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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me start by saying that I am not an audiophile. A decent sounding, stock stereo is all I need. My 03 TJ came with a blown sub. Not that I need a subwoofer, but since it's there I'd at least like it to work.

I found GCJoe's TJ Factory Sub Replacement thread and thought for $19.35 shipped, I'd give the Pyramid 6 1/2 subwoofer from Parts Express a try. I took some pictures as I installed it and thought I'd post them here.

It's a simple project that took me less than an hour to complete. That includes taking pictures.

While I used a cheapie sub, I suppose this would work for any sub you might try to install.

Here's a picture of the replacement subwoofer. Looks impressive.:hahaha:


Start by removing the rubber liner from the front cup holder. Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt.


Next, remove the rubber liner from the rear cupholder. Use a t30 Apex to remove the bolts. You can now lift up your center console.


Next is the electrical husk. Usually they have a red lock on them that you have to click over first. My center console had been removed a number of times by the previous owner. I don't see the red lock, so I'm thinking he broke it. Oh well, no matter. To separate the husk, push down on the tab with a small screwdriver and pull the two halves apart. Yours may look different for a different year Wrangler, but the idea is the same.


Now, lay your console on the workbench upside down. There are two gold brackets, one on the front and one on the rear or the sub enclosure. If you look, you notice that there are push nuts holding these brackets to the enclosure. You need to remove these push nuts without destroying them.

Front push nut.


Rear push nut.


Using a very small flat blade screwdriver, gently open the "teeth" of the push nuts. Do this by carefully prying between the teeth of the push nut and the plastic bolt that they are attached to. You don't need to open them much and you don't need to bend all of them. Once you've pried a few of them open, use a pair of needlenose pliers to remove them.

After you get the push nuts off, use the needle nose plier to push the teeth of the nut back down into place. Basically you are going to flatten the push nut. Well, not completely flat. You want to move the teeth back just enough so when you reinstall the push nuts they will grab on the bolt again. This will make sense when we put everything back together.


Lay the console on it's side and remove these three phillips screws. You can now slide the enclosure out of the bottom of the console.


Remove the four Apex screws that hold the sub in place. They are size t15. Then, break the seal between the sub and the enclose by gently prying with a screwdriver. Remove the factory sub from the enclosure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
This half moon shaped do-hickey is what prevents your new speaker from sitting flush with the enclosure. Use a grinder, dremel, sandpaper, etc... to remove enough of it to allow your new sub to sit flush against the enclosure.


I used GCJoes suggestion for wiring the sub, and hooked up grey + and black -. Also, notice in the above picture that I taped up the unused wires and then taped them to the harness.

Then, set the new sub in the enclose and center it between the old speaker mounting holes. Use a 3/32 drill bit, gently drill a new hole to mount the speaker. CAREFULLY install the one sub mounting screw. Continue to drill and install the other three screws. Remember this is plastic. All you need to do is install them hand tight. Any more and you'll strip the plastic. Also, notice how I'm holding my finger against the screw in case the Apex should slip. Don't want to accidentally punch a hole in the new sub!


New sub in, wires routed.


Slip the enclosure back into the console. Line up the plastic bolts that the push nuts go on. Find a small deepwell socket that is large enough to slip over the plastic bolt, but is smaller than the push nut. Set the push nut on the plastic bolt, and with the socket, push the nut down onto the plastic bolt. Hence the name, push nut. :p


Lay the console on it's side and reinstall the three screws by the speaker.

Reconnect the electrical husk, being sure to snap the red lock into place if your husk is so equipped. Reinstall the bolts in both cupholders, along with the rubber liners.


You're done!

Enjoy the mediocre, but cheap new sub.
 

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you need to be here a month and have 50 posts i believe. and then you just upload to photobucket or the site of your choosing and insert the IMG code.

or get a paid subscription.

nice write up by the way! :thumbsup:
 

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Let me start by saying that I am not an audiophile. A decent sounding, stock stereo is all I need. My 03 TJ came with a blown sub. Not that I need a subwoofer, but since it's there I'd at least like it to work.

I found GCJoe's TJ Factory Sub Replacement thread and thought for $19.35 shipped, I'd give the Pyramid 6 1/2 subwoofer from Parts Express a try. I took some pictures as I installed it and thought I'd post them here.

It's a simple project that took me less than an hour to complete. That includes taking pictures.

While I used a cheapie sub, I suppose this would work for any sub you might try to install.

Here's a picture of the replacement subwoofer. Looks impressive.:hahaha:


Start by removing the rubber liner from the front cup holder. Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt.


Next, remove the rubber liner from the rear cupholder. Use a t30 Apex to remove the bolts. You can now lift up your center console.


Next is the electrical husk. Usually they have a red lock on them that you have to click over first. My center console had been removed a number of times by the previous owner. I don't see the red lock, so I'm thinking he broke it. Oh well, no matter. To separate the husk, push down on the tab with a small screwdriver and pull the two halves apart. Yours may look different for a different year Wrangler, but the idea is the same.


Now, lay your console on the workbench upside down. There are two gold brackets, one on the front and one on the rear or the sub enclosure. If you look, you notice that there are push nuts holding these brackets to the enclosure. You need to remove these push nuts without destroying them.

Front push nut.


Rear push nut.


Using a very small flat blade screwdriver, gently open the "teeth" of the push nuts. Do this by carefully prying between the teeth of the push nut and the plastic bolt that they are attached to. You don't need to open them much and you don't need to bend all of them. Once you've pried a few of them open, use a pair of needlenose pliers to remove them.

After you get the push nuts off, use the needle nose plier to push the teeth of the nut back down into place. Basically you are going to flatten the push nut. Well, not completely flat. You want to move the teeth back just enough so when you reinstall the push nuts they will grab on the bolt again. This will make sense when we put everything back together.


Lay the console on it's side and remove these three phillips screws. You can now slide the enclosure out of the bottom of the console.


Remove the four Apex screws that hold the sub in place. They are size t15. Then, break the seal between the sub and the enclose by gently prying with a screwdriver. Remove the factory sub from the enclosure.
........................
 

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This half moon shaped do-hickey is what prevents your new speaker from sitting flush with the enclosure. Use a grinder, dremel, sandpaper, etc... to remove enough of it to allow your new sub to sit flush against the enclosure.


I used GCJoes suggestion for wiring the sub, and hooked up grey + and black -. Also, notice in the above picture that I taped up the unused wires and then taped them to the harness.

Then, set the new sub in the enclose and center it between the old speaker mounting holes. Use a 3/32 drill bit, gently drill a new hole to mount the speaker. CAREFULLY install the one sub mounting screw. Continue to drill and install the other three screws. Remember this is plastic. All you need to do is install them hand tight. Any more and you'll strip the plastic. Also, notice how I'm holding my finger against the screw in case the Apex should slip. Don't want to accidentally punch a hole in the new sub!


New sub in, wires routed.


Slip the enclosure back into the console. Line up the plastic bolts that the push nuts go on. Find a small deepwell socket that is large enough to slip over the plastic bolt, but is smaller than the push nut. Set the push nut on the plastic bolt, and with the socket, push the nut down onto the plastic bolt. Hence the name, push nut. :p


Lay the console on it's side and reinstall the three screws by the speaker.

Reconnect the electrical husk, being sure to snap the red lock into place if your husk is so equipped. Reinstall the bolts in both cupholders, along with the rubber liners.


You're done!

Enjoy the mediocre, but cheap new sub.
Ok, I obviously don't know how to post pics.

Mods, a little help please?
Ya, you have to have your time in before you can post images. But they will show up eventually.
 

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so is it better or worse than stock to your ears?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
what stereo are you running this from? factory?
Yup. Like I said, I'm not really into car audio. I just didn't like the idea of have a sub that didn't work.

Good info but if one were to use an aftermarket amp to power the replacement sub what can I do with the factory wiring? Is it connected to anything else?
That's beyond me. :rolleyes:
 

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Took all of 15 minutes outside of modifying the enclosure to make room...about 35 minutes total. Should have been 20, so I've decided to invest in a dremel... ;)

It's not going to rattle the windows, but sounds surprisingly good on an aftermarket head unit with the audio settings adjusted.

Thanks!!!
 

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any help with wiring would be wonderful!

03 TJ here. just purchased a Kicker comp vt sub
What amp? And what sub? If you have the new 6.5" vt sub, you pretty much have to get a new amp. The 08CVT654 is setup for 150W and is a 4-ohm sub. The stock amp is ~75W but only at 1-ohm, raising that to 4-ohms leaves you with roughly 18W which would grossly under power that unit. So which one you got?
 

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ok...just did this.

the stock sub in my 05 was a dual voice coil... it took 2 positives and 2 negatives. this DIY suggests using the gray and black wires. those were both positives in my case. i used the red and black wires, not the gray and brown wires.
 

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Pyramid Subwoofer

Archer,

How does that Pyramid Subwoofer sound? I just ordered one today (2/19/09) Your detailed overview of the console and woofer replacement is awesome, thanks man. Just bought an '04 Limited and the Sub was blown. Couldn't stand it. Jeep wanted $298 for a new one. I about died. That must include the amp, woofer and both front seats. :laugh:

Anyway, just curious about the sound thing. Thanks again. :thumbsup:
 
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