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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, Im a new member and first time owner of a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 5.7 hemi.

Im planning a trip to moab next year and i picked up this jeep to mod for the trip.

Im learning the lift market is scarce since superlift no longer produces their 4” kit. I called superlift today and the tech guy stated that AEV (vendor) wanted too much money to produce the EGR boxes making their kits too expensive. EGR being the electronic geometry recalibration box. Something to do with controlling when the ESP warning lights come on.

Anyway, to my questions
1) does anyone know where a superlift 4” kit can be purchased? It was stated to me that they stopped producing these in April of this year. part #k864

2) Will the OME lift with hd springs clear a 285/70/17 tire?

3) I have the flashpaq F5 (3874)and can code new tire size, is this enough to control any computer issues that might be encountered?

4) did i make a mistake with this model grand cherokee? Im beginning to wonder.

Thanks for any input.
And just for the record, ive been searching and reading for 2 weeks now before posting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think his is based from the superlift kit, correct?
My questions involve purchasing that kit but i cant find any.
 

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1) no. i have the EGR and would love to find the rest of the kit, if you find anyone with them in a warehouse lmk, lots of people would jump on that
2) yes, but there is little to no suspension down travel due to the ridiculous spring rates. i am on 285/70R17s on quadratec wheels (wider and right offset) with the OME HD plus the normal odd and ends. it fits the big tires and has plenty of lift but otherwise it sucks, next to no articulation and ride quality is terrible.
3) no. without the EGR the ESP kicks in pretty much constantly, even on stock wheels/tires. it's not just lights turning on, the ESP activates in the middle of turns, cuts the throttle and causes lots of dangerous understeer. not fun on exit ramps. apparently it's worst on 2005s, your 2006 may be a bit better and at least has a mode where you can turn the ESP off, which 2005s lack. but driving around with the ESP turned off neuters the 4WD system's capabilities.
4) maybe. ;) now that they're all old cheap and clapped out, i keep waiting for people to start beating the **** out of them like what happened to all the ZJs and the aftermarket support to improve, but it's just not happening. it certainly doesn't help when some of the few vendors we had are abandoning the platform.
 

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Well even at that size you can run its not much, for all the lifting, issues. perhaps a Xj or Zj would be better for intended use and building it up. I run with a Zj that has linked rear, home brewed and its on 35s. walked through the rubicon well. he has a Yj though that is on 42s all linked stretched etc.etc. but not very street friendly. The Zj can get him there and back. The Yj is for when it gets serious...

the white Zj and the blue one left of me in the yellow JKR on the Rubicon trail this past June. He did say he had wished he brought the Yj as few places he did go around but so did a lot of Rubicon jeeps that could do it..Side note that blue one ripped a track bar off the frame day and half in. Luck for him the Zj a is top mechanic can weld with batteries and cables.......
 

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I disagree with @acabtp, but I suppose it all depends on your expectations.

I had a fully built 2006 Wrangler LJ Rubicon on 35's with a 4" short arm lift. I could (and did) comfortably tackle trails like the Rubicon. It had fantastic articulation and with front and rear lockers, and full armor, I could go anywhere. Then came "Hope and Change" and the economy crashed in 2007 and I was left with a 1998 Montero. That whole rig cost less than just the tires on my Ruby, but it was tough and durable, with a rear locker and could fit 33" tires in stock trim. However, compared to the Ruby, my Montero had zero flex, and simply going over a curb would mean lifting a tire in the front (IFS). It had so much body yaw on rough trails that passengers would get sea sick, and there simple trails (like Cleghorn) that some pitchy sections that I just didn't enjoy doing in the Montero.

Now I am in 2005 WK (might a 2006, I can't remember!). I put the OME HD lift on it, and got just a tad over 3" net lift, and I run 285/70/17 Falkien Wildpeak AT3's. On Gladiator Rubicon wheels, I needed to use 1.5" wheel spacers. I also had to do the pinch weld mod in the front, and roll the fenders in the rear, and I also did a custom bump stop arrangement to extend the bumpstops several inches over stock. This combination helps a lot, though I still rub a little bit on full stuff (in the rear)

I personally feel that my WK drives great on the street, and I often drive it instead of my Acura MDX for driving around town. I have no problems on long trips either. Its quiet and comfortable on the freeway.

More importantly, thanks to QuadDrive II, this thing is incredible Offroad. The locking front and rear diffs compensate for any lack of flex in the front, and I have a wide range of articulation in the rear. I am an experienced off roader, and this set up provides tremendous capability and builds a lot of confidence. Its quite the billygoat in the rocks and handles off camber and steep situations just fine. I don't have many photos of it, because I am usually the camera guy shooting other rigs around me, but here are is one shot from the rear:


Here is a video of small little warm up hill. This was before I fitted the extended bumpstops and rolled the fenders in the rear, but it gives you a good idea of the relative stiffness of the OME HD lift and amount of flex allowed in its 3" lift configuration
http://instagr.am/p/CPhD3XtnIs4/
Many people running 33" find it useful to run JBA upper control arms that have a bit more length, or using an MOOG offset upper balljoint, either approach used to gain a bit more droop out of the front, but I am just running stock and its okay. However, I personally think the next size down in tires (275/70/17 - 32" verses 33") is the sweet spot, all things considered, but 33" certainly can and do work. If I were going to buy new tires, I would drop down to 275's.

Here is how mine sits today:
 

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another problem I've seen with any lift on a WK is limited down travel of the lca's. Since the lca is at an increased angle with a lift, the lca hits the stops at the mounting bolts on the crossmember limiting the down travel. You get the lift but wind up with less suspension travel
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I disagree with @acabtp, but I suppose it all depends on your expectations.

I had a fully built 2006 Wrangler LJ Rubicon on 35's with a 4" short arm lift. I could (and did) comfortably tackle trails like the Rubicon. It had fantastic articulation and with front and rear lockers, and full armor, I could go anywhere. Then came "Hope and Change" and the economy crashed in 2007 and I was left with a 1998 Montero. That whole rig cost less than just the tires on my Ruby, but it was tough and durable, with a rear locker and could fit 33" tires in stock trim. However, compared to the Ruby, my Montero had zero flex, and simply going over a curb would mean lifting a tire in the front (IFS). It had so much body yaw on rough trails that passengers would get sea sick, and there simple trails (like Cleghorn) that some pitchy sections that I just didn't enjoy doing in the Montero.

Now I am in 2005 WK (might a 2006, I can't remember!). I put the OME HD lift on it, and got just a tad over 3" net lift, and I run 285/70/17 Falkien Wildpeak AT3's. On Gladiator Rubicon wheels, I needed to use 1.5" wheel spacers. I also had to do the pinch weld mod in the front, and roll the fenders in the rear, and I also did a custom bump stop arrangement to extend the bumpstops several inches over stock. This combination helps a lot, though I still rub a little bit on full stuff (in the rear)

I personally feel that my WK drives great on the street, and I often drive it instead of my Acura MDX for driving around town. I have no problems on long trips either. Its quiet and comfortable on the freeway.

More importantly, thanks to QuadDrive II, this thing is incredible Offroad. The locking front and rear diffs compensate for any lack of flex in the front, and I have a wide range of articulation in the rear. I am an experienced off roader, and this set up provides tremendous capability and builds a lot of confidence. Its quite the billygoat in the rocks and handles off camber and steep situations just fine. I don't have many photos of it, because I am usually the camera guy shooting other rigs around me, but here are is one shot from the rear:


Here is a video of small little warm up hill. This was before I fitted the extended bumpstops and rolled the fenders in the rear, but it gives you a good idea of the relative stiffness of the OME HD lift and amount of flex allowed in its 3" lift configuration
http://instagr.am/p/CPhD3XtnIs4/
Many people running 33" find it useful to run JBA upper control arms that have a bit more length, or using an MOOG offset upper balljoint, either approach used to gain a bit more droop out of the front, but I am just running stock and its okay. However, I personally think the next size down in tires (275/70/17 - 32" verses 33") is the sweet spot, all things considered, but 33" certainly can and do work. If I were going to buy new tires, I would drop down to 275's.

Here is how mine sits today:
Thanks for the informative post with pics and video. Great information to see.
I too thought the sweet spit tire size was the 275 vs 285, i found the 285 was so much cheaper so i bought those. I haven't put them on yet though.

Do you have any issues with the ESP kicking in driving normal driving?
 

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Thanks for the informative post with pics and video. Great information to see.
I too thought the sweet spit tire size was the 275 vs 285, i found the 285 was so much cheaper so i bought those. I haven't put them on yet though.

Do you have any issues with the ESP kicking in driving normal driving?
No I haven't, not even on chattering dirt roads. Also, I confirmed I have a 2006. Can't believe I couldn't remember that!
 

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another problem I've seen with any lift on a WK is limited down travel of the lca's. Since the lca is at an increased angle with a lift, the lca hits the stops at the mounting bolts on the crossmember limiting the down travel. You get the lift but wind up with less suspension travel
Yeap, no way around the inherent limitations of IFS. If you want max articulation in an SUV body, the prior generation WJ is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
1) no. i have the EGR and would love to find the rest of the kit, if you find anyone with them in a warehouse lmk, lots of people would jump on that
2) yes, but there is little to no suspension down travel due to the ridiculous spring rates. i am on 285/70R17s on quadratec wheels (wider and right offset) with the OME HD plus the normal odd and ends. it fits the big tires and has plenty of lift but otherwise it sucks, next to no articulation and ride quality is terrible.
3) no. without the EGR the ESP kicks in pretty much constantly, even on stock wheels/tires. it's not just lights turning on, the ESP activates in the middle of turns, cuts the throttle and causes lots of dangerous understeer. not fun on exit ramps. apparently it's worst on 2005s, your 2006 may be a bit better and at least has a mode where you can turn the ESP off, which 2005s lack. but driving around with the ESP turned off neuters the 4WD system's capabilities.
4) maybe. ;) now that they're all old cheap and clapped out, i keep waiting for people to start beating the **** out of them like what happened to all the ZJs and the aftermarket support to improve, but it's just not happening. it certainly doesn't help when some of the few vendors we had are abandoning the platform.
Hey,
Curious if you have any interest in selling the aev module? I scored a superlift kit from a salvaged jeep but no box in it?! its an 06, didnt the lifts all come with that box?

Anyway, if you’re interested….let me know.

You can txt me at 573-330-4347
 

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Hey,
Curious if you have any interest in selling the aev module? I scored a superlift kit from a salvaged jeep but no box in it?! its an 06, didnt the lifts all come with that box?

Anyway, if you’re interested….let me know.

You can txt me at 573-330-4347
Sorry bud! My 2005 with a maxed out OME is undrivable without it

On the other hand, if you end up wanting to sell the steering knuckles and diff drop stuff from the salvaged superlift lmk 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry bud! My 2005 with a maxed out OME is undrivable without it

On the other hand, if you end up wanting to sell the steering knuckles and diff drop stuff from the salvaged superlift lmk 👍
i might if i cant locate a box.
what do you think the parts would be worth?
 

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Do you have any issues with the ESP kicking in driving normal driving?
Dean, slight update. I went snow wheeling this weekend and the traction control started kicking in quite a lot. It made me realize that all my other wheeling was in low range which I think disables it. I ran a few trails the other day in normal high range all wheel drive and yeah, felt the traction control kick in on corners and stuff. it was never very much, but noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dean, slight update. I went snow wheeling this weekend and the traction control started kicking in quite a lot. It made me realize that all my other wheeling was in low range which I think disables it. I ran a few trails the other day in normal high range all wheel drive and yeah, felt the traction control kick in on corners and stuff. it was never very much, but noticeable.
Hey, thx for the update. I had been reading others saying the same thing so it makes sense i guess.
 

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Dean, slight update. I went snow wheeling this weekend and the traction control started kicking in quite a lot. It made me realize that all my other wheeling was in low range which I think disables it. I ran a few trails the other day in normal high range all wheel drive and yeah, felt the traction control kick in on corners and stuff. it was never very much, but noticeable.
Yeah...traction control is disabled in low range. My WK actually lights up and tells me that when I go into low range.
 

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You can long press to turn off traction control in 4 high
 
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