Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Also works with standard (non-intermittent) wipers. If going to the junk yard to get one, the intermittent wiper delay modules (part #5600 6957) were available on the following:

  • 1985-1994 Cherokee
  • 1986-1992 Comanche
  • 1985-1990 Wagoneer

Intermittent wipers are one of those things that you really don't realize how much you love them until you don't have them. I tried adding intermittent wipers to my standard wiper 1995 Wrangler using OEM parts. I purchased the wiper switch new and since the Intermittent Wiper Control Module, hereinafter called the wiper delay box or the delay box, is no longer available I got one at the local Pick N Pull from a Cherokee along with the stalk (multifunction switch). The wiper delay box wasn't working as there was too much water damage. I tried replacing the capacitors which didn't help. I've since purchased two more wiper delay boxes off Ebay of which neither worked correctly even after replacing their capacitors. Then I came across a link posted by @fishadventure (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/what-did-you-do-your-yj-today-214230/index1796.html#post36765233) of a wiper delay board he planned to use for his custom CJ dash. I wasn't even aware they made them. So thanks to him I got out of the salvage yard delay box nightmare and ordered one.

Preferring not to cut into the factory harness unnecessarily, I decided to do all the electrical modifications within the wiper delay box itself. This also makes for easy removal. With a little board trimming and the relocation of the potentiometer it will fit quite nicely. The only drawback is it requires adding a separate and independent knob to control the wipers when wanting to use the delay function. I'm calling this a restomod because it is using a combination of old parts along with modern parts.

Parts List:
MXA041 windshield wiper timer (google "MXA041")
Miscellaneous grommets (I used these)
20 feet of 18 gauge wire, preferably four feet each of five different colors
Zip ties or (4) 0.75" machine screws with washers, nuts, and non-conductive washers
5 pin connector for 18 gauge wires for potentiometer (optional)

Tools list:
Solder iron and solder
Soldering gun (optional)
Desoldering Pump (Solder Sucker) http://www.digikey.com/product-deta...pc&WT.srch=1&gclid=CJHhlID0qtACFREGhgodpagInw
Drill and miscellaneous drill bits (1/8", 5/32", 9/32", 3/8")
Dremel with cutoff disk (or something to cut the circuit board)
Multimeter
Wire cutters
Needle nose pliers
Wire strippers
Sharpie

Step 1 - Wiper Delay Box Removal

The wiper delay box is under the dash. It is connected to the wiper switch at the base of the steering column and velcroed to a small plate if your wipers were intermittent from the factory.



Step 2 - Clear the OEM Board

You need to remove all the components from the wiper delay board but NOT the pins! To open the wiper delay box, there are three tabs. Using a small screwdriver inserted in the direction of the arrows you can carefully pry them open one at a time starting with number one.



Here you can see the four retaining tabs. To remove the board from the box, use a small screwdriver to carefully wedge the side opposite the hinge (the plastic box side will bow out enough to clear the pins) up past the two retaining tabs labeled three and four. Then carefully remove the board from under the remaining two tabs labeled one and two.



To strip the board, you melt the solder on the back side and remove the molten solder with a solder sucker.


Be aware that the board is covered with some waterproofing material that slows the entire process. Then use needle nose pliers to remove the components from the board but again, not the pins. You may need to reheat the back side of the component as you pull it. I used a soldering gun (much more powerful) for this since I no longer needed the printed circuit on the back of the board. It is faster than using the soldering iron but destroys the printed circuit in the process. Here is what the board will look like with all the components removed. It took me about 30 minutes to remove all the components.



Step 3 - Resize the New Board

The MXA041 is a little too big in both directions to fit on top of the OEM board so trimming is required. Position the MXA041 with the potentiometer facing the side opposite the hinge and mark the width (distance between the pins) with a Sharpie. Use a Dremel with a cut-off disk to trim it. You do not want to destroy the pre-drilled mounting holes so remove a little width from each side rather than all from one side. There's also a long plastic tab in the delay box itself that seats against the harness side pins when the lid is closed to keep the pins from bending in when attaching the connector. When measuring how much to cut off the width take an extra approximately one-eighth of an inch to allow the tab to seat properly.



For length, I had enough room under the potentiometer to take what I needed. Make sure you don't cut into the printed circuit on the backside. If necessary, you can take it off the opposite side.




Step 4 - Prep the OEM Board

Since you only need the pins from the OEM board and not the printed circuit, use the Dremel again to notch out a trench along the pins to separate them from the rest of the printed circuit. This will reduce the potential of a short. On the harness side, the pins are very close together so isolate them from each other as well using the same process.



Then use a continuity tester to ensure ALL pins are separated from each other.



Using the new board as a guide, mark and drill the four corner mounting holes into the OEM board. Remember to position the new board to the wiper switch side to leave clearance for the tab described in step 3.

Here is the schematic of how it will be wired.



The black lines between the two sides of the C211 connector are direct wires between pins. Those should be soldered in on the back of the OEM board. Use a 6" piece (trim as necessary) off each of the (5) four foot sections of 18 gauge wire for this. (I used solid bell wire I had on hand). I forgot to take a picture at the time so this one is further along.



Now check your work for continuity with your meter. Make sure the connected pins shows zero resistance. Also make sure you have an open line to the adjoining pins both across the board and on each side.

Cut another 6" piece off the remaining five 3.5' lengths of wire. That should leave you three feet of each color for the potentiometer. Of these 5 short wires, four will be soldered to pins on the OEM board and the last one will be used as a jumper (pink wire on my schematic and board) on the MXA041 in step 6. The orange, purple, and black wires from the schematic are soldered to the corresponding pins (D, E, and G respectively) on the wiper switch side of the OEM board. Those pins have a hole in them so just bend them over slightly to run the wire through the hole and solder it to the opposite side of the pin as shown. (Again, this picture was taken later.)



The green wire from the schematic is soldered to the backside of pin E on the harness side connector. When the two boards are connected together, this wire will run under the new board and up through an existing hole as shown so it doesn't interfere with the tab from step 3.



Step 5 - Remove the Potentiometer

In order to fit the board inside the wiper delay box the potentiometer must be removed. As an added benefit, that will allow it to be mounted in a more convenient location than when it was attached to the board because it is much smaller than the whole assembly. You will be adding enough wire to mount the knob where you want it but not to exceed three feet in length per the manufacturer. Note the positions of the five mounting points as you must reconnect the pins on the potentiometer to the wire extensions in the proper location.



Use the soldering iron along with the solder sucker on this board since you need to keep the printed tabs intact for attaching the extension wires. Notice the silver still around the holes in the board. That is part of the printed circuit for attaching the extension wires.



You will use the remaining (5) three foot pieces of 18 gauge wire for the potentiometer. The length depends on how far from wiper delay box you intend to mount the potentiometer and knob. Using different color wires makes it easier to identify what goes where when attaching the potentiometer to the other end of the extension wires. Strip a quarter inch of insulation from one end of the wire and run the stripped edges through the board from the top (one at a time)…



…and solder them to the printed circuit on the bottom of the board. Pins three and four were connected via the printed circuit on the board so I just soldered them together as well.



Step 6 - Attach MXA041 to OEM board

Use zip ties to attach the two boards together with some sort of isolators that do not conduct electricity. I used grommets from a Harbor Freight grommet kit but nylon spacers would also work.





Trim the wires that are attached to the pins on the OEM board just long enough to reach the pins on the MXA041. Then connect them to the corresponding pins on the MXA041 (and tighten the set screws) along with the positive jumper wire (pink schematic wire) from the "NO" pin to the "+" pin on the MXA041 (see the third picture in step 7 which shows where I ran the wires).



Step 7 - Install Board Assembly into Wiper Delay Box

Drill a hole in the wiper delay box on the side of the potentiometer (side opposite delay box hinge) large enough for a grommet and high enough to not interfere with the boards. I used one from the Harbor Freight kit that takes a three-eighths inch bit as it held the 5 potentiometer wires perfectly. Run the wires through the grommet as you carefully work the board assembly into the wiper delay box until the OEM board snaps into place.



Solder the potentiometer to the other end of the three foot extension wires paying attention to the pin order.



This is how the wiper delay box should look and is ready for installation in the Jeep. If desired (I did), you can add a 5 pin connector in the potentiometer wire extensions for easier removal.



This is a good time to test it. Plug the wiper delay box back in to the C211 connector.
1. Verify the hazard lights work.
Turn the key to ACC and verify the following work…
2. Turn signals.
3. Brake lights.
4. Low wipers on OEM stalk.
5. High wipers on OEM stalk.
6. Mist on OEM stalk.
7. Delay wipers from potentiometer with OEM stalk off.

Step 8 (Optional) - Install Connector

In order to facilitate removing the wiper delay box for any future repairs, you can add a connector to the potentiometer wires at the wiper delay box. The only connector I had that would accept five wires was a 6 pin Weatherpack connector. It's a good idea to test the connections with a meter for continuity before moving on to the installation.



Now it's ready for final install.



Step 9 - Installation

Find a location that you would like to install the potentiometer. Make sure there is adequate room behind the panel. I decided to put mine just under the 4 wheel drive indicator gauge for ease of access. I fed the wires up through the gauge cutout in the metal dash.



I drilled a 9/32" hole in the panel for the potentiometer. The potentiometer has a small tab on it to keep it from rotating.



I used a 5/32" drill bit to make a hole for the tab to seat being careful not to drill through to the front of the panel.



Potentiometer installed and panel ready to go back on.



I don't have a knob right now so I used an extra bumper I had laying around for the tailgate stop.



And finally zip tie everything up out of sight.



Step 10 - Final Testing


Make sure you're comfortable with a soldering iron before attempting this. It's a bit more work than I had anticipated but I sure am glad to have intermittent wipers with new components.
 

·
I pledge allegiance
Joined
·
4,421 Posts
Brainiac. >:)
 
  • Like
Reactions: 14Sport

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I guess 14Sport has moved on--not in Member's List, last post Feb2017. No photos in this thread--does anybody have at least the schematic he posted in this thread for this mod?


Edit: Ok, spoke too soon--got it figured out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Wiper Delay RestoMod

Greetings 14Sport,
Hope all is well with you and your loved ones.
I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 that the intermittent wipers function stopped working.
It is likely that your writeup will apply directly to my application.
All of the images on Photo Bucket are no longer accessible.
Would you be kind enough to email the images to me so that I can do the modifications to my wiper delay module?
[email protected]
Thank you and have a pleasant day.
Yanal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Greetings XJsRule,
Hope all is well with you and your loved ones.
I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 that the intermittent wipers function stopped working.
Would you be kind enough to email images or wiring diagram to me so that I can do the modifications to my wiper delay module?
[email protected]
Thank you and have a pleasant day.
Yanal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I only have 2 posts, so I was not allowed to include a link or image.
Search you tube for(12V Automotive Intermittent Wiper / Flasher Circuit) and you'll find a video with the simple circuit diagram including the values and numbers for each component.
Hop it helps anyone who may need it.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top