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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Gah, I wish I'd have been reading this thread a few days ago! I've got the FPM, and looked up and ordered all new hardware for my lift install - I could have given you the leaf eye bolt size! Sorry man!

Looking good! You're a braver man than I, taking on all that rust...
its all good, i shoulda known, everytime i try to replace a bolt on this thing i cant find it locally, although another member mentioned fastenal, and i just found one today so im stoked about that cause they are 10 minutes away.
 

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I got my bolts and shackle bushings off ebay... coudlnt find them at any autoparts store... crazy! i had some regular grade 8s in it so i could move it in the drive way though
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
okay so i know i have been really idle in terms of doing anything to the jeep but im back from vacation, and with more money than i thought i was going to come home with so its time for some much needed love on the cherokee....

im ordering up the c rok steering box brace first so that i can get my front winch bumper on...

as well as im also going to order up some longer brake lines cause my lift is pushing the limits of my current lines lol

just curious as to what length to go with for the brake lines, im guessing with 4 inches of lift i should go with 4 inches over stock, that would mean i need an 18 inch rear brake line correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
okay so i have been making some progress on the jeep and ill have to get some more pictures loaded up but for today im off to harrys u pull it in hazleton cause i popped the rear u joint on my driveshaft pulling into the driveway yesterday lol. gonna get a zj front shaft and an xj front. That was ill have like a 28 inch shaft and a 32 inch shaft. Then a h and t in the upcoming weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
wow thats a lot of rust.. you are brave
its not all rust, a lot of stuff have been sanded or cut out and then heavily painted with rustoleum primer for rusty metal, but yea everything up this way is pretty rust ridden, its just the way it goes.
 

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I know I'm almost a month late, but...

On your brake lines, you'll want to keep in mind that even though you've "only" lifted 4", the amount of flex has gone up by more than that. I lifted my XJ 3.5", and I think the brake lines I put in are 22" long...? They're at least 20".
 

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Nice work so far - big job...
So how are you going to fill the rust holes - weld new metal, cut out a piece from a junk yard jeep, fiberglass ... ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Nice work so far - big job...
So how are you going to fill the rust holes - weld new metal, cut out a piece from a junk yard jeep, fiberglass ... ?
just gonna even the hole out and then weld in some new metal, rockers are gonna go and get replaced with some rectangular steel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I know I'm almost a month late, but...

On your brake lines, you'll want to keep in mind that even though you've "only" lifted 4", the amount of flex has gone up by more than that. I lifted my XJ 3.5", and I think the brake lines I put in are 22" long...? They're at least 20".
i went 3 inches over stock, and they are long, i almost thought they were too long when i put em on
 

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This is my rust-hole, under the back seat and back floor.
Need to find a piece of steel (I tried to get a free stainless sink from craigslist, but someone else got it 1st).
I'm wondering if I should cut the upright piece of metal from the hump to the wheel-well (blue line), to fit in just 1 piece on the floor ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
i cant really picture in my head where that is in the vehicle can you take a better picture?

also i would try to avoid cutting and seams or welds, unless ofcourse you were going to re weld that area
 

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for that kind of hole i would go the JY and bring a grinder or something to cut metal, and cut out that spot from another jeep, and then cut yours out and weld in the newer stuff, the only way to stop rust from spreading is to cut out all the affected area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
for that kind of hole i would go the JY and bring a grinder or something to cut metal, and cut out that spot from another jeep, and then cut yours out and weld in the newer stuff, the only way to stop rust from spreading is to cut out all the affected area.
agreed, you can only cover it for so long. Anything that has already created a hole, needs to be cut out fully, thats what im currently in the process of doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
so it rained all day today, and that kinda threw a wrench in my plans to finish the brake lines today...so i had to push the truck back into the street and chock the tires since I blew up the u joint on the driveshaft coming into the driveway lol. i guess thats what happens when your missing a bolt in the strap lol. doesnt matter anyhow, ordering up some nut strips from jcr, h&t from iro, and some other stuff tomorrow. Also went to the u pull it in hazelton and snatched up a front driveshaft from an xj and a zj, the zj seems to be about 3 inches longer so im figuring thats gonna be my new rear shaft as i think the xj shaft will be a bit short since i have a manual. gonna get busy rebuilding both of them this week i hope....

also came upon a welder on CL for 100 bucks. its a century stick welder, looks to be in fantastic condition and its local. im pretty stoked as i think it retails for 350 or more.

next month the jeep should be going into the trans shop to swap for the ax15 i have in the shed and a clutch kit. then it should be ready to go as after that i should have addressed everything that needed to be taken care of.

future plans now stand for 33's as my 31's are going to my girl once her lift is on, regear to 4.10's or maybe 4.56 depending on whats recommended, 4 inch springs up front, 1 ton steering, and then once i feel the need iro long arms, but thats all next years plans, probably not till next summer....also if i find a deal on some axles, i may or may not swap out my current setup, but again next years plans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
When you go for the gears get 4.56's if you are going to run 33's
i originally was going to go that route, however i have been seeing that the combo of 4.10's, ax-15, and 33's seems poplular, whereas its more popular to have 4.56's with the auto
 

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i cant really picture in my head where that is in the vehicle can you take a better picture?

also i would try to avoid cutting and seams or welds, unless ofcourse you were going to re weld that area
Rear passenger-side floor. The blue line is the upright brace thing I'm thinking about cutting (and re-welding) If I need to. the question was - would that be the best way to fix the floor, by cutting that piece off then cutting and replacing the floor, Or just cut 2 pieces for the floor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
i must say im not really sure, i would probably cut as much out as possible, then i would weld in a filler piece, and mold it accordingly with a ball pin hammer.
 
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