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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I've been trying to use the downtime for the Jeep projects(getting a ton of rain down here). Plus we don't have the nice terrain most of you all do just mud and swamps. So I just got in from making my snorkel. I couldn't justify the almost $400 bucks for the safari snorkle so I welded up 3" exhaust pipe and put on the ARB top.
One 3" U bend $24
One straight pipe $20
ARB snorkle top $ 77
Total $121
All I have left to do is connect it to my stock airbox with some dryer vent tube from Home Depot and some additional waterproofing under the hood.

Tried to keep it low profile for tree branches and wanted it to match the body line and windshield angle. Also I went through the hood because my hood is already dented and didn't want to ruin a good fender.

How's it look?:cheers2:


 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks all for the positive feedback.
I did learn a couple things in doing this. You mentioned the joints or seams between the pipe. If its not cut perfectly the seams dont line up. Meaning if you don't cut through the apex of the bend exactly you will be trying to match an oval to a circle. I used a miter saw so it came out pretty close. I then used a flap disc on my grinder to dress the welds, I could have gotten them a little more flush but did not want to remove too much material for strength reasons.
The other thing is the u shaped notch in the hood. Since the hood is hinged on top it comes forward about 1 1/2 inches just in the distance to clear the 3" pipe. So in retrospect I should have gotten a little closer with my cutout on the rear side of the u.
Lastly, its held to the windshield using the two factory holes on the outside of the top hinge. I cut a pc. of 1/8 by IIRC 2 1/2 by the length of the hinge and welded it to the pipe length wise. I think you can see it in one of the pics(painted black with two stainless screws). It kept the pipe the perfect distance from the windshield frame. I also added an L shaped bracket to the inner fenderwell under the hood. Its solid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks guys.
Honestly, I just finished the outer part, its not hooked up to the airbox yet, but I plan to use aluminum flexible 3" dryer vent tube. First I going to see if I can use the stock inlet spot. If not the side of the box right where the new pipe dumps into will be my next choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I bought 3" exhaust pipe from Summit Racing. It was 1 U bend or 180 degree bend and 1 length of straight pipe. With the 180 piece I cut it right in half making the 90 to go into the hood. With the other end I cut that to about (I'm guessing) 70 degrees or the angle of the windsheild. The straight pipe was for the extension to the ARB top. The thickness was 16 gauge if I'm not mistaken, but it will say when you look up the parts on the Summit website.

For everyone whos asking about the rest, later this week when I get to the underhood plumbing I will post pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
OK I'll try to answer all the above questions.

Snorkel top here, $77.50
http://www.torasport.com/store/product.php?productid=558&cat=0&page=2

Not sure on the TJ but I don't know why the hood style wouldn't work. I did like the JK hood style and like I stated before my hood was toast anyways so it seemed logical. I had to use the drivers side because my antenna would have interfered. In following the body lines, removing it would have left a hole.

I will post a pic of the windsheild bracket tomm.(on duty today).

As far as the pipe goes, I did not pick stainless because of welding concerns. But the pipe I used is aluminized steel. I have an aluminized flowmaster exhaust on my 69 Camaro that shows not a speck of rust after about 8 years. I also painted the inside as far as the sprayer would go and the outside is the same krylon I used on my homemade bumpers. It seems to hold up pretty well. I'm sure the rest of the Jeep will fall apart before this does.

Lastly someone asked about water inside. The good thing about the ARB top is the design allows the water to drain out the top not run down the snorkel. The pipe extends up into the top so when water gets in it runs to the outside of the pipe and out little drain holes in the plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Good idea, tommorrow I'm going to home depot to see what type of tubing I can get. Obviously I'm limited to something that uses a 3"ID because my snorkel pipe is 3"OD. With whatever I go with, the good news is where the 90 is that goes into the hood its not even a foot away, if I use the drivers side of the airbox and plug the stock inlet. I doubt it will matter to my 4 banger. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I'm sitting here geting ready to hit the "confirm order" button on the websites to order the supplies for this mod but need the rest of the pictures so I can make sure I do it right. :D
OK, OK, keep your pants on! JK:D

Heres the bracket to windshield. Simply a piece of flat stock cut to the shape of the factory hinge then drilled. I would use longer screws though the factory ones were a little short to really crank down on. I had these stainless ones left over from some old mirror relocation kit I pulled off.



Heres one of the turn in, there is an L bracket on the backside to the inner fenderwell.
Also you can see here where I had to notch the top lip of the fender.(not really visible when the hood is closed) And the pics are deceiving the snorkel does not touch the body in any place but the two mounts, although its only about 1/8 inch away, so there is no worry about vibration or noise.


As far as the underhood goes I heading over to home depot to see what they have but this is what I found so far. The stock inlet will fit a 2" pvc pipe EXACTLY. I got this gradual bent one. I know some people will say this is a restriction but remember how small the restricters were in your airbox. Mine seemed about an inch maybe an inch and a half. If I can plumb it using 3" all the way I might just go that route...
Stay tuned.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
That is very professional looking work there. I've been wanting a snorkel for my YJ also but for one, the ARB one is WAY overpriced. Two, the 3" pipe would be too restricting for my engine since my MAF is about 5" and I'm running a short 4" tube to the filter. I don't want to choke the engine anymore than that. I'd love to build one of these but the ARB top diameter would be too small I think. Maybe I should do a dual intake set-up :fish: Too bad no one makes a snorkel for a V8 swapped Jeep since it is a common thing to do.

Dave :thumbsup:
ARB has a 3 and a 3.5" top. Any 4 or 6 cyl will be fine with a 3" intake, even mild V8's, but I figured if I ever get around to a V8 I could run one on the other side to match.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Are you worried about denting the exaust tube if you rub/hit a tree or something? I would imagine the arb plastic would bend back....but am not sure about that. yours looks clean though. I like the hood inlet
You would be suprised how heavy the tubing is. Honestly I think if I hit something that hard it would shear the bolts holding it off first or bend the brackets. Where I ride thats not a problem either.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
OK, heres the update for those who were waiting to see the underhood connection.
Went to pepboys and got this 3" flexible intake tube (Spectre #8741), had a 90 degree gradual bend 2 inch ID PVC elbow. Cleaned up the edge on the elbow and siliconed it. It just barely fits into the stock airbox. The flex hose has a molded in 3" coupling and slips over the metal exhaust pipe perfectly. The other end I used silicone and a hose clamp to hold the end over the outside of the elbow.
I was going to run a hard line to the box, but it really needs a flexible connection for vibration. The airbox is designed to move so thats why I went this way.
Lastly, I plan on leaving the end at the exhaust pipe disconnected (because its very accessible)for normal driving and when I do plan to offroad it just hook it up.
Hopefully this helps!

 

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
The simple answer is about 13.5 inches of straight pipe before either side starts to bend at all.

Just out of curiosity do you have or have access to a mandrel bender? If not the bends won't fit together to weld, you would have to bend it in one continuous piece. Not to mention how tight of a bend it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
In addition to my airbox being on the drivers side my main concern was the antenna conflict on my pass side. I also thought it would increase visibility to have it away from my field of vision and on the pass side. But the way its mounted it is almost invisible from inside except for a little bit of the ARB top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
How long is this total, including bends? I want to do this with one solid piece, what length should I use?
Its about 58 inches, the reason I say about is because depending on where you measure inside or outside it differs. I took the longest route to make sure you would have enough. Leave yourself a little extra on both ends so you have some adjustablilty. You can always cut it off after your final fitment.
Also as I stated before unless you know of a place that can mandrel bend it for you, the tubing will have kinks in it, thats why I welded mine up.
Hope this helps, good luck.:cheers2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Just to let everyone know I have pulled mine apart twice after driving in the rain and due to the ARB top design I have found no water at all in the system. Also the way the flex tubing is placed the water would collect there first. Then if you collected that much water to actually bypass that area you would have to fill the volume of the airbox to the level of the exit tube to the TB. I'm guessing but I think you would have to take in about 4 gallons of water, not going to happen...
 
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