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My Reality Check Bounced
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Yeah, any large block type tires will cup and, once started, there is no going back short of shaving them. Rotating every 5k is a good strategy to prevent cupping.
 

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Just traded my 2015 for a 2019.
Had almost 90k on the 2015 - was starting to have issues.
Under warranty, they replaced the Radio - it was having issues about the 2nd yr we owned it. The replacement was starting to have issues also; wrong roads, GPS showing no highway that had been there for years.
Had waterpump replaced around 80k miles - covered under the extended warranty by Jeep for this particular issue.
Front Right tire sense was acting up
Engine light came on and vehicle would not start - all issues disappeared after a day.
Otherwise the 2015 was a very good jeep, just needed something new.
 

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-13 GC WK2 with 177K. Lifetime Maximum Care warranty keeps the vehicle on the ventilator. Otherwise, we would have sold her for a more reliable car. After approx. 8K of recent covered repairs, we decided to "run her into the ground" compliments of Chrysler Group LLC. A rebuild of the worn suspension is now being planned, so we can have a comfortable cross-country drive.
 

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2015 Limited 3.6 4x4. 213,000 miles bought new. 3 Steering Racks, 3 Radiators, rear main seal, passenger side lifters and rockers, 5 fan motors, blend doors, driver's seat lumbar replaced, etc. Lifetime MaxCare for the win there. Going to drive it until they have to buy it.
 

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Just bought my 6th Jeep, a 2018 Grand Cherokee QT2. It has 97K miles and will be flat-towed behind our first motorhome...and is now our ONLY vehicle (other than MH) for the time being. We sold/traded 2017 Ford F350 dually, a 2013 Ford Focus, 2022 Hyundai Elantra Hybrid (wouldn't have bought that one had we known the MH was in our future)...too bad as I really loved that car.

It doesn't look as if there are any significant maintenance requirements for a good number of more miles other than inspections...and the dealer we purchased from assures me they checked it all over. Brakes and oil are both good...tires will be only thing needing soon replacement...I give them 10K max. miles remaining.

So, having been out of Jeep for quite a few years, what type of lifespan can I expect from the timing chain/belt? Is the 3.6L engine an interference fit? Does it use a timing chain or belt? I'd like to think I will run this Jeep into the ground, but know that that is unlikely. I trade way too often, but that isn't in my plans for some years yet.

I'd like to try to get a service manual, but I'm showing these are out of stock (at least at the moment). I'd prefer a paper copy if they exist, but will go digital if necessary...anyone know what my options are? My immediate need will be to remove the front plastics so I can install a towing baseplate, but there are good Youtube videos on this, so no worries there.

If there are any big do's/don't, please share. I'll be spending a lot of time going through posts, but while I know my 97K won't win any awards, I hope I still have enough years left on this planet to be able to do some bragging down the road.
 

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Welcome back

The 3.6 uses a couple timing chains and they are not usually a problem. The transfer case likes the tires about the same wear and diameter on all four corners. Careful don't crack the oil fill tube when changing oil. Most serious problems are with the rocker arms, heads, and oil cooler leaks. The 3.6 is complex, there are several reports of 300,000 plus miles. They have better than the average reliability but they are not known to be as strong as dirt or as durable as the 5.7. There are a lot of them out there so you will hear about a lot of problems, most by far, have no problems. Most should run over 200,000 miles.
 

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The 3.6 uses a couple timing chains and they are not usually a problem. The transfer case likes the tires about the same wear and diameter on all four corners. Careful don't crack the oil fill tube when changing oil. Most serious problems are with the rocker arms, heads, and oil cooler leaks. The 3.6 is complex, there are several reports of 300,000 plus miles. They have better than the average reliability but they are not known to be as strong as dirt or as durable as the 5.7. There are a lot of them out there so you will hear about a lot of problems, most by far, have no problems. Most should run over 200,000 miles.
Great info...thanks. So, can you say if this engine is an interference fit...so that if the timing chain lets go/fails, can the pistons hit the valves, causing damage?
 

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The 3.6 uses a couple timing chains and they are not usually a problem. The transfer case likes the tires about the same wear and diameter on all four corners. Careful don't crack the oil fill tube when changing oil. Most serious problems are with the rocker arms, heads, and oil cooler leaks. The 3.6 is complex, there are several reports of 300,000 plus miles. They have better than the average reliability but they are not known to be as strong as dirt or as durable as the 5.7. There are a lot of them out there so you will hear about a lot of problems, most by far, have no problems. Most should run over 200,000 miles.
I just understood what you meant by "The transfer case likes the tires about the same wear and diameter on all four corners."...meaning that if I have say several thousand miles on the tires and have to replace one, I better plan on replacing ALL 4 at the same time? The one thing I hate about AWD vehicles. :censored:
 

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My Reality Check Bounced
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It is an interference fit with double overhead cams on each bank and variable valve timing. Two timing chains, 4 cams. I'd be much more worried about a rocker roller bearing freezing leading to rocker wear and eventually cam wear and then the debris grinding away the bearings and other internal parts.... similar to any engine today that use roller bearing type lifters (which is most of them). Early sign is a misfire so treat it seriously because its a relatively simple fix when caught early.

The QT2 transfer case is direct rear wheel drive.The front axle is powered via clutches that provide full time 4 wheel traction while slipping to relieve drive train windup. More effective than open diff transfer cases but not as tolerant of tire size differences. Tires different enough in size will always be winding up the drivetrain. At highway speeds the clutches can heat up to the point the clutch plates warp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #253 ·
@ColdCase gave you a great list of areas to look out for (for my money, he’s the resident WK2 expert here). The only thing I’d add is the oil filter housing, which is made from plastic and can make the engine do a passable impression of the Exxon Valdez. There is a metal version from Dorman available, I believe (ours was replaced under warranty with another Mopar plastic piece).

We’ve also had to replace the power steering rack (warranty), oil pressure switch (warranty), and the lug nuts (not warranty). But I don’t know if ours is an outlier, or if these are areas to keep an eye on. The weirdest one was the lug nuts distorting on the hubs - I’ve owned Hondas since 1993, and I’ve never had that issue before. Also, searching Google for “distorted nuts” brings up some unhelpful… or maybe, unrelated… search results.

Good luck with your new ride!
 

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2014 Limited 4x4 198,000 miles. No major issues. Replaced radiator at 160,000 but was damaged from road debris. Dealer maintained up to 120,000 when I got it and I’ve maintained it by the book since then.
 

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It is an interference fit with double overhead cams on each bank and variable valve timing. Two timing chains, 4 cams. I'd be much more worried about a rocker roller bearing freezing leading to rocker wear and eventually cam wear and then the debris grinding away the bearings and other internal parts.... similar to any engine today that use roller bearing type lifters (which is most of them). Early sign is a misfire so treat it seriously because its a relatively simple fix when caught early.

The QT2 transfer case is direct rear wheel drive.The front axle is powered via clutches that provide full time 4 wheel traction while slipping to relieve drive train windup. More effective than open diff transfer cases but not as tolerant of tire size differences. Tires different enough in size will always be winding up the drivetrain. At highway speeds the clutches can heat up to the point the clutch plates warp.
Given your comments about the 3.6L, do frequent oil changes help? Say, synthetic oil and factory weight, 5K mileage intervals?
 

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My Reality Check Bounced
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Doesn't seem to help, seems to be a manufacturing defect.
 

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2001 WJ Limited with 4.7 PowerTech V8. 337,594 miles at time of sale. Accidentally killed er by installing "upgrade" Ebay fuel injectors that ended up leaking fuel into cylinders. Drove it that way trying to diagnose until I found out the problem, unfortunately too late. Oil had been diluted. Did oil change, but Jeep threw a rod a couple days later. Broke my heart! 😪
Speedometer Car Odometer Tachometer Gauge

Light Gauge Measuring instrument Speedometer Trip computer
 

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I now own a 2005 GC 4.7 that will turn 186,000 next week. Runs flawlessly :cool:; will never put Ebay injectors in this baby! :sneaky: Use 5w-30 full syn oil and change religiously every 3,000m/3mon or don't drive it if I can't. Plan on takin 400k+

Automotive parking light Car Wheel Tire Plant
 

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I am almost at 130K 2014 3.0...... still going perfect. Just received notice of recall to replace EGR and maybe intake when parts available. I do not have AEM.
Speedometer Odometer Trip computer Gauge Tachometer

I am at 169,584 now and STILL going perfect. Stoopid dealer techs installed AEM when she was in shop for EGR cooler replacement even though she had 135K on the clock.....
Was rearended recently - took full force in the trailer hitch, bent the hitch, broke a weld, damaged the bumper cover and hitch cover but otherwise the Jeep is strong.
 
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