Homemade Jeep Snorkel w/pics
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I bought 3" exhaust pipe from Summit Racing. It was 1 U bend or 180 degree bend and 1 length of straight pipe. With the 180 piece I cut it right in half making the 90 to go into the hood. With the other end I cut that to about (I'm guessing) 70 degrees or the angle of the windsheild. The straight pipe was for the extension to the ARB top. The thickness was 16 gauge if I'm not mistaken, but it will say when you look up the parts on the Summit website.
For everyone whos asking about the rest, later this week when I get to the underhood plumbing I will post pics.
For everyone whos asking about the rest, later this week when I get to the underhood plumbing I will post pics.
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Very cool....for those that know the differences better....can a snorkel kit, bought or homemade go through the hood vs. the fender on a TJ?
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I know I've already posted, but I love the look of going through the hood, I've wondered why the aftermarket goes through the hood on JK's and not TJ's. I really like this and I will probably do something like this on my TJ, there would be some fiddling to do with the antenna on a TJ, but still could work.
This is the best homemade snorkel I have seen! Good job! Was the exhaust pipe you bough stainless steel? If not, will regular pipe rust through pretty quick? Looks great, and I too would like to see the underhood pics! Im at a toss up on either doing the homemade snorkel or a hummer intake.
OK I'll try to answer all the above questions.
Snorkel top here, $77.50
http://www.torasport.com/store/product.php?productid=558&cat=0&page=2
Not sure on the TJ but I don't know why the hood style wouldn't work. I did like the JK hood style and like I stated before my hood was toast anyways so it seemed logical. I had to use the drivers side because my antenna would have interfered. In following the body lines, removing it would have left a hole.
I will post a pic of the windsheild bracket tomm.(on duty today).
As far as the pipe goes, I did not pick stainless because of welding concerns. But the pipe I used is aluminized steel. I have an aluminized flowmaster exhaust on my 69 Camaro that shows not a speck of rust after about 8 years. I also painted the inside as far as the sprayer would go and the outside is the same krylon I used on my homemade bumpers. It seems to hold up pretty well. I'm sure the rest of the Jeep will fall apart before this does.
Lastly someone asked about water inside. The good thing about the ARB top is the design allows the water to drain out the top not run down the snorkel. The pipe extends up into the top so when water gets in it runs to the outside of the pipe and out little drain holes in the plastic.
Snorkel top here, $77.50
http://www.torasport.com/store/product.php?productid=558&cat=0&page=2
Not sure on the TJ but I don't know why the hood style wouldn't work. I did like the JK hood style and like I stated before my hood was toast anyways so it seemed logical. I had to use the drivers side because my antenna would have interfered. In following the body lines, removing it would have left a hole.
I will post a pic of the windsheild bracket tomm.(on duty today).
As far as the pipe goes, I did not pick stainless because of welding concerns. But the pipe I used is aluminized steel. I have an aluminized flowmaster exhaust on my 69 Camaro that shows not a speck of rust after about 8 years. I also painted the inside as far as the sprayer would go and the outside is the same krylon I used on my homemade bumpers. It seems to hold up pretty well. I'm sure the rest of the Jeep will fall apart before this does.
Lastly someone asked about water inside. The good thing about the ARB top is the design allows the water to drain out the top not run down the snorkel. The pipe extends up into the top so when water gets in it runs to the outside of the pipe and out little drain holes in the plastic.
Summit racing U bend
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-622005/
Straight pipe
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-640030/
Looks like they are both 16 gauge.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-622005/
Straight pipe
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-640030/
Looks like they are both 16 gauge.
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I think you need to look at the pics again. The hood is notched and closes over the tube, the tube doesn't run through the hood.
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374 Posts
Looks great! Nice job.
I'd do smooth wall tubing throughout. That dryer vent stuff probably isn't going to flow too well because of the corrugation. You'll pick up a few HP due to the cool air effect, you might as well make it flow good too.
Can you relocate the air box to the drivers side and run the pipe straight into it?
I'd do smooth wall tubing throughout. That dryer vent stuff probably isn't going to flow too well because of the corrugation. You'll pick up a few HP due to the cool air effect, you might as well make it flow good too.
Good idea, tommorrow I'm going to home depot to see what type of tubing I can get. Obviously I'm limited to something that uses a 3"ID because my snorkel pipe is 3"OD. With whatever I go with, the good news is where the 90 is that goes into the hood its not even a foot away, if I use the drivers side of the airbox and plug the stock inlet. I doubt it will matter to my 4 banger. lol
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Not necessarily. I did a CAI on a car that used PVC pipe. I was able to joint two pieces with a 3" OD by using a rubber join that had a 3" ID.
Came out pretty nice actually. I was able to scuff it good with 600 grit, prime and paint with Krylon and the finish looked good for years.
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