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7 speaker system makes quite a diff in the ti! Always thought about adding that sub in the console but never got around to it.

Both you guys must have newer TJs then? I think pre 02 has to cut the dash part of like I showed.

Don't forget to add polyfill!!!
Correct. 1997-2002 require trimming of the subframe brace. 2003-2006 bolt on without modification.
 

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http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEQWK?tag=diecastpro&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=B0002BEQWK&adid=15JM1KS3T9054TJV9Y79&&ref-refURL=http%3A%2F%2F4x4icon.com%2Foffroad%2F121606_cherokee_speakers%2Findex.htm

I recall them being cheaper somewhere else though, may try searching the part number.

The most popular speaker in my experience has been Polk's DB521.

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-5-25-Inch-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF8C/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1329588870&sr=1-2

Man this adapter sounds great. I'm extremely new to audio and I'm just plain not good at this stuff. What are some of the best 5.25" speakers? A lot of people in this thread have had to splice wires. Can you not get speakers that plug in?

How hard is it to get 6.25" speakers in the sounds bar? One said it was a pain in the *** but didn't go into detail.
 

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So, if I get the DB521's for the front, and want to get 6.5" in the pods. Which should I get, the DB651s or just DB651. Someone said earlier if you are not running a sub go with the slim mounts. Whats the difference? I plan on replacing my factory sub, but not sure if I will run an amplifier.

Thanks.
These are good comparisons:
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f13...ces-between-polk-audio-db651s-vs-db651-90072/

"As it turns out, in terms of mounting dimensions, both Polk Audio db651 and db651s are the same. The 'slim-ness' or 'shallow-ness' refers to what is being protruded out in front, ie the height of the dome. See merged non-scaled picture. (courtesy of Millionbuy.com and sonicelectronix.com).

This protruded dimension, unfortunately, is not reflected in the spec sheet released by Polk Audio.

Since the dome is higher for db651, it would be a little more work to reuse the OEM ring + grille. Hence using Polk's grilles makes more sense.

Reusing OEM ring+grille on db651s is not a problem.

Specs wise, the differences are:

db651

Power Handling (RMS) : 60 Watts
Power Handling (MAX) : 180 Watts
Frequency Response : 35Hz~22kHz

db651s

Power Handling (RMS) : 55 Watts
Power Handling (MAX) : 165 Watts
Frequency Response : 50Hz~22kHz"

http://www.c-j-l.net/Home/audio/db651_vs_db651s







(photos taken from second link)
 

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Thanks Nalin....I will be ordering some brackets from you soon...

So I understand the difference. My next question is, would I be able to use factory speaker covers on the non s version. From what I understand from the link you posted, you may or may not be able to. Has anyone installed the non s version and used their factory covers?
Judging by the picture I would say no, although I can't say from first hand experience. The speakers will come with new ones (however I know that a lot of people prefer the factory look for security reasons):

 

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No problem glad it's helping out people! Any questions just ask!

:cheers2:
It certainly make my life easier!

Your thread is more detailed than any instructions I could ever hope to include. Not only does it have step by step photography, but viewers are able to get instant input from hundreds of other people that have already performed the installation.

:thumbsup:
 

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Do the adapters.

One of my best mods up with regearing - no joke.

I put some seriously good quality hertz audio in the front and they just blew apart my clarion 4x6s.

Take the time, find a good set of speakers. 5.25" all the way around.

Oh and consider the tweeter moutns NalinMFG makes. I got bummed on shipping due to being in Canada and made my own mounts by the sun visor.

They're overpowering everything. These tweeters need to be moved farther back - like right where the nalinMFG mounts are?!?!


Right where they need to be :2thumbsup:
 

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I have a question for those of you who have done this modification. While doing your due diligence by looking up write-ups and searching the internet for information...were you able to identify which adapters were made by NalinMFG by their unique rounded shape/visual appearance? I am seeking direct consumer feedback through this survey question in order to supplement consumer testimony in a lawsuit from an eBay seller claiming that he has the right to sell exact copies(minus the logo). Secondary meaning( http://www.wiemeltlaw.com/id16.html ) must to be confirmed in order to uphold a previous eBay ruling of trade dress violation. Thank you in advance for your time.
 

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An amp makes ALL the difference in the world. I have a small amp (KTP-445) that only puts out 45 watts RMS per channel but it made a HUGE difference in my 5.25 / 6.5 Polk combo. If you drive with the top and/or doors off above 35 MPH you're really going to need an amp. Even at low volumes it made a big difference in mine. The stock head unit sounded like crap through nice speakers. I tried it but didn't tolerate it long at all.
Check out this neat little amp install:
http://www.jeepz.com/forum/product-reviews/31154-skinny-pedal-jeep-tj-amp-bracket.html
 

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everyone thats purchased the Nalin/polk packages, where are you guys mounting the crossovers. I can't decide on best spot. PLEASE HELP
Have you looked at inside the panel under steering wheel and inside the glovebox?
 

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May be a dumb question; so you can remove the tweeters from your existing DB521's and place them in these brackets? So far this is my favorite as far as that goes, although I fear they might get kicked or get wet. Better than up in the dash in your face though IMO.
I've been asked this a few times now so I want to make sure that this information is available for the masses.

Coaxial speakers, like the DB521, have tweeters that are literally part of the speaker and cannot be removed to be mounted in my tweeter bracket:


Component sets, like the DB5251, have everything mounted separately. A component set consists of the speakers, crossovers, and tweeters. Note how there is no way to mount the tweeter in the center of a component speaker(think of it like a mini subwoofer and the tweeter takes care of the highs). This is the type of setup that the tweeter mounts are made for.
 

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Bought the adapters and all was great except two problems.
1. When i rotate light switch it hits the plate. (Not too big of a deal)
2. Driver side speaker will work until I mount the plate to dash.

Not Nalin mounts bought these before discovering this thread. Are they side specific?

Mounts I have http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZDCGVG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do I need to move the grounds attached below? The speaker crackles then the head unit says failure on display. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: Upon further testing same problem when i switched the sides of the speakers. Must have got a defective speaker. And switched plates, not hitting headlight switch anymore.
Post a picture.
 

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Ok I'm confused. In the first post you said you didn't buy the NALIN adapters? But now are saying you did? Because the picture you posted does not look like NALIN adapters..

NALIN adapters if bought from him/his website don't interfere with anything been running them now for 3 years, flawless!

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
The only places to buy NalinMFG speaker adapters are from NalinMFG.com and eBay seller Nalin_Manufacturing_LLC. I have no resellers/affiliates.
 
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