Lift)
BL - Body Lift
CV Joint - Constant Velocity Joint
LA - Long Control Arm
LCA - Lower Control Arm
MA - Mid length Control arm
MML - Motor Mount Lift
RTI - Ramp Travel Index
SA - Short or Standard Control Arm
SYE - Slip Yoke Eliminator
UCA - Upper Control Arm

I4 - Inline engine, 4 cylinder, 2.5L
I6 - Inline engine, 6 cylinder, 4.2L or 4.0L
V6 - Engine used in (JK - 3.8 liter) and (Liberty - 3.7 liter)
V8 or (hemi) - Engine used in Grand Cherokees

FAQ: Will it rub? By (NaeKid)

The JK with stock wheels, no wheel spacer, no lift

32" tires: no rubbing
33" tires: minimal rubbing unless extended bumpstops used
35" tires: don't try unless extended bumpstops used

The JK with stock wheels, 1 1/4" wheel spacer, no lift

32" tires: no rubbing
33" tires: some rubbing on full turn which can be controlled by extended bumpstops
35" tires: don't try unless extended bumpstops used

The JK with stock wheels, 1 1/2" wheel spacer, no lift, Bushwhacker flat-top flares

32" tires: no rubbing
33" tires: no rubbing
35" tires: rubbing that can be cured with trimming pinch-seam
37" tires: don't try

The JK with stock wheels, 1 1/4" wheel spacer, 2" lift

33" tires: no rubbing
35" tires: some rubbing
37" tires: don't try

The JK with stock wheels, no wheel spacer, 2 1/2" lift

33" tires: no rubbing
34" tires: some rubbing on street, sway bars connected
35" tires: significant rubbing
37" tires: don't try

The JK with stock wheels, 1 1/4" wheel spacer, 4" lift

33" tires: no rubbing
35" tires: no rubbing
37" tires: some rubbing - trim flares and pinch-seam
38" tires: be careful
39" tires: don't try

What the above chart shows is that there are many different combinations that will allow for different tire sizes. By changing the stock rims out for aftermarket rims you can run all kinds of different tires. By trimming fender-flares, adding bumpstop-extensions, changing to long-arms, adding body-lifts, etc, you will be able to fit virtually any tire that you want to fit on your JK. It has been reported that a 3 1/2" lift with minor trimming of the body / flares allows fitment of 37" tires on non-stock rims with very minimal rubbing on extreme articulation, perfectly fine for street or light-trail use.

If you install a wider tire and don't compensate with either a different wheel or a wheel spacer to push the tire away then your tire could end up rubbing some of the suspension components.

The other type of rubbing occurs when your Jeep flexes its suspension without a lift and it typically rubs the fenders, bumper or body.
We need something on the sticky along the lines of what he just said. It should also say: If it rubs the suspension a little, you'll need wheel spacers and if touches the fenders a little you'll need extra bump-stop or flat fenders.
Done :thumbsup:

What kinds of wheels can I run on my JK?

Of course, any stock wheel that comes with the JK will be able to be used. If you are looking through the junk-yard and you find some rims that you really like, make sure that they are a 5-bolt pattern on 5" diameter. Chevy 1/2-ton pick-up trucks in the 2wd variety use this bolt-pattern. YJ and TJ rims are 5-bolt on 4 1/2" diameter, not directly compatable with JK axles. Using wheel adapters (like made by SpiderTrax) will allow you to put 15" or 16" YJ or TJ rims onto your JK.

You will be able to fit some 15" rims and all 16" and bigger rims on your Jeep. The only problem that you might run into is the brake-caliper rubbing on the inside of the 15" rim, depending on off-set. If you find the rims you choose rub - a set of wheel-spacers can be installed to move the rim further from the caliper.

Check the tire-manufacturer's recommended rim-width prior to running the tires on the rims that you choose yourself.

Note: This chart will be updated as people report back on different lift / wheel / spacer combinations. If you try a combination that works that isn't listed here yet, please send a PM with the details of the lift and we will update as soon as possible


What was I thinking?
2008 JKU
6,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Link's To The Original JK-F.A.Q.​

Something popped, now my steering is loose to the left.

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C1240 - Steering Angle Sensor Overtravel Performance
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Cause and effect here >

How to; Install A Remote Start in My JK Wrangler.


What was I thinking?
2008 JKU
6,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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What was I thinking?
2008 JKU
6,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·

What was I thinking?
2008 JKU
6,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
JK Wrangler Fastener Torque Specifications

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606 Posts
Why Should I Buy A Rubicon (or not)

edit; This post came from this thread>To Rubicon or Not?

I would definitely go Rubicon. Auto or manual? If auto, then the Rubicon if for no other reason than the 4.10's.

For sand the 4:1 transfer case is not needed but it is no disadvantage either. Bogging in soft sand and needing to downshift can lead to being stuck, the 4:1 transfer case will keep the revs up, but so can selecting and staying in a lower gear with the 2.72:1 case. The front D44 isn't needed, but again it isn't a disadvantage either. The lockers can definitely save the day in loose sand, especially with good aggressive tires. The Rubicon tires are actually quite good in the sand despite common "wisdom" that aggressive tires don't do well in the sand.

For mud, the lockers will save your hide and become a favorite feature. The D44 becomes more requirement since spinning in the slop and then catching is what often breaks axles. It isn't fool proof, but it is substantially stronger than a D30. Bogging down and needing to downshift is a leading cause of becoming stuck in the mud, the 4:1 case is by far the better choice for mud. The 3.8 like the revs and the 4:1 will deliver while providing plenty of wheel spin to keep the treads clear. The Rubicon tires are mudders, and good ones until you decide you want bigger.

The only Rubicon feature you won't use and rely on for the off roading you describe is the e-disco.

Now if you plan to (soon) moddify your Jeep to the point that you're swapping in D60 axles and dropping in an Atlas X-case and air lockers front and rear... no reason for the Rubicon.

As far as paying intrest on stock Rubicon features that would be mods on an X, Sport, Sahara, when you find yourself with a pocket full of money that you would have spent on, say, a front locker or gears, make an extra pmt. Your interest accrual will drop since the extra pmt will drop your principle amount... Then you aren't paying interest on the "mods."

BTW, all of those X, Sport, Sahara mods like gears and lockers or D44 front axles that kill your warranty but come stock on the Rubicon are covered by the factory warranty.

And if you price out the mods and include the labor to instal them, you are WAY ahead with the Rubicon. (But if you can instal them yourself... Go X or Sport or Sahara...)

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