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4.5 clears the 35's pretty nice. maybe some coil spacers and shackles with your lift will also help it out a little bit.
on my girls cherokee i did the 4.5 with a shackle in the back and bushwacker flat flares and it clears 35's fine for flex and we didn't trim much.

ill be following curious to how it will all end up
more lift would take away from being low..........:cool:
 

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So are you going with a BDS 4 link?? Cuz TNT and Clayton "long arm kits" arent 4 links.....ther radius arms/2link setup in sort of theory:D



on a side not for BUMP STOPS go to the Junk Yard!!! Ive been keeping notes at work like a lil nerd and

older toyota pickups have a decent rear bumpstop
but the better choice seems to be 03- and up rear bumps off a ram 1500 somethin to look at and is def gonna be cheaper than daystar or some place like that
 

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Haha, I'm a little nervous because the only info I can get are pretty much just from pics. BUT I'm also not too worried about how $h!tty my cuts look because this isn't a DD. So I'll get a set of hoops in there some how :D.
Bring it to the Robdizzle's i should have or can get the tooling to do it nice..
 

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hey post up some pix of the way you mounted it to the u bolt plates....

its gonna be cheaper for a piece of tube from a local shop DONT waste ur money for DOM or shipping. A piece of HREW will be fine for a brace just get a decent wall thickness.
 

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I heard my sliders may hold up better if I FULLY weld them in instead of just stitching them in. I will do this, and if it doesn't work, I'll brace them.
ur info is garbage.......a few more beads wont change anything. do it right now that you know theyve bent. Buy the stiffeners then get some box tube and be done..
 

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The hell they wont. A full weld is absolutely stronger than stitch welds. I don't know why someone would stitch weld sliders in the first place, you stitch weld thin sheet metal so that you don't burn through or warp it.
if ur weldin2x6 to sheet metal/unibody going from a bunch of little stitch welds to a full on seam WILL NOT change anything because...............ur still welding to sheet metal. SO before you pipe in.....think before you speak:thumbsup:
 

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Ok..so say you didn't do the shocks through the floor..what issue is there? When on 3" and 35's?
I mean obviously rubbing up front, bump stop & trimming is needed, same for the rear. Cut & fold recommended so your not rubbing..but what else is there?
have u read the hole thread lmao????? He has shock hoops in the rear......
 

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The slate rocks are brutal and I was always getting hung up on the stock LCA mounts. My long arms always slide over the rocks except for the one or two times I have had the above situation. Thats why its give or take on the whole short/mid/long arm debate. I will go with long arms for now and sell them later when I do my mid-arm setup. When I had my 6.5" lift and longest doetsch techs possible in my old xj, it would unseat the coils past my bumpstops. Thats before I knew how much was involved in building a true wheeling rig. They bumpstopped themselves perfect however and I will probably run the same shocks again.
and what does this have to do with his build???:laugh:
 
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