Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Is this all I need to replace the oil cooler and oil pressure sensor?

551 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Johnnythorn
I plan on ordering this part myself. The shop said I should change the oil cooler along with the sensor as it usually comes in an assembly.

Is this everything I need? Is the sensor attached to this?








Thanks,
Zach
See less See more
2
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Its upside down, so it may be a part for the southern hemisphere... :)

If it comes as pictured, it has all the sensors. I would assume it comes with new O rings. Service manual says O rings should be installed dry.
If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a few years, I would recommend you go for the Dorman replacement.


You can get them cheaper online, but you do need to be careful when ordering because they offer two versions. the cheaper one is for PUG V6's post-2014 or later where you can reuse the original cooler assembly, if you have the pre-PUG engine you need the more expensive full kit that includes the oil cooler and the updated filter housing.

I have installed a few of these and never had an issue. Jeep should do a deal with Dorman and fit these as standard. The same issue affects any Pentastar-equipped vehicle including Wranglers, 300C, Challenger, Chargers, and all their Voyager and Town and County Mum Buses. Unlikely to happen as the Pentastar is being phased out in favor of low-capacity turbo engines that don't last long but as long as they last long enough to get beyond the warranty Stellantis, former FCA are good.

The question is do you have an oil leak related to the oil cooler? this is an expensive fix for a just-in-case scenario. Yes, the OEM filter housings are fragile and the problem gets worse as they age and the plastic gets more brittle with temperature cycles but as long as you are careful when swapping the oil filter, they should be good for the lifespan of the vehicle. you just need to gently ease the oil filer cover off and not try and crack it off with a big breaker bar.
See less See more
I have just searched online and there appear to be knock offs of the Dorman part for $70


I am not sure I would trust them but it is an option
I've seen it go both ways, dorman works for some, for other it leaks over time as well and eventually fail. I still have stock oil filter housing with no issues and I do 4-5 oil changes a year lol. Torque it to the correct specs and 10/10 times you'll be fine, the rest is just up to the plastic not degrading overtime due to the heat. Closing in on 105k miles on my stock one btw.

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
its not the area of the filter they tend to crack, unless someone cross threaded the cap. The dorman ones that failed it was not the unit but the O rings.........The dorman O rings , use a better quality. Many of these stock ones it is O ring that failed as well.

3.6 has bigger issues then this, cooler is now maintenance item. But the Roller rockers issue is the 500 pound gorilla. That in reality is a death nail even if they repair it since. all those needle bearings in each roller that failed and the cam that ground flat will remain in it. Even the latest Pug rollers seem to still have issue. I think its a lack of oil getting to all 24 rollers myself.
It seems that the quality of roller rockers vary and may have gone down significantly. They have always been hard to make because of the precision required, lots of room for error. Roller rockers and lifters have always been troublesome long term, its not if they fail, its when. The stats and research point to manufacturing as the source of nearly all failures, not oil or lubrication. There are a couple exceptions of course, but the recent Jeep V6 or V8 are not one of them. For some reason GM seems to have lots of problems with vendor parts.

If you carefully observe over years, you will notice roller problem seem to come in waves, it seems much different from batch to batch and vendor to vendor in spite of identical specs.

Most of these parts are purchased from vendors, many made in china. I've read that some of the US performance cam companies are now building rollers in house. More costly to make but they have finer control over tolerances and build quality.
See less See more
If you plan on keeping the vehicle for a few years, I would recommend you go for the Dorman replacement.


You can get them cheaper online, but you do need to be careful when ordering because they offer two versions. the cheaper one is for PUG V6's post-2014 or later where you can reuse the original cooler assembly, if you have the pre-PUG engine you need the more expensive full kit that includes the oil cooler and the updated filter housing.

I have installed a few of these and never had an issue. Jeep should do a deal with Dorman and fit these as standard. The same issue affects any Pentastar-equipped vehicle including Wranglers, 300C, Challenger, Chargers, and all their Voyager and Town and County Mum Buses. Unlikely to happen as the Pentastar is being phased out in favor of low-capacity turbo engines that don't last long but as long as they last long enough to get beyond the warranty Stellantis, former FCA are good.

The question is do you have an oil leak related to the oil cooler? this is an expensive fix for a just-in-case scenario. Yes, the OEM filter housings are fragile and the problem gets worse as they age and the plastic gets more brittle with temperature cycles but as long as you are careful when swapping the oil filter, they should be good for the lifespan of the vehicle. you just need to gently ease the oil filer cover off and not try and crack it off with a big breaker bar.
I'm not sure if I have a leak from the actual cooler itself.. When I shine a flashlight down into the filter area from the little door on the engine cover, I can see what seems to be oil sitting there, but that could be left over oil from an oil change.
I would order the whole kit which includes the sensor, 12 plenum gaskets and the 4 or 5 seals that go between the cooler and the engine. And definitely while you’re in there replace the spark plugs: it’s the same procedure to removing the plenum to change the plugs so do it now while you’re already in there.
Also on mine, about a month after I did this job, I got a good lifter tick and had to replace the lifters so I had to do it all again anyway. I might suggest being preemptive and replace the lifters (at least the drivers side which seem to be prone to failure). Just my experience
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top