Homemade snorkle AND custom intake WITH PICS!
Snorkel AND Custom Intake Home made WITH PICS!
Alright, here is the writeup revised! Total Cost For Intake and Snorkle combined: $227. But the "intake" part isn't really required, just the snorkel was $60.00 for pipe and bends, $77.00 for tip.
I dont see why this couldn't be adapted to work on a carb... A friend of mine has this setup on a chevy 350 carb, just ran some flex hose up to the carb intake, but I havn't had the pleasure of doing it myself lol.
These prices compare to $380.00 for Safari Snork setup which just runs flexhose to your stock box... Or for both snorkle and cold air intake Vollant sells one for $750.00
The Beneifits Of Cold Air...
1.) It completely eliminates the stock "air BOX" which already restricts the flow of air into your engine. As described... its a box... and anyone who has taken physics knows that fluid or gas motion when there are corner's involved is nothing less than a design flaw. The air flows into the stock box and gets diverted into a million different directions because of the corners, the filter is a flat plate meaning more surface area than really needed, and all of the air gets spread out inside the box, then must be "regathered" at the top to enter the engine, al the while taking 90* turns every few seconds.
2.) The orginial intake was behind the left front headlight and was about 3" by 1", hardly any air makes it thorugh and it's got about 6 direction changes before it gets to your engine. I know that "it works" but there are better options.
NOTE: Since installation i've noticed a slight increase in milage, 5 mph on my top end speed, i'm running cooler at the radiator, and the idle is a LOT smoother. As for torque/hp gains, not enough to tell, at least for me...
THE INTAKE:
So let's start with the Custom Intake... I used PVC pieces to box in a 6" K&N "cone" style filter... The filter is 6" long, 6" wide. This design in general doesn't have to be used with a snorkle, you could technically route it anywhere you wanted to using flex hose from Advance/Autozone.
So to start us off we have the unpainted but completed intake, below i've got the parts broken down along with general price range. Forgive the hammer, ruler, and pen, I used those in the picture to show a size comparison... I had to "shorten" most of the connections you see below to shave a couple inches off the entire product, I used a grinder (lol, yep) to trim about 2" off every piece... Since I wont have extreme pressures such as plumbing bearing down on these connections, I only left maybe 2" of overlap between the parts to shorten the unit and the PVC glue I mentioned before bonds by melting the parts together, so "water-tight" isn't an issue between the glued parts.
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The most important part of the whole setup is how the new filter will work... for a filter to function, no air can get past it BEFORE getting filtered, otherwise it's useless. Now luckily the K&N 6" x 6" filter has a rubber "ridge" all the way around it that actually sits PERFECTLY FLUSH with the 6" pipe, when I squish and snap closed the 6" x 4" onto the 6" pipe, it creates a PERFECT sill, I used two buckle clips similar to what you see on tool boxes/takleboxes, then silliconed the connection. There is no way water nor air is getting between the 6" pipe, the rubber "ridge" and the 6" x 4" connection.
So again, the K&N sits inside. I used PVC glue to glue everything together EXCEPT for ONE of the 6" to 4" connections on the intake side so that it can be re-opened to clean filter... I used "buckle" clips from Lowes (cant see in this picture) that clip the two pieces together then siliconed around the edge to prevent leaks.
This is a big friggen filter, it's rated for a ford f450... this was to reduce any resistance what-so-ever from the filter it's self.
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Deciding where she sits...
So since i'm going to be installing this up against a custom snorkel, I decided to mount it along the passanger fender, just behind the hood, the snork will enter the hood and the canaster at this point.
The marks for where i'll be cutting the hole in the hood, along with a chunk of that lip that runs infront of the opening. I will build two brackets to hold the intake box to the fender (you'll see later). I made sure to place it where it wouldn't rest on the intake manifold (which would melt the pvc)
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Oh yes, the irreversible part :2thumbsup: I used a 4" hole saw to perform the cut, i'll be using rubber door sills to tidy up the edges. I made the hole first because the exhaust shop where i'm going to have the snork made will make the bends based off my cut.
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Here's the completed/mounted box... To connect the intake end of the box to the intake manifold I used some 3" flexhose from advance, it's flexible and durable, it sills easily with rubber connections (silliconed just in case).
![]()
I've got two 90* bends comming out of the last PVC connection before the flex hose for the rubber heater hose that goes from the valve cover and another that comes from the old airbox... These are on the filter side of the box to prevent contamination... I epoxied (plastic welded) them in so there wouldn't be a leak and silliconed all joints and connections, then pained over them with black paint so you cant even tell they are silliconed. I used weather stripping on the white rod that runs over the top to prevent vibration, and i'll be replacing the yellow cord with a blue one
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Snorkel
This portion of the project is still in progress... I've got exhaust piping complete but I have to admit the snorkle design and placement was NOT my idea. I'll give credit at the very end of the post!
So I know snorkels are supposed to be run into the fender, but jeeps are also "supposed" to have torque bolts for everything lol, so the entrance via hood is my personal favorite. Now there are a lot of chop shop PVC snorks out there that look like someone threw it together with duct tape... I'm attempting to avoid such a look.
I purchased the pipe from Midas here in East Orlando, and the guy there custom bent the tubing for me to match the body. Took him maybe 20 minutes. I had the hole cut BEFORE buying the pipe so that they could match it up in the shop. In the end it only cost me $60.00 for the entire pipe with bends... Technically you COULD just buy the pipe and run it into the hood, then flex hose it to your stock airbox... but I hate the stock airbox setup , personally...
For the tip to keep the rain out, i've purchased the 3" Safari "ram air" intake tip for the top of the snorkle, its an expensive little devil at $77.00, HOWEVER it doesnt let rain down your snorkel, "how this is done" is specified on the below link, along with the ability to purchase.
Safari*Snorkel*3"*Air...
(Oh and didn't mean to getmyself in the shot lol, but figured it wasn't worth editing myself out)
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Here is the Safari tip that I will be using (it fits 3" OD piping...)
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AND FINALLY... The completed, painted, shortened snork setup...
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Thanks for taking a look, PM me for any questions/concerns...
CREDITS: I got the snorkel idea from Jeep Forum from YJake, and Fyrdriver and his awsome writeup: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/homemade-jeep-snorkel-w-pics-794294/ , HOWEVER, the intake Idea I thought up on my own, there may be others like it, but none that I have viewed... I spent a couple hours in lowes figuring this out.
Questions/comments/concerns are welcome. (hope the pictures worked this time)
Alright, here is the writeup revised! Total Cost For Intake and Snorkle combined: $227. But the "intake" part isn't really required, just the snorkel was $60.00 for pipe and bends, $77.00 for tip.
I dont see why this couldn't be adapted to work on a carb... A friend of mine has this setup on a chevy 350 carb, just ran some flex hose up to the carb intake, but I havn't had the pleasure of doing it myself lol.
These prices compare to $380.00 for Safari Snork setup which just runs flexhose to your stock box... Or for both snorkle and cold air intake Vollant sells one for $750.00
The Beneifits Of Cold Air...
1.) It completely eliminates the stock "air BOX" which already restricts the flow of air into your engine. As described... its a box... and anyone who has taken physics knows that fluid or gas motion when there are corner's involved is nothing less than a design flaw. The air flows into the stock box and gets diverted into a million different directions because of the corners, the filter is a flat plate meaning more surface area than really needed, and all of the air gets spread out inside the box, then must be "regathered" at the top to enter the engine, al the while taking 90* turns every few seconds.
2.) The orginial intake was behind the left front headlight and was about 3" by 1", hardly any air makes it thorugh and it's got about 6 direction changes before it gets to your engine. I know that "it works" but there are better options.
NOTE: Since installation i've noticed a slight increase in milage, 5 mph on my top end speed, i'm running cooler at the radiator, and the idle is a LOT smoother. As for torque/hp gains, not enough to tell, at least for me...
THE INTAKE:
So let's start with the Custom Intake... I used PVC pieces to box in a 6" K&N "cone" style filter... The filter is 6" long, 6" wide. This design in general doesn't have to be used with a snorkle, you could technically route it anywhere you wanted to using flex hose from Advance/Autozone.
So to start us off we have the unpainted but completed intake, below i've got the parts broken down along with general price range. Forgive the hammer, ruler, and pen, I used those in the picture to show a size comparison... I had to "shorten" most of the connections you see below to shave a couple inches off the entire product, I used a grinder (lol, yep) to trim about 2" off every piece... Since I wont have extreme pressures such as plumbing bearing down on these connections, I only left maybe 2" of overlap between the parts to shorten the unit and the PVC glue I mentioned before bonds by melting the parts together, so "water-tight" isn't an issue between the glued parts.
The most important part of the whole setup is how the new filter will work... for a filter to function, no air can get past it BEFORE getting filtered, otherwise it's useless. Now luckily the K&N 6" x 6" filter has a rubber "ridge" all the way around it that actually sits PERFECTLY FLUSH with the 6" pipe, when I squish and snap closed the 6" x 4" onto the 6" pipe, it creates a PERFECT sill, I used two buckle clips similar to what you see on tool boxes/takleboxes, then silliconed the connection. There is no way water nor air is getting between the 6" pipe, the rubber "ridge" and the 6" x 4" connection.
So again, the K&N sits inside. I used PVC glue to glue everything together EXCEPT for ONE of the 6" to 4" connections on the intake side so that it can be re-opened to clean filter... I used "buckle" clips from Lowes (cant see in this picture) that clip the two pieces together then siliconed around the edge to prevent leaks.
This is a big friggen filter, it's rated for a ford f450... this was to reduce any resistance what-so-ever from the filter it's self.
Deciding where she sits...
So since i'm going to be installing this up against a custom snorkel, I decided to mount it along the passanger fender, just behind the hood, the snork will enter the hood and the canaster at this point.
The marks for where i'll be cutting the hole in the hood, along with a chunk of that lip that runs infront of the opening. I will build two brackets to hold the intake box to the fender (you'll see later). I made sure to place it where it wouldn't rest on the intake manifold (which would melt the pvc)
Oh yes, the irreversible part :2thumbsup: I used a 4" hole saw to perform the cut, i'll be using rubber door sills to tidy up the edges. I made the hole first because the exhaust shop where i'm going to have the snork made will make the bends based off my cut.
Here's the completed/mounted box... To connect the intake end of the box to the intake manifold I used some 3" flexhose from advance, it's flexible and durable, it sills easily with rubber connections (silliconed just in case).
I've got two 90* bends comming out of the last PVC connection before the flex hose for the rubber heater hose that goes from the valve cover and another that comes from the old airbox... These are on the filter side of the box to prevent contamination... I epoxied (plastic welded) them in so there wouldn't be a leak and silliconed all joints and connections, then pained over them with black paint so you cant even tell they are silliconed. I used weather stripping on the white rod that runs over the top to prevent vibration, and i'll be replacing the yellow cord with a blue one
Snorkel
This portion of the project is still in progress... I've got exhaust piping complete but I have to admit the snorkle design and placement was NOT my idea. I'll give credit at the very end of the post!
So I know snorkels are supposed to be run into the fender, but jeeps are also "supposed" to have torque bolts for everything lol, so the entrance via hood is my personal favorite. Now there are a lot of chop shop PVC snorks out there that look like someone threw it together with duct tape... I'm attempting to avoid such a look.
I purchased the pipe from Midas here in East Orlando, and the guy there custom bent the tubing for me to match the body. Took him maybe 20 minutes. I had the hole cut BEFORE buying the pipe so that they could match it up in the shop. In the end it only cost me $60.00 for the entire pipe with bends... Technically you COULD just buy the pipe and run it into the hood, then flex hose it to your stock airbox... but I hate the stock airbox setup
, personally...For the tip to keep the rain out, i've purchased the 3" Safari "ram air" intake tip for the top of the snorkle, its an expensive little devil at $77.00, HOWEVER it doesnt let rain down your snorkel, "how this is done" is specified on the below link, along with the ability to purchase.
Safari*Snorkel*3"*Air...
(Oh and didn't mean to getmyself in the shot lol, but figured it wasn't worth editing myself out)
Here is the Safari tip that I will be using (it fits 3" OD piping...)
AND FINALLY... The completed, painted, shortened snork setup...
Thanks for taking a look, PM me for any questions/concerns...
CREDITS: I got the snorkel idea from Jeep Forum from YJake, and Fyrdriver and his awsome writeup: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/homemade-jeep-snorkel-w-pics-794294/ , HOWEVER, the intake Idea I thought up on my own, there may be others like it, but none that I have viewed... I spent a couple hours in lowes figuring this out.
Questions/comments/concerns are welcome. (hope the pictures worked this time)
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
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lol sorry they arn't working, i'll see if I can figure it out... I hate this stupid camera that I used!
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upload the pics onto your computer, then to an image hosting site like photobucket, then copy the IMG tags to your post. :thumbsup:
:tea:
Brandon
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2,681 Posts
The inline K&N has a rubber lip all the way around it that actually sits perfectly flush with the 6" PVC and holds it's self in place, the rubber lip is then squished air tight around the lip of the 6" tube whenever the 6 to 4" connection is put in place, I have 3 clamps/latches which pull the 6 to 4 cap onto the rubber rim and it's all sunk inside that 6 to 4 cap, once I organize this thing I'll get a pic on here of how it sits.
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5,626 Posts
Pretty cool, I like it a lot. Looks durable and effective.
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Okay cool. By the way, with the hole cut, your jeep says 'wrongler' like Brandon_YJ's jeep :laugh:
:tea:
Brandon
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5,626 Posts
The only thing I would try to improve on is that flex hose when time allows. Try to find something more form fitted and smooth flowing for the air intake, with hose clamps to secure it. Other than that it is excellent.
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2,681 Posts
The flexhose fit really well but I didn't trust it lol so that's why it's silliconed but i'll definatly keep an eye out for a more trustworthy fitting.
Thanks for the input fellas lol like I said I'll get this thing detailed tonight for anyone who may have been interested in making one, it was $250.00 for everything including the k&n, not bad compared to the $750.00 vollant snork + cold air intake lol.
Thanks for the input fellas lol like I said I'll get this thing detailed tonight for anyone who may have been interested in making one, it was $250.00 for everything including the k&n, not bad compared to the $750.00 vollant snork + cold air intake lol.
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2,681 Posts
Yeah I definatly got the exhaust through the hood idea from you and that other snorkle writeup which I still got to give credit to lol, but I couldn't stand the idea of using that stock box lol and I like 2+ inches of opening from roof to intake lol without a million 90's bends throughout... Anyway yeah I can't wait to get it done.
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i now name your jeep.... WRONGLER.
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Lol yeah I was thinking about scratching the letters off but I'm still debating on the personality of it lol.
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leave em on. paint might be faded behind it anyways.
the other side still says wrangler right? lol
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2,301 Posts
That looks good and will prolly really be functional. I think it might kill some of your bottom end tho since its a sealled system and it going to be a long pull. my snorkel had a second port before the snorkel that i could just cap when i need the snorkel to prevent it having to pull so far and killing my gas mileage anymore.
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2,681 Posts
Yeah I was definatly worried about that lol which is why I used 3" tubing throughout the entire system along with a filter big enough to feed a diesel truck (rated for ford f450) lol, so all the gaps should be big enough to limit this unlike the snorks that run to the fender then use a mile long string of flexhose speghetti going every which way just to get to the stock airbox lol... I made the flow go strait from the snork to the intake with only one bend so this should (cough cough) keep that drag to a minimum lol.
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