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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found what I belive to be a willys cj3a at my local junkyard and I want to know how much to pay for it. It has no title and the gas tank has been moved to back different seats have been welded into place the grill has been moved forward and the radiator mounts have been moved it looks like some one tried putting larger motor in it. The sides have been reskined and tail gait has been removed iner fenders have been cut smaller and the whole rear end would need redone, and it only has transmission and transfercase. How much would be a good price.
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What is their request?

Scrap price, or are they asking for more?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm getting into metal fabrication so i thought something like this would be a good start. Since there's not a lot left of it I can do a little more to it and if needed haul I to the scrap yard and not fill so bad for destroying a willys jeep
 

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does the stick come with it?
 

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I think if you paid $900, or even $500, and then invested $3K-$4K of your own money, plus a ton of your own labor, you'd have a decent little $2,500 jeep .:unsure:

Hoss
 

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Well Sir,

In 1991 I obtained a 1946 CJ2A that was left to die in a cornfield for many many years.

I had passed him many times in 3 years time, while walking back and forth to my deer stand where a really old feller let me

and my buddy hunt his property..

When I was allowed to purchase him, I gave the old man $100 and I got a pretty much "all there" Jeep, minus the RR brake drum.

Engine/ tranny/ transfer case/ axles/ etc

I knew the body was held together with a 55 gallon drum of Bondo (Totally beyond restoring).

But, I had a vision, in 2 years he was decent and drivable on the road, Now---Today, I really like what he looks like

after many years of tweaking his appearance and running gear.

See me in POST 3 in this link So begins the saga, my 83 CJ5 redo.

If there is any decent original drive train under, I might offer $100 for that one, but I believe you can do better.

If things on another one are better but a bit pricier, just think about how much you might save in the long run of parts/ labor that

you might not have to deal with.

-----JEEPFELLER
 

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Look around for the parts your gonna need and get a $$ total first

I had a cj2a for years and JC Whitney was about the only supplier back then

A running original 4cyl might be hard to come by

those were 6volt if you dive into this go 12v for sure.
 

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That 3A (at least the w/s is 3A) has a stretched nose and a fabbed rear tub. Grill looks like MB or GPW. Seat is not stock (I like the stock seats). That is just what I can see. I definitely wouldn't take that on if it didn't have a title or at least a good serial number plate on the dash. The serial number plates are often missing and if you don't have one or the other, you wouldn't have much.

Prices were crazy on flat fenders 6 months ago and that wouldn't have been a bad deal, but seems like insanity is leveling out.
 

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I would consider it at a lesser price if it had a title. I just went through a "lost title" issue on a Jeep. In the past, I have gotten new titles without issue, but my last one was pretty much impossible. Fortunately it was mechanically sound with 90% of the Jeep there and in good shape and I only paid $750 for it. So I just ended up buying a titled Jeep that was in worse condition and swapping all the parts over. Now I have a running Jeep and a complete spare parts Jeep in my back yard. I actually just used parts off of it yesterday.
 

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One other thing, those came with a 3spd and were not highway speed friendly, I put a brand new crate motor in mine and 55mph was about it.
Great for running around town and hunting trips but not to drive on the highway for hours
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Reading terryhowe post I did some research and it does look like it's a willys mb with a 3a windshield added on at some point. I am working out making a deal on the m38a1 next to it, and just thought the flat fender jeep would be a fun vehicle to practice body work and metal fabrication.
 

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I am guessing that is an MB or GPW but in real rough shape. The way to tell is to get under and see if the frame has a circular crossmember behind the front seats. It was a military mounting for a machine gun etc. Just for parts, with so few parts on there, maybe $500 for breaking

With a title or at least serial number plates it becomes worth something to the MB/GPW fanatics who can buy every part imaginable to rebuild it but need a base. think about $700

With a salvageable frame and axles it becomes more of a proposition. At that point $900 seems almost doable.

I piaid about $3000 for mine working, and have spent about another $2000.

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Another that thinks that MAY have started life as a MB/GPW. But there appears to be very few of the military doodads left if that is the case. If it still has the T84 and the 3/4" intermediate shaft D18, those would be worth something to the g503 crowd. The D23 rear axle has been replaced if it is indeed MB/GPW.

Personally, I don't see a whole lot to work with there. Not even $500 worth. You can still find relatively unmolested flat fenders for $1000. They too are usually a mess. But a whole lot less of a mess than that one.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The owner is basing the price off of the axles, transfer case, and the transmission but the transmission and transfer case as it sits now will not budge and seem to be seized. He is asking 900$ for the m38a1 to the side of it which has a complete working drive train except for starter, carburetor, and the clutch and brake pedal assembly. How much do you thing the mb is worth based off the m38a1. I don't need the transmission or transfercase if it means getting it for cheaper, all I really need is a rolling body to learn fabrication skills. I plan on getting the m38a1 but just think the mb would be fun even if I put a tube frame under it and make it into a crawler. I know to restore the mb is going to cost more than just going and buying one in better shape but I would like to learn to make my own patch panels even if it means it doesn't look original but looks decent. I can always track down a cheap engine and drive train farther down the road.
 
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