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How to Speaker Upgrade Tutorial: 4x6" to 5.25" (Lots of pics)

77K views 141 replies 40 participants last post by  esad_b 
#1 ·
Figured I would do a write up and make it as detailed as possible so that people see how to upgrade their 4x6" speakers to 5.25" up front in their TJ. This is a decent improvement over the stock speakers when done and I was very pleased with the end result. The main issue with the stock speakers was that as soon as I turned up the music a bit up, the fronts would rattle this was because the screws were loose and the speakers just plain sucked for any decent music output.

It is a fairly straight forward procedure but it does involve some cutting on a little bar inside the dash as the 5.25" speaker is oval so its not a simple plug and play. This guide is good for 97 to 06 year TJ's.

This install took ~2hours and I took my time and I even had a bite to eat in between.

Tools needed:
Philips Screw Driver
Allan Head Screw Driver
Pliers
Wire Strippers
Dremel or some sort of hack saw in order to cut steel beam - Dremel recommended
5.25" NalinMFG speaker adapters
PolyFill
5.25" Speakers of your choice

*****
Another member mentioned that he used 18 gauge tin-snips to cut the steel beam off instead of using a dremel. So if you don't have a dremel guess you can try tin-snips.

Just wanted to add; I cut the bar with a pair of 18 gauge tin-snips that I paid $15 for. Just wanted to add this in case folks are thinking they need a higher priced Dremel or other tool.

- Chris
*****

There is a variety of adapters plates online and they range from 10-20$. I really did not want to go with some plastic ones due to maybe cracking or rattling so I opted to go with the NalinMFG. I had previously read some good reviews about them and figured why not give them a try considering they are 14g CNC laser cut steel. These plates will also fit ANY 5.25" aftermarket speaker. The quality of these adapters is really superb and solid. In your package you receive two (2) adapter plates(driver & passenger), (8) #8 machine bolts, and (8) #8 nylock nuts. and you really can't beat the price of $14.99.

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Procedure:
Okay, here we go.

1) Start of by removing the 2 Philip head screws

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2) Once removed you will find your speaker setup. As you can see from my pictures this was quite a ghetto setup. Remove the 4 or however many screws hold your speakers.

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3) Once the speaker is removed, you will be left over with other adapters/random stuff perhaps like me. I removed everything and just left the bare steel framing there. Because the NalingMFG adapters bolt straight into the steel frames holes you don't need any of this extra stuff.

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4) This is the tricky part, this is what you want to cut as much as possible off in order to fit the speakers in. It's quite heavy steel so get your dremel out and start cutting. This was the longest part of the entire upgrade. And I highly recommend to use the dremel as it makes the job fairly easy. It was a bit hard getting the dremel in there due to space constraints but I managed. Also I did remove the glove compartment to make things easier.

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You also might want to put something in the rear because there will be sparks flying, I had this towel lying around, soaked it a bit with water and covered the rear so no sparks would get anywheres and damage anything.

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Once you cut one part off you can easily bend it at the upper portion, this will make it a lot easier to get to. Also you can probably just cut a bit at the top and wiggle it until it breaks off if your in a hurry. Here is a picture of the bottom all cut.

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5) This is what the end result should look like when you finish taking the bracket off.
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And here is how much I actually cut off from the actual steel framing. I had no issues fitting the speakers in afterwards.

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6) After this it's pretty straight forward and you just have to attach your speakers to the bracket and screw the bracket on and connect the wires.

Here are the speakers that I had picked up online. They are Polk Audio DB521 5.25". They came with screws but I did not have to use them at all. The nice thing with these speakers is you can move the tweets around and position them at different angles of your liking.

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7) Use the screws provided that came with the adapters plates to attach your speakers to the plate itself.

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8) After the speakers are mounted, you want to connect the speakers to your existing wires. IMPORTANT: Usual colour code is the wire that is striped (red/white) is the (+) and the solid colour wire (white) is the (-), you don't want to flip the polarity on the connections you could ruin your speakers. If your not sure what's what, before disconnecting your old speaker look carefully and you should see a small (+) and (-) on the board so make notice of that.

The speakers I bought came from a 04 TJ so they already had the pigtail on them for straight connection, but I just cut those off and spliced in the wires.

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If your upgrading in a newer TJ, I guess this would of been just straight plug and play setup.

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9) Start sliding in your speakers into the hole and it should be a easy fit if you have removed enough from the steel frame.

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And here is a picture of the speakers actually mounted on the frame. Nice and tight and there should not be any rattling.

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Optional: Polyfill

I read online that polyfill helps with keeping the sound waves from bouncing around. Especially since the TJ is not that great of a vehicle for sound any little bit helps. You can pick up polyfill at walmart and it was like $5. I just kept stuffing it in until I noticed it was getting really full back there.

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Conclusion and Thoughts:
Overall this upgrade cost me just under $80 for the speakers and the plates. Personally think it was well worth the price especially since we all listen to music on a daily basis in the Jeep. Driving the Jeep earlier tonight I noticed it sounded a lot more balanced inside and almost as fell I was being hit by music all around me and not just coming from the sound bar.

The NalinMFG Adapters were wonderful and of high quality and they were designed to be a perfect fit. I would highly recommend these for anyone planning on doing this upgrade. :2thumbsup:

And here is a couple of images from the finished product. If you have any questions or if something is not detailed enough please let me know. Cheers.

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#80 ·
Wow, I know this is an older post but it's new to me. What a great write up! Thanks so much! I'll be doing this very soon and this will come in handy.
 
#85 ·
Thanks a lot! its a fairly straight forward install, the hardest part is probably cutting that beam off unless you have a newer TJ than your all set.

It certainly make my life easier!

Your thread is more detailed than any instructions I could ever hope to include. Not only does it have step by step photography, but viewers are able to get instant input from hundreds of other people that have already performed the installation.

:thumbsup:
Haha no worries Nalin! Glad to give back to this forum, it's saved me a few hundred dollars from some of the DIY's and tips that I used. :cheers:

It's a great thread, coupled with a great product/company. Glad I was lucky enough to come across it (the original Nalin thread).
No doubt its a great product. They have plastic ones on crutchfield as well but I've heard the quality is junk and they tend to rattle. So I knew it wasn't worth my time and that I should give the Nalin ones a go.

The Nalin adapters are an amazing product and quality. :thumbsup:
 
#89 ·
Got my Nalin bracket in today, I'll be dremmeling later this evening..... :)

Some observations:

- DB651's fit into my stock soundbar but mounting holes did not line up. Drilled some new ones right through the fabric and it worked great.

- Way, way easier to do this by taking the soundbar off. 4 bolts -- easy mode.

- For you midwesterners, ABC warehouse sells these. And price matches. I got DB651+DB521 for $118 out the door including tax.
 
#90 ·
Do the adapters.

One of my best mods up with regearing - no joke.

I put some seriously good quality hertz audio in the front and they just blew apart my clarion 4x6s.

Take the time, find a good set of speakers. 5.25" all the way around.

Oh and consider the tweeter moutns NalinMFG makes. I got bummed on shipping due to being in Canada and made my own mounts by the sun visor.

They're overpowering everything. These tweeters need to be moved farther back - like right where the nalinMFG mounts are?!?!
 
#91 ·
Do the adapters.

One of my best mods up with regearing - no joke.

I put some seriously good quality hertz audio in the front and they just blew apart my clarion 4x6s.

Take the time, find a good set of speakers. 5.25" all the way around.

Oh and consider the tweeter moutns NalinMFG makes. I got bummed on shipping due to being in Canada and made my own mounts by the sun visor.

They're overpowering everything. These tweeters need to be moved farther back - like right where the nalinMFG mounts are?!?!


Right where they need to be :2thumbsup:
 
#92 ·
I have read this whole thread and book marking it so I can start working on my Jeep when I get home next week.

But what I have seen is if anyone has used the Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System in the pods? Where is the best place to put the tweeter from these?

I have Nalin's adapters for the 5.25's for the dash and the bought the Polk Audio db5251 Component System with the tweeter mounting brackets from Nalin as well.
 
#93 ·
I have read this whole thread and book marking it so I can start working on my Jeep when I get home next week.

But what I have seen is if anyone has used the Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System in the pods? Where is the best place to put the tweeter from these?

I have Nalin's adapters for the 5.25's for the dash and the bought the Polk Audio db5251 Component System with the tweeter mounting brackets from Nalin as well.
The Polk Audio DB6501-s (slim) is what I put in my soundbar and it fit like a glove. I didn't have to adjust anything or worry about tweeter location. Sounds great to me. Screw holes matched right up. That'd be the way to go I'd think. Not sure if you can Exchange the ones you say you bought. I also paint my speaker grills black.

Purple Mode of transport Automotive exterior Vehicle door Head restraint


Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Sleeve Hood
 
#97 ·
I have a question for those of you who have done this modification. While doing your due diligence by looking up write-ups and searching the internet for information...were you able to identify which adapters were made by NalinMFG by their unique rounded shape/visual appearance? I am seeking direct consumer feedback through this survey question in order to supplement consumer testimony in a lawsuit from an eBay seller claiming that he has the right to sell exact copies(minus the logo). Secondary meaning( http://www.wiemeltlaw.com/id16.html ) must to be confirmed in order to uphold a previous eBay ruling of trade dress violation. Thank you in advance for your time.
 
#100 ·
How much of a difference will the DB521 make over Polk 4x6's?
Also, if I were to go with the DB521 up front and the DB651s in the soundbar, would I need an amp? I currently have a JVC KD-HDR70 headunit (MOS-FET 50W x 4 (20W RMS x 4)). Would you recommend running new wire to the speakers or is the stock wiring sufficient?

I am also looking to add a sub since there is 0 bass in my current set up. I only want some bass. I'm not looking to shake my whole jeep apart and I don't to spend a lot of money. I don't want to put anything behind the rear seat, or in the bottom of it. I've seen some center console subs (my center console did not come with a sub) and I think I want to take that route. I saw someone with the Sound Ordinance B-8PT http://www.crutchfield.com/S-wphI5kufksZ/p_777B8PT/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PT.html. I like it because it has a built in amp. I also saw something where a guy cut a hole in the side of the plastic liner of the console and mounted a 6.5" sub directly to that and sealed the top with a piece of plywood.
 
#103 ·
Both affect the backwave. The baffle forces the pressure on the back of the cone limiting the cones movement. The polyfil disperses the backwave. Most prefer the polyfil including myself and I've tried both. Adding the dime sized hole turns the baffle into an aperiodic enclosure. The hole should be off center up or down not right behind the center of the speaker (vent pole).
 
#105 ·
dougiefresh131 said:
How much of a difference will the DB521 make over Polk 4x6's?
Also, if I were to go with the DB521 up front and the DB651s in the soundbar, would I need an amp? I currently have a JVC KD-HDR70 headunit (MOS-FET 50W x 4 (20W RMS x 4)). Would you recommend running new wire to the speakers or is the stock wiring sufficient?

I am also looking to add a sub since there is 0 bass in my current set up. I only want some bass. I'm not looking to shake my whole jeep apart and I don't to spend a lot of money. I don't want to put anything behind the rear seat, or in the bottom of it. I've seen some center console subs (my center console did not come with a sub) and I think I want to take that route. I saw someone with the Sound Ordinance B-8PT http://www.crutchfield.com/S-wphI5kufksZ/p_777B8PT/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PT.html. I like it because it has a built in amp. I also saw something where a guy cut a hole in the side of the plastic liner of the console and mounted a 6.5" sub directly to that and sealed the top with a piece of plywood.
Any 4x6 speaker just doesn't have enough kick in it for you to notice the particular speaker upfront. The 5.25 however does somewhat and you can hear the different between the two speakers.

There is consoles that came in jeeps that had the 7 speaker setup from the factory which had the sub right inside the console. I've seen a guide on here before how a guy turned his ordinary console into a sub one. Or you can just look on the classifieds and find a console that is sub ready?

I do know that the stock sub in the console is not that good tho and also recall seeing a thread of how some members actually upgrade the stock sub from the console to something aftermarket.

Also you wouldn't need an amp if you were to upgrade your front and rear speakers. I have 5.25 upfront and 6.5 in the rear, no issues and for me it sounds great.

Sent from the I-device using an APP
 
#106 ·
An amp makes ALL the difference in the world. I have a small amp (KTP-445) that only puts out 45 watts RMS per channel but it made a HUGE difference in my 5.25 / 6.5 Polk combo. If you drive with the top and/or doors off above 35 MPH you're really going to need an amp. Even at low volumes it made a big difference in mine. The stock head unit sounded like crap through nice speakers. I tried it but didn't tolerate it long at all.
 
#115 · (Edited)
Bought the adapters and all was great except two problems.
1. When i rotate light switch it hits the plate. (Not too big of a deal)
2. Driver side speaker will work until I mount the plate to dash.

Not Nalin mounts bought these before discovering this thread. Are they side specific?

Mounts I have http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZDCGVG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do I need to move the grounds attached below? The speaker crackles then the head unit says failure on display. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: Upon further testing same problem when i switched the sides of the speakers. Must have got a defective speaker. And switched plates, not hitting headlight switch anymore.
 
#116 ·
Bought the adapters and all was great except two problems.
1. When i rotate light switch it hits the plate. (Not too big of a deal)
2. Driver side speaker will work until I mount the plate to dash.

Not Nalin mounts bought these before discovering this thread. Are they side specific?

Mounts I have http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZDCGVG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do I need to move the grounds attached below? The speaker crackles then the head unit says failure on display. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: Upon further testing same problem when i switched the sides of the speakers. Must have got a defective speaker. And switched plates, not hitting headlight switch anymore.
1) sounds like you might have the plates reversed.
2) sounds like a grounding problem between plate and speaker. Since the speaker works until you mount it, clearly that means you short circuit something, check if anything is loose on the speaker. After reading your wiring info, and responding below.. it does appear like you got your polarities flipped.
 
#124 ·
ShizfunK said:
I did but the pic is wrong for some reason. They're shaped alpt more like yours than that pic. Rounded corners and 3 mounting holes for the speaker holes.
Ok I'm confused. In the first post you said you didn't buy the NALIN adapters? But now are saying you did? Because the picture you posted does not look like NALIN adapters..

NALIN adapters if bought from him/his website don't interfere with anything been running them now for 3 years, flawless!

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
 
#128 ·
Why wouldn't it work? It's straight forward to add the soundbar. You can even add PODS like the newer TJ's have instead of the whole bar..

However if you do get a OEM soundbar, get ready to replace the speakers in there also as the stock ones are junk.

Need a wiring diagram for the soundbar too? ;) I can get you the diagram if you need?
 
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