Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
1 - 20 of 840 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so tired of starting new threads when I am doing some thing with my jeep time to consolodate. So I will from now on be posting in this so SUBSCRIBE :popCorn:

Here are some of the links of my adventures so far:

Replacing 305 with 350
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/replacing-305-350-a-747494/

Gas tank swap
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/gas-tank-swap-854035/

Auto (700R4) to 5 speed (MG5) swap & TJ Brake booster upgrade
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/lt1-auto-5-speed-conversion-1430055/

Home brew power brake blead
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...r-mc-install-1481752/index2.html#post15008899

On to todays question. Im in the process for gathering parts on for an 8.8 swap. I ran across the teraflex upper adjustable rear shock mounts for $24.99 normally $126.99. Should I jump on it? Does anyone have it? Do you like it? Problems? I know I can build my own, but that seems pretty cheap.

EDIT: seems like these could cause issues with an anti wrap bar. I may have answered my own question

Double EDIT: Inserting to keep first page updated:

Local thread that I use to keep my build updated:
http://www.matanzasjeepclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2771

Rig: 1987 AMC Wrangler (Black)
Engine: IROC 5.7L Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: NV4500 MT8 5 speed (internal slave)
Transfercase: NP241C
Axles: 79 Ford HP60, 03 AAM 10.5
Wheels: 17x8.5 Raceline Monster RT232 beadlocks
Tires: 37x13.5x17 Toyo M/T
Lift: SOA HD 0" springs, 1/2" booms

Mods: Updated 6-22-17

Suspension/Steering:
Ruffstuff SOA spring perches
Bilstein 5125 14"/12" shocks
Energy Suspension poly sway bar bushings
NWF Hi-steer arms
Bronze Kingpinbushings
Solid Axle Industries knuckles
Wagoneer pitman arm
1 Ton hi-steer links
Crown HD 6 leaf springs
Ground & Pound ½" Boomerang Shackles
Prothane 1" Body lift
Astro van hydro boost

1.25 bore Master Cylinder
Derale 10" Aluminum
Power steering heat sink
Power steering filter



Drive Train:
Advance Adapters SBC engine mount
Home built above frame transmission cross member with poly bushings
Energy Suspension poly motor mounts
Ruffstuff diff covers F&R
Lube lockers F&R
35 Spline 4340 Chromo front shafts w/ Spicer life joints
Yukon Hardcore lockouthubs
Spartan Locker Dana 60
ARB Locker AAM 10.5
Solid pinion spacerAAM 10.5
5.13 Gears
Seals-it outer axleseals Dana 60
M14x1.5 front wheelstuds Dana 60
Flange Yoke F&R
Cutthroat 4x4 NP241 clocking ring
JB Super Short SYE w/ 1310 CV yoke
Adams CV driveshaft (clearanced CV)
Summit 8mm Wires
MSD street fire coil
Performance cam
Corvette 2.5" Rams horn manifolds
Home built 2.5" mandrel bent y-pipe and Exhaust
Highflow Catalytic converter
Magnaflow Stainless muffler
Home built cold air intake
K&N filter
Outerwears Prefilter
Performance Camshaft
Oil pump pick up retainer
Modified K1500 Transfer case shift linkage
Ruffstuff DIY traction bar
Home Built CV front Drive shaft
Home built Battery tray
DieHard Platinum AGM Group 65 Battery
140A CS144 Alternator
A/C compressor relocation brackets
Sanden 7 piston A/C compressor
Champion 3 Core aluminum Radiator w/ Stainless overflow
Ford Contour Dual Fan w/ FAL variable speed controller
4 Point battery bus bar
Hella accessory fuse block
Mechanical Fuel pressure gauge


Recovery/Armor/Exterior:
Family style roll bars
Skyjacker grab handles
Tow hooks
Warn 9.5XP w/ solenoid box relocation (In cab winch controls)
Home built winch cover
Factor 55 1.5 hawse fairlead
Am-steel synthetic rope
Pro-Link loaded thimble
Pro-comp front bumper w/ shackle mounts
Warrior stinger/grill hoop/winch mount
High lift jack w/ Isolator
Shackles all 4 corners
Barnes 4x4 ¼" flat skid
Home built rear bumper/spare tire carrier w/ 2" receiver
4&7 pin trailer wiring
Smitty Built Snatch block
LED Flood lights
LED Spot lights
LED Eagle eye Rock lights
ARB CKMTA12 Aircompressor
TJ fender flairs
Steel braided front brake lines
20 gallon gas tank upgrade
H4 headlight conversion w/ relay upgrade
Body mounted bottle opener
Under hood tool box
Cowl vent scoop


Interior:
Smitty Built security console
Alpine 9884 CD/Mp3 player
Polk DB461P dash speakers
Polk DB6502 overhead speakers
Polk DB692 rear wedge speakers
Rockville 10" powered subwoofer
Alpine PDX-F4 four channel amp
Dakota SGI-5 signal generator (speedo correction)
Half steel doors & soft doors
Black Quadra-Top
Grant Steering wheel
Autometer gauge bezels
Autometer Ultra-lite gauges with LED lights (Tach, Speedo, Fuel, Vacuum, Volt,Temp, Oil press)
Contour V carling switches (Winch power, Winch In/Out, Engine Fan, Fog/Spot,Rock lights, Compressor, Lockers)
Mastercraft Baja RS seats
Cobra CB w/Firestick antenna
JeepAir A/C
C.RES 2 Cargo net
SpiderWeb Shade
LED interior overhead lighting
Home built wooden trunk deck lid

Future Mods:
LJ stretch
Links/ORI's
4D's
Roll cage
LS Engine
 

·
RIP one good jeeper
Joined
·
20,445 Posts
It's cheap and I run one but I haven't thought about it interfering with an antiwrap bar at all. There are three positions to adjust the shocks so I'm sure you could work around it.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is $126 normal price or is this one of those bs over price stuff to make it look like its on sale? Ive never really priced them out before. Anti- do you see any added benefits over using the stock mounts?

Anyone know where to get the best price on spicer 2-2-1379? I know I found them before for under $20, but Im having trouble now.
 

·
RIP one good jeeper
Joined
·
20,445 Posts
For the 8.8 swap its tough to get shocks that work unless they hang down like the stock Dana 35 and catch on everything. There just isn't enough room for the travel needed even with huge springs. I like mine but I'm also looking at a spring over in the rear soon so that will change the game up a little. And that is the best price on it. If you order it anywhere else its way too expensive. Don't forget the lower mounts too.



 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OT but my jeep related. I scored some seat belts to today on fleabay. When I swapped roll-bars with a buddy back in Charlotte I forgot to swap the rear female belts that bolt to the floor. Didn't realize the sport style lap belt females were twice as long. Basically making the shoulder strap useless. Although I do have future plans for TJ roll-bar/soft top swap. YJ soft tops are just to much of a PITA to put up and down by yourself. Plus it will match the newly installed TJ fenders :p
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So what welders are people using? In looking to buy a welder cause I wouldn't trust my harbor freight stick welder to soldier a wire! Anyways I'm starting to do research an educate myself better on them. I don't want to completely break the bank getting some crazy 400A welder. It will be used for odds and ends. More importantly it will be used for my 8.8 swap and SOA. Then bumpers and what ever else I can think of down the road. I was looking at a MIG, but I've heard different stories on how big. I've heard for my purposes I would need at least a 150A and I've also heard I should at least get a 220A and i would be better off with stick. What's you guys opinion? What do y'all use for your rig? Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welders anyone???

I ordered a front female buckle out of the 92-95 from ebay. It has a bend in the plastic casing. Has anyone fixed this before? I am not sure if it is a thermoplastic. I have some ideas either heatgun or if I can manage to get the seatbelt out then maybe try putting the plastic in boiling water to try to soften it so I can reset it straight. Has anyone tried this???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,316 Posts
So what welders are people using? In looking to buy a welder cause I wouldn't trust my harbor freight stick welder to soldier a wire! Anyways I'm starting to do research an educate myself better on them. I don't want to completely break the bank getting some crazy 400A welder. It will be used for odds and ends. More importantly it will be used for my 8.8 swap and SOA. Then bumpers and what ever else I can think of down the road. I was looking at a MIG, but I've heard different stories on how big. I've heard for my purposes I would need at least a 150A and I've also heard I should at least get a 220A and i would be better off with stick. What's you guys opinion? What do y'all use for your rig? Thanks!
I personally like my MIG. It's a Lincoln 180 runs on 220v. It works great for welding anything small or big. Lots of guys use a 110v but you got to be careful with what you get, as you have found out with your harbor freight one. I started out learning on our ranch with a stick, then taught myself with a MIG. They are super easy to use and welds look much better than my stick welds. I like the Lincoln since its a very affordable welder but can still weld on par with a Miller or Hobart.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I personally like my MIG. It's a Lincoln 180 runs on 220v. It works great for welding anything small or big. Lots of guys use a 110v but you got to be careful with what you get, as you have found out with your harbor freight one. I started out learning on our ranch with a stick, then taught myself with a MIG. They are super easy to use and welds look much better than my stick welds. I like the Lincoln since its a very affordable welder but can still weld on par with a Miller or Hobart.
I was looking at the Lincoln 180 dual (mig). It can use 220v or 110V. I liked that because of flexibility of power. I just wonder if its as good as the true 220v. The only thing that sucks is its $900. I have seen the lincoln 140 around $400. Its a 110V welder. Would that be sufficient? Or do you think a 180A would be the minimum I need?

Side note I used a hair dryer to heat up the seatbelt casing and it worked like a charm to reform it:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,408 Posts
If you have an outlet and enough money you should do a Miller/Lincoln/Hobart 180 MIG. If you need to go cheaper, I strongly recommend the Hobart 135 MIG. It can lay strong welds with good penetration to that 8.8 axle. You just have to go full power, low speed, .35 wire and I use CO2 for my hotter stuff. It has a much lower cycle life due to running hot but gets it done.

And before anyone questions my welds, yes I've done plenty of bad welds so I know the difference. I started out with pretty and weak welds. Then I started laying really ugly and strong welds. Now they are unintentionally looking better as I focus on heat, pushing/pulling, puddle, proper wire, line speed, prep, etc. It turns out the machine has been very capable...I was the problem,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
899 Posts
If you have an outlet and enough money you should do a Miller/Lincoln/Hobart 180 MIG. If you need to go cheaper, I strongly recommend the Hobart 135 MIG. It can lay strong welds with good penetration to that 8.8 axle. You just have to go full power, low speed, .35 wire and I use CO2 for my hotter stuff. It has a much lower cycle life due to running hot but gets it done.

And before anyone questions my welds, yes I've done plenty of bad welds so I know the difference. I started out with pretty and weak welds. Then I started laying really ugly and strong welds. Now they are unintentionally looking better as I focus on heat, pushing/pulling, puddle, proper wire, line speed, prep, etc. It turns out the machine has been very capable...I was the problem,
This.

I put the shock tabs near the top of the tube on my 8.8. Seem to work just fine
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Today was a great day. I finally went through my first tank of gas since swapping the transmission, fixing the vacuum leaks, and fixing a all the check engine lights. For the first time since u have owned my jeep (2004) I got over 200 miles to the tank. I ended up with 12.9 mpg. That is a far cry from the, 6 mpg I was getting before and I definitely wasn't light on the skinny pedal. I know the 4.10's are to tall for the v8 I'm sure I would get better mpg with 3.73's, but for me awesome day :thumbsup:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well she's been running good so no new build update. However if anyone is within a days drive of Daytona FL then I definatly suggest they go to Jeep Beach this weekend! http://www.jeepbeach.com/index.html check it out! Its going to be awesome!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just a few shots from this weekend. It was awesome!



getting pulled off the course. I broke the d/s at the beginning of the course.









line to get on the beach



x2



never in my life seen so many jeeps (behind)



(infront)



all in all it was an awesome weekend! Hope to see some of you guys down there next year representing the YJ's :highfive:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was wanting to know what is a good price for a full float dana 60 rear with drum brakes and 410 gears? I guy wants to sell me one for 275. He also knows a guy that wants to buy my dana 35 for $250. So basically I would pay $25 bucks for the axle. What is your thoughts? Is a drum dana 60 worth $275? If not does it really matter cause he is hooking me up with a guy that will buy my 35 for 250? I have to make this desision soon cause the guy needs the asap for a daily driver. An axle upgrade is long over due for me soo is this the opportunity I should jump on???
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I started to service the winch I bought on CL. I got all of the planetary gears removed, cleaned with purple power and a few cans of brake cleaner. No rust! Then regreased and re assmbled. I have to wait on a gasket though, it didnt make it through. The Warn customer service said I had a 90% chance of being able to reuse it... well I guess im the 10%. Here are some pics.

Cracking it open


1st set of gears


Thrust bushing


2nd set of gears


I didnt take a picture of the 3rd set of gears, but they were behind the second set. Here is the sliding ring gear. Notice the grooved side faces toward the winch drum. It must go back in that way.


All cleaned up!


Greased and re-assembled (minus the other side of the housing)


Need to do:
-re-tap the hole in the drum to mount the winch rope
-tap the new tie rods I ordered. (cannot believe they are not tapped from the factory)
-Dis assemble motor and clean
-gather parts to wire solenoids to be relocated under the hood
-pick up new bumpers :2thumbsup:
 
1 - 20 of 840 Posts
Top